I agree. I havent started a build to find myself out of budget and have the car sit forever till I can get back to it. If it runs drive it. You wont break any speed records but you can enjoy the car as is until your ready. You can though grab the motor and take your time gathering parts little by little as the budget allows. it could be easier on the wallet that way as long as you have a place to store everything.
What is the cheapest possible ls swap?
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I agree. I havent started a build to find myself out of budget and have the car sit forever till I can get back to it. If it runs drive it. You wont break any speed records but you can enjoy the car as is until your ready. You can though grab the motor and take your time gathering parts little by little as the budget allows. it could be easier on the wallet that way as long as you have a place to store everything.
^ The OP asked for the cheapest solution, it can be done much cheaper than what you've listed.
You pay an extra $100 for the "2 year warranty" and you bring the junk motor back and swap it for another one you find in the lot.
People actually do this in Dallas. I've seen it. I didn't believe it, but I saw it.
Although we are missing details on your car, transmission, etc....... if I were in your shoes, here is what I would do:
Rework your own harness and get a mail order tune. You should be able to get a conservative tune with VATS removed for under $200.
Get the ebay ls/sbc motor mount adapters for around $30.
For the fuel system, get a GN fuel sender, walbro fuel pump, and pushlock fuel line and fittings. fuel system should be around $300 total.
Elongate the T/C holes on the 5.3/4.8 flexplate and get the $25 ls flexplate spacer/adapter. A th350/th400/200r4 torque converter will bolt up.
Stock f-body ls1 exhaust manifolds will clear the gbody frame. Should be able to find a pair for around $30-40.
The gm muscle car oil pan is the most cost effective pan on the market at around $150.
Of course you will still need misc hoses, wires, fluids, relays....etc. much of it can be sourced at the salvage yard.
The key to keeping it cheap us to get a complete pullout with wiring harness, accesories, maf sensor, all bolts, etc.
Rework your own harness and get a mail order tune. You should be able to get a conservative tune with VATS removed for under $200.
Get the ebay ls/sbc motor mount adapters for around $30.
For the fuel system, get a GN fuel sender, walbro fuel pump, and pushlock fuel line and fittings. fuel system should be around $300 total.
Elongate the T/C holes on the 5.3/4.8 flexplate and get the $25 ls flexplate spacer/adapter. A th350/th400/200r4 torque converter will bolt up.
Stock f-body ls1 exhaust manifolds will clear the gbody frame. Should be able to find a pair for around $30-40.
The gm muscle car oil pan is the most cost effective pan on the market at around $150.
Of course you will still need misc hoses, wires, fluids, relays....etc. much of it can be sourced at the salvage yard.
The key to keeping it cheap us to get a complete pullout with wiring harness, accesories, maf sensor, all bolts, etc.
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As far as a cheap swap you won't know how cheap or expensive it was until the car is back on the road.
i don't understand? i thought gto oil pans were front sump pans. and our cars need a rear sump pan.
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