MALIBU What’s happening here now

[Dezimade]

Looks like whoever installed the parts missed a seal or something. As the compressor builds pressure(sometimes too much if overcharged and cut off switch bypassed) and heat increases in the engine compartment and all components any possible weak area in the system will leak or blow out and lose all the refrigerant.

This is great. Now I can break it to him and watch his ego squirm and say it’s the part that it only came with what I gave him. Is there O rings or something I can give him to prevent this. Other then that is it connected properly.

I read about double o rings etc. or I’m just talking out of my inexperienced butt. Des

 

[383_StealthRam]

Get the proper sealing washer kit, watch the videos and then take it to a local shop that can make the repairs, evacuate and re-charge the system. That seal used on the back of the compressor is not correctly installed.

The original R4 compressors from the R12 era used to use captured o-rings, but the current replacement R4 compressors (intended for R134a) use sealing washers, and need to be properly selected for use.

Amazon.com

 

[383_StealthRam]

Also.....while the system is discharged and being repaired for the compressor seals, order this kit and have them fix up that High Pressure cutout switch in the back of the compressor as well.
The silicone sealed wires might be ok as a temporary fix, but I wouldn't trust it long term.

Amazon.com

 

[Dezimade]

Get the proper sealing washer kit, watch the videos and then take it to a local shop that can make the repairs, evacuate and re-charge the system. That seal used on the back of the compressor is not correctly installed.

The original R4 compressors from the R12 era used to use captured o-rings, but the current replacement R4 compressors (intended for R134a) use sealing washers, and need to be properly selected for use.

Amazon.com

View attachment 242394

Great education thank you so much. Look at these words I found. Is this pretty much what the kit is about. ?

 

[Dezimade]

Also.....while the system is discharged and being repaired for the compressor seals, order this kit and have them fix up that High Pressure cutout switch in the back of the compressor as well.
The silicone sealed wires might be ok as a temporary fix, but I wouldn't trust it long term.

Amazon.com

View attachment 242397

So that can be done after the seals. Depending when it arrives? And you know I got the dule fan set up that cuts out due to the heat. I was informed that a toggle switch in cabin will have to be utilized?
Can you talk about this air cut off as far as the cold case fan set up. ? The education in great and Im appreciative Thanks man Dez

 

[Dezimade]

Also.....while the system is discharged and being repaired for the compressor seals, order this kit and have them fix up that High Pressure cutout switch in the back of the compressor as well.
The silicone sealed wires might be ok as a temporary fix, but I wouldn't trust it long term.

Amazon.com

View attachment 242397

ALSO!! Should I ignore this ?

 

[Ribbedroof]

R4 compressors use many different seals at the hose manifold so I have two shallow receiver cavities one Some a deep and a shallow. Additionally the first picture it does not appear that the bolt is fully tied it appears that perhaps the bolt is bottomed out in the threads and allowing a leak at the hose manifold seals

 

[Dezimade]

Or four compressors use many different seals at the hose manifold so I have two shallow receiver cavities one Some a deep and a shallow. Additionally the first picture it does not appear that the bolt is fully tied it appears that perhaps the bolt is bottomed out in the threads and allowing a leak at the hose manifold seals

Sure thing. The videos below really sum this up. I thank you sir!! Hot here in bean town. As I head to Florida. I need the whip to be cold. Thanks. Ps does it look screwed up? As I don’t know the lingo. Bottomed out. Etc.

 

[Ribbedroof]

In the picture you posted I think it was the first of four in one post, the bulkhead does not look like it’s tied against the aluminum that makes up the fittings on the ends of the hoses it is possible that with a mismatch compressor and hose assembly or improper seals that the bolt could bottom out in the threads before the fitting is adequately tight. I would start by evacuating the system removing that bulb and making sure that the correct seals are in place on the compressor and then Reattaching the hoses and ensuring that the bold titans bully where there’s no movement left on the lines. Hard to describe being this far away

 

[383_StealthRam]

So that can be done after the seals. Depending when it arrives? And you know I got the dule fan set up that cuts out due to the heat. I was informed that a toggle switch in cabin will have to be utilized?
Can you talk about this air cut off as far as the cold case fan set up. ? The education in great and Im appreciative Thanks man Dez

No, fix it at the same time as the seals because replacing it will need to the refrigerant to be evacuated out again so it should be done at the same time the system is "open" for the compressor sealing washers.

As for the Electric Fans...Trinary switch is the way to go imho.

Here is one example of using binary/trinary switches for AC and Electric Fans, there are many of them, search YouTube for Trinary Switch.

The switch in the back of your compressor is for safety that would interrupt the compressor clutch if the pressure goes to high in the system, which could very well happen if your FANS are not on at all with the AC working. Not enough air over the condenser (in front of your radiator) will cause high pressures in the system. If you go with trinary switch, then you don't need that broken switch in the back of your compressor anymore as it will take care of the over pressure protection for the compressor, as well as the fans to come one with AC pressure. In effect you will end up with two ways that the electric fans turn on, with engine temperature and ac hi pressure, ITOW only when the temps or pressures require it.

The trinary switch is typically installed on an existing High Pressure port fitting on the system, I see you have the r134a port (black cap) on your line into the evaporator. You really can't use that unless you get a tee fitting, or some other way to use it for both your service port, and the trinary switch port. I have something like this on mine, but it's a different port thread size so not sure what's available in a TEE for your situation. This is why I strongly suggest you take it to an expert as there are a lot of variations on threads, fittings, etc that are too long to list.

When you take it to an AC shop that knows what they're doing, which I highly recommend (no offense to you or your skills) they can easily add in a port for the trinary switch in various ways, then wire it up like described in the video(s).

Otherwise, you can just go with toggle switch that you always have to remember put on with the AC, or wire it up so when you're AC is turned on it will enable the fans to run automatically just like they do when the engine temp switch does.

I don't particularly like toggle switches for this or that, and prefer things to work on their own like OEM setups, but that's me. My buddy didn't listen to me and loves his toggle switches till he came out one day and had a DEAD battery.

Good luck with your repairs, and finding a local AC service shop to help you get it going again.