Which engine would YOU choose? (update)

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A couple suggestions I have on whatever motor you choose. The big key in my opinion of any motor is in the heads. Not necisarely big runner volume either( just efficant). Do yor research a simple head swap can up compression and flow. around 10 to 1 compression. A mild cam around 220 /230 duration or Smaller. Dual plane intake and headers. 300 -350 hp should be easy to obtaine on most gm v8.i like torqu over hp on the street. Pick a cam that's peak rpm is 6000 or less. If you outline what you want on paper first(to keep you on track). Do research, hit up swap meets and be patient. You don't have to spend a fortune. To have a fun car.
 
hurst1979olds said:
Clone TIE Pilot said:
DRIVEN said:
I keep seeing on this forum and even in magazines how LSs are so cheap and plentiful. I know that my local regular wrecking yards have them, at a premium price. I've never ever seen one in a PickNPull and when they do (rarely) show up on CL they are 2K and up. I can't argue with the factory power numbers and the potential, but I think they are one of the least visually appealing engines ever made in stock form. It takes quite a bit of extra money to make one look pretty in an otherwise nice engine bay. Maybe that's the tradeoff for having plentiful rust free cars in my part of the world -- less availability of LS engine donors.
...Just my unsolicited view. Tangent concluded.

I have to agree with you on this. I live in NJ and everyone wants top prices for junkyard LS motors with no guarantees on them. Then in the catalogs and online I see LS parts prices are 3 times more than similar parts for SBCs which is why I strach my head when I hear how cheap LS motors supposedly are.
It's the same where I live. I've only found them on eBay for around 4k.

Look for a LM4, LM7, LH6, etc. They are 5.3l out of trucks and suvs. They are cheap compared to an LS, under $4000. Ive been looking into a swap for the wifes camaro.

I don't know were in NJ you live but If your close to allentown, pa or Pennsburg, pa. Go to Harrys U Pull-it. I called about a price for an engine out of a truck. They only want about $500 complete with harness and computer.....If you can find one there.[/quote]

I have seen billboards for Harry's on the way to Dorney Park in Allentown. Usually a yard will give you a cheaper quote on the phone than in person, there's always an upcharge of some kind.
 
u pull it yards will always be cheaper cause u have to pull it. I got my lm7 short block for $113 with a core( i gave them an old ford 5.0 i had laying around) but I had to pull it out of the truck myself. They are starting to show up in many u pull it yards so keep an eye out trucks/suv/vans and if its around a half off sale, all the better.
 
i see where you mentioned a tbi set up. The motor thats in my cutlass, I orginally built and installed in a 92 chevy 1500 4 wheel drive. It had great throttle response. if you go that route i learned quit a bit. The biggist key i found was run a cam with good vaccume and get a chip built for your specific application. I used brian harris at tbichips.com. You can get performance out of them trust me. The weekend i got my truck running a gave a 01 ws6 all he wanted. lol
 
pontiacgp said:
DRIVEN said:
The earlier Fbodys were canted. The bellhousing was drilled so that the transmission would lean toward the driver. I think that it was mainly to position the shifter closer to the driver. The mounting pad for the transmission mount was also at an angle. You could use these transmissions on a "regular" bellhousing and just shim under one side of the mount. Make sense? Those were all non-WC transmissions -- if that matters to you at all.

I didn't need to shim the transmission mount. The transmission does lean towards the driver but it sits flat on the mount. You were right on with it working well with a 3.08 rear
I need a little clarification.
According to a chart I found on the internet, a T5 can bolt up to a Muncie/Saginaw bellhousing. Steve, you say your transmission leans toward you. Did you use a T5-specific bellhousing that has the mounting pattern rotated counterclockwise or is that just the nature of the shifter itself? I would like to have my transmission centered so I can use my center console with limited modification.
Also, I found a Buick V6 bellhousing for 18 bucks:
http://southbend.craigslist.org/pts/3498189739.html
With this bellhousing, am I limited to a smaller diameter clutch?
 
You should be able to use a 10.4" clutch set under that bellhousing with an Fbody T5. Bellhousings that will clear an 11" clutch in a passenger car application are less common. You might be money ahead to buy a scattershield if a 10.4" isn't enough.
 
I'd rather use a larger clutch just for the sake of "durability" even though I don't have a strong engine. I have been able to locate some actual scattershields through Speedway, but for 18 bucks I figured I might as well look into it. :roll:
 
if you want to be original. look for a range rover 3.9 efi. wich arent that expensive. change the valve covers to buick, put an edelbrock carb on it, improve the ignition with mallory or msd. en there you have it: an all aluminum buick v8, lighter than the ls block, with cheap parts (at least in europe) and 180BHP. ad a little cam and you get 230HP. ad a turbocharger and you get close to 270HP. turbocharge it and you get can get 500HP.
u can adapt it to an american 5speed or you can use a TVR/MG 5 speed from one of their v8 sports cars.
i have a 270page book on how to build performance rover v8's but with buick valve covers everyone thinks its a buick 215
if i where u i would go for that, it's exatcley want you want but the casting says "british leyland UK"" and internal parts like pistons, and bearings are only availible at land rover/ british car shops or online from uk webshops (and yes they deliver worldwide)
BerniePosey-CB.jpg

and ofcourse, originality always comes with more time and money than a chevy v8
 
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