Which engine would YOU choose? (update)
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Re: Which engine would YOU choose? (poll closed)
If you decide to go with any other engine besides the LS and still want fuel injection. Pick up a Fast EZ-EFI or a MSD Atomic EFI. They are not cheap but man what a difference over a carburetor. Power, Throttle Response, cruising, everything about them. I got the Fast setup on my car.
If you decide to go with any other engine besides the LS and still want fuel injection. Pick up a Fast EZ-EFI or a MSD Atomic EFI. They are not cheap but man what a difference over a carburetor. Power, Throttle Response, cruising, everything about them. I got the Fast setup on my car.
Re: Which engine would YOU choose? (poll closed)
Lt1swap.com is what i used to make my LS truck harness work.
Read up on fuel pressures needed, your stock stuff wont even be close.
Ive got about $700 into my sumped tank, bosch 044 pump, aeromotive regulator, -08an supply and return fuel lines, and a bunch of an fittings.
Ls you will need to buy or make motor mounts. You will need an crack spacer if you want to ryn an old school trans.
Dont get me wrong but its alot of work but the reward is there.
Just plan your project and spend your money once.
Good luck.
Lt1swap.com is what i used to make my LS truck harness work.
Read up on fuel pressures needed, your stock stuff wont even be close.
Ive got about $700 into my sumped tank, bosch 044 pump, aeromotive regulator, -08an supply and return fuel lines, and a bunch of an fittings.
Ls you will need to buy or make motor mounts. You will need an crack spacer if you want to ryn an old school trans.
Dont get me wrong but its alot of work but the reward is there.
Just plan your project and spend your money once.
Good luck.
Buick 350 is a safe choice. The WC 5speed was available in the '93 S-10. All the earlier S-10s and Fbodys were non-WC. The S-10 has a forward shifter position that works good with bench seat cars but you will need to machine the input shaft of use a spacer. It also has the std. GM manual transmission bolt pattern so it'll work with pretty much any bellhousing. Also, they have a pretty deep first gear that works well with 3.08 or 3.23 gears so you can still get the benefit of good highway mpg.
I've seen and read that some T-5s were rotated 17 degrees for linkage geometry. If I'm using a hydraulic clutch, does it really matter if I don't have it rotated or is the shifter going to end up angled 17 degrees to the side if I mount it to a regular G-Body bellhousing?
The earlier Fbodys were canted. The bellhousing was drilled so that the transmission would lean toward the driver. I think that it was mainly to position the shifter closer to the driver. The mounting pad for the transmission mount was also at an angle. You could use these transmissions on a "regular" bellhousing and just shim under one side of the mount. Make sense? Those were all non-WC transmissions -- if that matters to you at all.
Alright, yea I get ya. Yea, whether or not it's a WC kinda matters. I know that's the tougher one and even though I'm not building a monster I still don't mind having extra strength factored in. Just a little re-assurance so I feel better about beating on it once in a while. That's where my head's at now anyway.
i would put a buick 3.8 and you can turbo or supercharge it to make the power you want.
and my reason for picking that motor is simple. i like my chev cars to have chevy motors and i like my buick cars to be buick powered and olds olds and ponco ponco
and my reason for picking that motor is simple. i like my chev cars to have chevy motors and i like my buick cars to be buick powered and olds olds and ponco ponco
I sourced my WC T-5 from an '88 IROC-Z, so if you're set on a WC T-5 set up for a bucket seated car that's one to look out for.
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