Also i am going to document the whole thing with a go pro on my head so if there is any others out there that have no clue what they are doing, they can learn from me
What you need to 350 swap
- Thread starter Matthew Goeke
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i know where to find it, but on the video i saw the guy got his for only 1500! do you know the difference between the 240hp vs 290? is it something simple like a camshaft or what
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bp3834ct1 thats the one i bought although my build requires 92 octane anything lower and it doesnt sound right
That motor is also a 2 piece rear main seal so wouldnt require a flexplate change and yes probably cam or heads or both
Both the TH200 metric and the TH350 has the Nevada shaped pan, the metric has 11 bolts and the TH350 has 13 IIRC. Also, the modulator. TH200 won't have one. All it does on the TH350 is control the part throttle shift points based on engine load by vacuum. There should either be a little vacuum tee or a nipple coming out of the intake, or a nub on the back side of the BASE PLATE of the quadrajet (your carb) that the metal line
with a few inches of rubber on each end, for flexibility, runs to. As others have said, all your 305 stuff will swap onto a two piece rear main seal 350. I don't know about the intake, but those are cheap enough. You can buy em at the parts store off the shelf. Make sure it's for the right year. Your 305 is a two piece rear main seal engine. IN the 80s gm switched to the one piece design, as well as a myriad of other internal and external changes that make most parts aside from stuff like pistons and maybe heads not interchangeable. Referring to the rear main seal is just an easy way to identify them from one another without looking up the block id numbers. ex.: "Oh, it's a two piece rear main seal block? It's 1968-1979" or whatever. Get what I'm sayin? Also, if your trans does say metric on the pan and doesn't have a modulator, just do yourself a favor and get a good used chevy pattern short shaft th350, 6" tailshaft is the short one for the midsize cars, 9" for trucks, and full size and so on, and put it in there. Drops right in, 100%. Maybe spend the extra 60 bucks and learn how to put a shift kit in there. Do it right, at WOT it'll bark the tires going into 2nd even with the 290hp motor. Hotrod tested one a while back and made 287 flywheel hp with it, so I'd say the numbers are pretty accurate. You'll need a new torque converter too, the TH200 one won't swap over if I remember correctly, especially if your TC has the lockup feature. Good used ones are on CL all day for cheap, but you never really know what you'll get. Could've been sitting around for any amount of time open to the elements, bugs, mice (i've seen it) dust, moisture, you name it, could've gotten in the tc and ruined it forever. Don't get over a 2000 stall, as you probably have something like 2.41 gears in the back. It'd make the car drive like *ss. Stock IIRC is 1100-1300rpm stall speed. Don't rush into things just yet, just get the car driving and keep it alive with regular oil changes with the Zinc/ZDDP additive every 3,000 miles, check the fluids at least once a day for the first few long drives, then if no signs of leaking or weirdness, you can back off to weekly inspections.
with a few inches of rubber on each end, for flexibility, runs to. As others have said, all your 305 stuff will swap onto a two piece rear main seal 350. I don't know about the intake, but those are cheap enough. You can buy em at the parts store off the shelf. Make sure it's for the right year. Your 305 is a two piece rear main seal engine. IN the 80s gm switched to the one piece design, as well as a myriad of other internal and external changes that make most parts aside from stuff like pistons and maybe heads not interchangeable. Referring to the rear main seal is just an easy way to identify them from one another without looking up the block id numbers. ex.: "Oh, it's a two piece rear main seal block? It's 1968-1979" or whatever. Get what I'm sayin? Also, if your trans does say metric on the pan and doesn't have a modulator, just do yourself a favor and get a good used chevy pattern short shaft th350, 6" tailshaft is the short one for the midsize cars, 9" for trucks, and full size and so on, and put it in there. Drops right in, 100%. Maybe spend the extra 60 bucks and learn how to put a shift kit in there. Do it right, at WOT it'll bark the tires going into 2nd even with the 290hp motor. Hotrod tested one a while back and made 287 flywheel hp with it, so I'd say the numbers are pretty accurate. You'll need a new torque converter too, the TH200 one won't swap over if I remember correctly, especially if your TC has the lockup feature. Good used ones are on CL all day for cheap, but you never really know what you'll get. Could've been sitting around for any amount of time open to the elements, bugs, mice (i've seen it) dust, moisture, you name it, could've gotten in the tc and ruined it forever. Don't get over a 2000 stall, as you probably have something like 2.41 gears in the back. It'd make the car drive like *ss. Stock IIRC is 1100-1300rpm stall speed. Don't rush into things just yet, just get the car driving and keep it alive with regular oil changes with the Zinc/ZDDP additive every 3,000 miles, check the fluids at least once a day for the first few long drives, then if no signs of leaking or weirdness, you can back off to weekly inspections.
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I don't think that engine has been available new for $1500 for the last 10 years.
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