why do stock carbs have a computer plug

[snotrocket71]

We may dissagree on the computer stuff, but I certainly agree with you on the Edelbrock thing!

To each his own, either way you cant go wrong i'm just not that familiar with computer controlled carbs is all. although it makes for a damn cool conversation piece to be running pretty much a step below fuel injection and running pretty hard ar that.

 

[86_olds]

really is their will any 4 barrel edelbrock carb bolt up to the intake ?

No any Edelbrock carb will not bolt right up to the intake.

Edelbrock Remanufactured Q-Jet Carburetors will bolt right up.

But the Edelbrock carb you see (AFB style) in stores or commercials will not.

You will need an adapter plate to turn your spread bore intake into a square bore.



The Electric plug control the main metering circuit and is controled by the computer that sends out signals based on input from the oxygen sensor.

If you disconnect it you will run rich.

Keep in mind there are different versions of the Electric Q-jet depending on the car and where it was built.

Some do effect the trans lock up and some do not.



If you put a non electric/computer controled carb on the car you should also put a non computer controled distributor in as well.

A distributor with a vaccum advance. As well as a lock up kit for your trans.


Your best bet is, if it is running fine leave it alone. If you are having problems with it have if rebuilt.

If you want something fancy then a high performance Q-jet will cost you 400-500 dollars

yeah i think ur right bro actually i got my carb rebuilt like 5 months ago and runs awesome just thought about getting rid off computers and emissions crap but might just leave as is

 

[DoubleV]

86 Olds, you can retain the CCC system and still eliminate almost all of the smog crap ( expecially that stupid A.I.R. system junk ). If you want specifics, let me know.

 

[DoubleV]

I got a PM about the smog removal junk, so I'll just post the info here.

Generally, this is what you need to retain to keep the CCC system intact. I'm refering to the stuff under the hood and on a Cutlass with 307;

1) The DPS/MAP sensor. This is the small rectangular box bolted to the passenger side inner fender well. The hard plastic line coming off this needs to be plugged into a manifold vacuum source ( any will do ).

2) The temperature sensor on the front drivers side on the intake manifold.

3) The EGR valve. Technically you don't NEED it, but the computer is calibrated for use with EGR, so keep it on or you'll get part throttle pinging.

4) The EGR/RVB/ILC solenoid. This is the black box located on the rear drivers side valve cover. This controls the EGR ( and the Rear Vacuum Break and the Idle Load Compensator ). You can ditch all the vac lines going to this black box except the 2 for the EGR valve.

5) Of course you need the 2 plugs that go to the carb ( MC solenoid and TPS ).

6) You need the 4 prong plug that goes to the distributor. This is what controls the timing advance.

7) O2 sensor in passenger side exhaust manifold.

Everything else can be eliminated. This includes;

1) The A.I.R. system. This clears things up considerably.

2) The RVB ( the vacuum diaphragm on the passenger side rear of the carb ) and all associated vacuum lines.

3) The ILC ( the goofy vacuum diaphragm on the front drivers side of carb ) and ALL the stupid little gizmos plugged to/from it. This includes the one with the wires going to it too ( the anti-dieseling solenoid ).

4) The entire vapor cannister system which includes the TVS on the passenger side front of the intake and the black round plastic thing with a million vac lines going in and out of it. This has nothing to do with the CCC system, but it cleans things up under the hood.

I can't think of anymore. That may be it. If I think of anymore stuff, I'll edit this post and include it here.

About the ILC ( idle load compensator ); On the VIN 9 engines, they didn't use this along with the other gizmos. They instead used a simple Idle Speed Solenoid. It had just one wire going to it. All it did was kick up the idle a bit when the AC compressor kicked on. That's it. The VIN Y's with the ILC did the same thing ( plus some other worthless crap I won't get into ). If you're running AC, convert to the VIN 9 ISS. You might even get away without using anything at all.

P.S. The EFE ( early fuel evaporation valve ...aka heat riser valve ) located on the drivers side exhaust manifold isn't needed either, but it's not part of the CCC system. It has a metal line coming from it that plugs into a TVS on the drivers side rear corner of the intake. From the TVS, a vac line ( rubber ) is 'T'ed into some of the other vac lines....which should now all be eliminated ( because you already removed them! ), so now you can just run that single vac line to any manifold vacuum source, like the rear of the carb. You can eliminate the whole EFE thing too if you want. It doesn't do sh*t anyway...

 

[86_olds]

I got a PM about the smog removal junk, so I'll just post the info here.

Generally, this is what you need to retain to keep the CCC system intact. I'm refering to the stuff under the hood and on a Cutlass with 307;

1) The DPS/MAP sensor. This is the small rectangular box bolted to the passenger side inner fender well. The hard plastic line coming off this needs to be plugged into a manifold vacuum source ( any will do ).

2) The temperature sensor on the front drivers side on the intake manifold.

3) The EGR valve. Technically you don't NEED it, but the computer is calibrated for use with EGR, so keep it on or you'll get part throttle pinging.

4) The EGR/RVB/ILC solenoid. This is the black box located on the rear drivers side valve cover. This controls the EGR ( and the Rear Vacuum Break and the Idle Load Compensator ). You can ditch all the vac lines going to this black box except the 2 for the EGR valve.

5) Of course you need the 2 plugs that go to the carb ( MC solenoid and TPS ).

6) You need the 4 prong plug that goes to the distributor. This is what controls the timing advance.

7) O2 sensor in passenger side exhaust manifold.

Everything else can be eliminated. This includes;

1) The A.I.R. system. This clears things up considerably.

2) The RVB ( the vacuum diaphragm on the passenger side rear of the carb ) and all associated vacuum lines.

3) The ILC ( the goofy vacuum diaphragm on the front drivers side of carb ) and ALL the stupid little gizmos plugged to/from it. This includes the one with the wires going to it too ( the anti-dieseling solenoid ).

4) The entire vapor cannister system which includes the TVS on the passenger side front of the intake and the black round plastic thing with a million vac lines going in and out of it. This has nothing to do with the CCC system, but it cleans things up under the hood.

I can't think of anymore. That may be it. If I think of anymore stuff, I'll edit this post and include it here.

About the ILC ( idle load compensator ); On the VIN 9 engines, they didn't use this along with the other gizmos. They instead used a simple Idle Speed Solenoid. It had just one wire going to it. All it did was kick up the idle a bit when the AC compressor kicked on. That's it. The VIN Y's with the ILC did the same thing ( plus some other worthless crap I won't get into ). If you're running AC, convert to the VIN 9 ISS. You might even get away without using anything at all.

P.S. The EFE ( early fuel evaporation valve ...aka heat riser valve ) located on the drivers side exhaust manifold isn't needed either, but it's not part of the CCC system. It has a metal line coming from it that plugs into a TVS on the drivers side rear corner of the intake. From the TVS, a vac line ( rubber ) is 'T'ed into some of the other vac lines....which should now all be eliminated ( because you already removed them! ), so now you can just run that single vac line to any manifold vacuum source, like the rear of the carb. You can eliminate the whole EFE thing too if you want. It doesn't do sh*t anyway...

thanks for posting this it helped alot

 

[Possumz]

 

[J.Rod22]

I got a PM about the smog removal junk, so I'll just post the info here.

Generally, this is what you need to retain to keep the CCC system intact. I'm refering to the stuff under the hood and on a Cutlass with 307;

1) The DPS/MAP sensor. This is the small rectangular box bolted to the passenger side inner fender well. The hard plastic line coming off this needs to be plugged into a manifold vacuum source ( any will do ).

2) The temperature sensor on the front drivers side on the intake manifold.

3) The EGR valve. Technically you don't NEED it, but the computer is calibrated for use with EGR, so keep it on or you'll get part throttle pinging.

4) The EGR/RVB/ILC solenoid. This is the black box located on the rear drivers side valve cover. This controls the EGR ( and the Rear Vacuum Break and the Idle Load Compensator ). You can ditch all the vac lines going to this black box except the 2 for the EGR valve.

5) Of course you need the 2 plugs that go to the carb ( MC solenoid and TPS ).

6) You need the 4 prong plug that goes to the distributor. This is what controls the timing advance.

7) O2 sensor in passenger side exhaust manifold.

Everything else can be eliminated. This includes;

1) The A.I.R. system. This clears things up considerably.

2) The RVB ( the vacuum diaphragm on the passenger side rear of the carb ) and all associated vacuum lines.

3) The ILC ( the goofy vacuum diaphragm on the front drivers side of carb ) and ALL the stupid little gizmos plugged to/from it. This includes the one with the wires going to it too ( the anti-dieseling solenoid ).

4) The entire vapor cannister system which includes the TVS on the passenger side front of the intake and the black round plastic thing with a million vac lines going in and out of it. This has nothing to do with the CCC system, but it cleans things up under the hood.

I can't think of anymore. That may be it. If I think of anymore stuff, I'll edit this post and include it here.

About the ILC ( idle load compensator ); On the VIN 9 engines, they didn't use this along with the other gizmos. They instead used a simple Idle Speed Solenoid. It had just one wire going to it. All it did was kick up the idle a bit when the AC compressor kicked on. That's it. The VIN Y's with the ILC did the same thing ( plus some other worthless crap I won't get into ). If you're running AC, convert to the VIN 9 ISS. You might even get away without using anything at all.

P.S. The EFE ( early fuel evaporation valve ...aka heat riser valve ) located on the drivers side exhaust manifold isn't needed either, but it's not part of the CCC system. It has a metal line coming from it that plugs into a TVS on the drivers side rear corner of the intake. From the TVS, a vac line ( rubber ) is 'T'ed into some of the other vac lines....which should now all be eliminated ( because you already removed them! ), so now you can just run that single vac line to any manifold vacuum source, like the rear of the carb. You can eliminate the whole EFE thing too if you want. It doesn't do sh*t anyway...

does anything need to be capped off once you remove the vacuum lines?

 

[Minion1186]

I never had a decent 307 run "right", something was always amiss with them. My cutlass supreme had a slight missfire and my cutlass salon had a super lean condition, ran almost ok with a 442 dual snorkel on it but ran like sh*t with an open element air cleaner on it. I tried richening up the secondaries with different rods,a different hanger and grinding down the air valve door stop so the flaps open up 100 percent rather than 50. If it's not running right chuck the electric q jet,ccc distributor and dehose the engine bay. I would then grab a new remanned q jet or a good used one and put any olds HEI distributor in it from 1979 and down and it'll run a whole lot better. I have done this a couple times and from experience the 307s got a little more peppier as opposed to when the ccc junk was on it.

 

[pontiacgp]

"3) The EGR valve. Technically you don't NEED it, but the computer is calibrated for use with EGR, so keep it on or you'll get part throttle pinging."

the EGR allows exhaust to re-enter the combustion chamber which reduces the cylinder temperature...removing or disabling it creates higher cylinder temps which can cause the pre-ignition pinging. Also without it you'll have higher readings of NOx if your worried about emissions

 

[307 Regal]

As well as a lock up kit for your trans.

Why is this?