Why You Don't Box Rear Upper Control Arms

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jociha

Master Mechanic
Oct 16, 2012
279
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If your car is stock you may not see it, because the rubber will twist. Imagine this, the top bolt on your upper control arm thru the frame is perfectly level, ok now picture your bottom bolt still on your upper control arm thru your rear end is also perfectly level. Now swing down one side of your rear end lets exaggerate and swing it 45 degree. The bolt on your rear end will not be level with the top bolt there for something twisted, but because a typical rear end only swings a few degree's, the sleeved bolt twists in the rubber but only a small amount.
 

oldtinsmith

Royal Smart Person
Jun 14, 2010
1,896
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Auburn, Michigan
...When you look at the design features used to build a set of rear arms for these cars, conflicting requirements are immediately apparent. For example, in order to do a reasonable job of laterally locating the rear axle assembly, you need very rigid arms fitted with pivots that allow little or no deflection. If the pivots are soft rubber, they deflect and allow the axle to move about and degrade handling, so rock-hard bushings would seem to be the order of the day. But, that would be ignoring some of the other kinematics present in the system. When the axle moves vertically, you notice binding in the angled upper arms. This is because the upper arms frame side pivots are far off the centerline of the vehicle, but the axle side ends are very close together, causing them to swing in conflicting arcs. At any height except the car's original ride height, the arms begin to pull against each other and against the mounts of the axle. To reduce this binding, you need very compliant (soft) bushings to allow the arms to essentially change in length a fraction of an inch. If you don't do this, you have greatly reduced ride quality and some degree of undesirable suspension binding. Also, consider how, when the car's body rolls and the axle needs to articulate, that the arms need to be free to move in torsion. In other words, they need to be free to twist or, once again, you incur suspension binding and erratic handling issues. (From "How To Make Your Muscle Car Handle" by Mark Savitske)

Doug
 

jociha

Master Mechanic
Oct 16, 2012
279
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Hey oldtinsmith, I see you live in Auburn, I live on the southeast corner of Delta college so we are not very far apart. :p
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,619
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Michigan
Obviously there is a benefit to have a boxed upper rear control arm with a roto-joint or something similar but I am curious if having a roto-joint on one end of a boxed lower control arm would be beneficial also or is a standard boxed control arm just fine.
 

oldtinsmith

Royal Smart Person
Jun 14, 2010
1,896
242
63
Auburn, Michigan
565bbchevy said:
I am curious if having a roto-joint on one end of a boxed lower control arm would be beneficial also or is a standard boxed control arm just fine.

Imho, I would think lower arms with one "roto" type bushing on one end and a "poly" type on the other end would be the ticket for a mostly DD.

Doug
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
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Kitchener, Ontario
In addition to the roto joint on the conversion upper control arm I have a roto joint on the lower to deal with the 8.2 rear end from a 67 Chevelle. Even though the 8.2 rear is 2.5" wider then a G body rear the location of the lower control arm brackets are closer together than the G body brackets. UMI didn't have the lowers with the roto joint but the great guys at UMI modified the tube to fit the roto joint and only charged me the difference in the cost of the roto joint..

Lower%2520axle1.jpg
 

oldtinsmith

Royal Smart Person
Jun 14, 2010
1,896
242
63
Auburn, Michigan
pontiacgp said:
In addition to the roto joint on the conversion upper control arm I have a roto joint on the lower to deal with the 8.2 rear end from a 67 Chevelle. Even though the 8.2 rear is 2.5" wider then a G body rear the location of the lower control arm brackets are closer together than the G body brackets. UMI didn't have the lowers with the roto joint but the great guys at UMI modified the tube to fit the roto joint and only charged me the difference in the cost of the roto joint..

Lower%2520axle1.jpg

Now that is cool of them!

Doug
 

jociha

Master Mechanic
Oct 16, 2012
279
1
18
565bbchevy said:
Obviously there is a benefit to have a boxed upper rear control arm with a roto-joint or something similar but I am curious if having a roto-joint on one end of a boxed lower control arm would be beneficial also or is a standard boxed control arm just fine.

I do not see any benefit to boxing a upper control arm. lowers get boxed because on hard launch they can bend having to move the entire weight of the car but uppers get pulled on so the only thing I ever see is people welding thick washers around the frame bolt holes to avoid the frame hole becoming egg shaped from the constant pulling. Having a roto joint on the uppers is a real good idea.
 

jociha

Master Mechanic
Oct 16, 2012
279
1
18
pontiacgp said:
In addition to the roto joint on the conversion upper control arm I have a roto joint on the lower to deal with the 8.2 rear end from a 67 Chevelle. Even though the 8.2 rear is 2.5" wider then a G body rear the location of the lower control arm brackets are closer together than the G body brackets. UMI didn't have the lowers with the roto joint but the great guys at UMI modified the tube to fit the roto joint and only charged me the difference in the cost of the roto joint..

Lower%2520axle1.jpg

Global West has a nice selection of upper and lower roto joint control arms.
 
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