Which to choose? 200r4/TH350/700r4

[Forsaken502]

Hey guys,

I'm trying to decide what transmission to go with. Right now I have 2 200-R4's (one in my 85 Regal, another from an 84 GP), 2 TH350's (1 unknown and one from a 76ish GMC 3/4 ton 2wd pickup), and one 700-R4 (unknown origin).

I will be rebuilding whatever one I decide to use. I was leaning towards the 700-R4 because I thought it was vastly superior to the 200-R4, which I guess isn't true. I don't want to go with the TH350 because it will see some highway driving and will hopefully eventually have a Posi with 3.73 or higher gears (hopefully 4.11's), so the overdrive will be nice. Advantages of using the 200-R4 is that I have a spare crossmember that I can modify for dual exhaust, all the linkage will match up, no shorting the drive shaft, can use the same kickdown cable, etc.

Just looking for peoples input. I'm hoping to trade the rest of the transmissions to a guy who owns a transmission shop. My mechanic just sold him a 7.5 eaton posi so I'm hoping he will trade for + install the posi and a set of 4.11's for the other transmissions.



Also, what speed of stall converter do you guys figure I should look for. It's a 305 SBC with a Edelbrock S.P-2 intake, Holley 4 barrel, a mild cam, and 305 HO heads.

I was planning on swapping out for a 350, but I decided to keep the 305 and trying to build some decent power out of it, just the road less travelled. And I would love to see the look on some guys face when his 350 get walked on by a measly 305.

Future upgrades hope to include a set of headers, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Accel HEI ignition, and a set of heads (unknown what brand right now). I was thinking some where around a 2200 rpm stall, but dont have much experience in choosing the correct stall speed.

 

[Blake442]

200-4R hands down is a far better choice than the 700-R4...

 

[n33no]

200-4r... You have all the parts to bolt it up. You pretty much answered your own question.

 

[megaladon6]

and again on the 200. for stall on a basically stock engine i'd stay under 2k. honestly i don't think i'd bother at all, stock is probably 16-1800, maybe a touch higher with the extra power you now have.

 

[jrm81bu]

200-4R hands down is a far better choice than the 700-R4...

I resent that :lol: .
However, if I hadn't already had a 700r4 from bowtieoverdrives then I would go with the 2004r. Just simpler. And in my case either one would have to be built.

 

[G_Body_Enthusiast]

gonna go with.....2004r. yeah a real shocker. it drops right in, bolts right in and can be built if need be to perform quite well. but either can be built though so there's no real advantage though.

i prefer it over the 700r4 because of the smaller RPM drop between gear shifts in the 2004r. yeah you can get faster launches with a 700r4 but the RPM drop if its bad enough will negate any boost you get in the 60 foot.

better off running a taller gear with a 200-4r instead.

i have no idea what your app is so im throwing that out there for you to consider.

and yeah shortening the drive shaft, the crossmember issue and stuff really turn me off with 700-r4's. just seems like more work than you really oughta put into your transmission unless you really have to have that transmission in the car.

 

[3rdgentug]

with the 200r4 do you have to cut the driveshaft or modify the trans x member?

 

[Forsaken502]

nope, I do beleive the 200-R4's came stock in most the Gbody's, even the Grand National. Some may have came with the 3-speed TH200. I'm not sure if anything needs to be modified, but I don't think so. Someone on here will be able to tell you more.

 

[Blake442]

with the 200r4 do you have to cut the driveshaft or modify the trans x member?

The 200-4R was offered as original equipment in G-bodies, though they do have a different crossmember than the THM-200 and the TH-350.
The driveshaft length is the same.

The 700-R4 requires a different crossmember as well, and shortening of the driveshaft.

 

[383Camino]

I got a 200-4R built for my 383 Camino and I love it. Fell into place (after moving X member back six inches. Knocks the 4.10s down to 2.74s. 3,000 lock-up converter and I'm good to go.