Wheel Hop

[gharris79]

Aftermarket rear control arms will help. Check out umi, spohn, hotchkis, hrpartsnstuff, bmr, sc&c, Iceman racing, etc they all make some

Any idea what new upper and lower arms and Bilsteins would cost?

 

[UMI Performance]

Aftermarket rear control arms will help. Check out umi, spohn, hotchkis, hrpartsnstuff, bmr, sc&c, Iceman racing, etc they all make some

Any idea what new upper and lower arms and Bilsteins would cost?

Are you looking for rear Bilsteins and rear control arm kit? Non-adjustable control arms?

Thanks!

 

[gharris79]

Aftermarket rear control arms will help. Check out umi, spohn, hotchkis, hrpartsnstuff, bmr, sc&c, Iceman racing, etc they all make some

Any idea what new upper and lower arms and Bilsteins would cost?

Are you looking for rear Bilsteins and rear control arm kit? Non-adjustable control arms?

Thanks!

I'm looking for a kit. I never really thought about going with adjustable or not and not sure of which direction to go.

 

[gharris79]

I think i'll just run non adjustable arms

 

[rccktmn2]

First off the GM 4 link rear suspension is not designed correctly to plant the rear tires and eliminate the wheel hop. If you take the upper rear control arms and the angle they are on they never cross the parallel line of the lower control arms. If you put in no hop bars or something similar it will raise the upper control arms making them intersect the parallel line of the lower control arms and essentially trying to pick up the front of the car on take off eliminating wheel hop.

 

[gharris79]

First off the GM 4 link rear suspension is not designed correctly to plant the rear tires and eliminate the wheel hop. If you take the upper rear control arms and the angle they are on they never cross the parallel line of the lower control arms. If you put in no hop bars or something similar it will raise the upper control arms making them intersect the parallel line of the lower control arms and essentially trying to pick up the front of the car on take off eliminating wheel hop.

Yeah i heard of those. The guy at the perfomance shop here was saying that's what I should do.

 

[Chris Van]

First off the GM 4 link rear suspension is not designed correctly to plant the rear tires and eliminate the wheel hop. If you take the upper rear control arms and the angle they are on they never cross the parallel line of the lower control arms. If you put in no hop bars or something similar it will raise the upper control arms making them intersect the parallel line of the lower control arms and essentially trying to pick up the front of the car on take off eliminating wheel hop.

I know what you are saying sounds logical geometry wise anyway.... but from my personal on track experience I have to disagree. The no hop bars did not work for me. The car was inconsistent as hell with the no hop bars and rode like sh*t too. I took them off, with no other changes, and the car worked again.
My suggestion to the question first would be to put new shocks on the rear. The rubber bushings couldn't be helping either. My car 60 foots in the low 1.40's with the stock geometry suspension setup. Over time I did add adjustable upper and lowers but they are set exactly like the stock ones that came off. Only difference being that they are now solid verses having bushings in them. I am also running a pair of $20 dollar gabriel shocks.

 

[pontiacgp]

as far as I know wheel hop is created by the wheels moving forward and back...with leaf suspension the axle rolls forward twisting the leaf and then it snaps back causing wheel hop. The G body has solid links so unless the bushings are shot and/or the shocks are shot there is no reason for wheel hop on a G body. I know guys with GN's with stock set up in the rear do 11 sec runs and they have no wheel hop

 

[gharris79]

I'm parking the car for the winter at the end of next week. I plan to get swap in my 8.5" once I get a chance through the winter. I'll get a better look at my set up then and decide on which direction to go.

 

[Black Sheep]

Different horsepower levels require different suspension setups. Lower power cars need more help to "hit" the tires and plant them, this is where the no-hop bars help. High power cars already hit the tires hard and don't need help.

There is no "silver bullet" that will work for all cars and all power levels. All cars are different and will react differently to changes. Trial and error.