yo whats good, im new to the forum check out my all original 1986 cutlass supreme im thinking about upgrading my suspension my IG @trapboss.gbody
- Thread starter Trapboss.Gbody
- Start date
- Status
Brrian, whats a good price to have someone install all this? I’m asking because these mobile mechanics are trying to charge about 100$ hr.
Unfortunately I don't know... I did all my work myself. That cost doesn't surprise me though.
I did mine with hand tools & on jack stands. No lift, no air tools. & I did it over the course of a few weeks last winter. If you wanted to do your own work & wanted to same some effort, you can buy new upper & lower control arms with bushings already installed. That was the hardest part (getting the bushings out, then back in). Next hardest was getting the springs in, but I eventually figured out the safe and 'easy' way to do it.
Another idea could be to start with just shocks & springs & see what you think of that. You might be happy with that alone. It's the lowest cost and effort, and if you need more, you can continue onto other things.
What kind of improvement are you looking for Trapboss? Is your car in good condition? Broken body mounts, worn tie rods, steering rag joint and tires from 25 years ago will give these cars a bad name.
Stiffer springs, stiffer shocks and low profile tires will get you more than half way there. Everything after that is for that last 10%. Next is a quick ratio steering box.
Not one person has claimed *** brace will improve lap times or handling. Not doubting a stiffer frame is better but bracing in a flat plane barely improves anything while it does add weight.
There is tons of information here from others who have done it. I've done it too but here are some things to keep in mind.
Body to frame bushings. These 2 need to be one for a solid car. Poly > rubber. Blazer spindles have a proud steering limiters making full lock less than stock.
The front flex lines are not comfortable at full lock AND full suspension compression. It's a safe bet you will never be there but I went through this and was not happy.
Make sure the wheels you want clear the brakes if you upgrade to bigger.
What is this triangulated rear suspension JimmyD ?
Why do you want to replace the rear end? No benefit in handling. Most do it for reliability depending on your power level and use.
Stiffer springs, stiffer shocks and low profile tires will get you more than half way there. Everything after that is for that last 10%. Next is a quick ratio steering box.
Not one person has claimed *** brace will improve lap times or handling. Not doubting a stiffer frame is better but bracing in a flat plane barely improves anything while it does add weight.
There is tons of information here from others who have done it. I've done it too but here are some things to keep in mind.
Body to frame bushings. These 2 need to be one for a solid car. Poly > rubber. Blazer spindles have a proud steering limiters making full lock less than stock.
The front flex lines are not comfortable at full lock AND full suspension compression. It's a safe bet you will never be there but I went through this and was not happy.
Make sure the wheels you want clear the brakes if you upgrade to bigger.
What is this triangulated rear suspension JimmyD ?
Why do you want to replace the rear end? No benefit in handling. Most do it for reliability depending on your power level and use.
Last edited:
Thanks RT jam,
My cutlass is in great shape but it’s just a cruiser that I want to update the suspension on. I agree on keeping most of the front suspension stock only think I want is the spindles from a S10 so I can upgrade the brakes and it’s just looks a lot better also.
Attachments
The spindles need to come from a 2 wheel drive Blazer. Many call it an upgrade but really it's for the dual piston caliper and unit wheel bearing.
The rotor is less than 1/2" bigger.
gbodyforum.com
The rotor is less than 1/2" bigger.
Blazer front brakes
Read the Blazer Brake Done thread but it's so long. I skimmed through it and is a stock G body hose what we need? If I cycle my front suspension and steering. The extreme travel makes the hose unhappy. The mock up is driver's side. Off the caliper, I have it pointed straight down. In the 2nd...
gbodyforum.com
Rr jam,The spindles need to come from a 2 wheel drive Blazer. Many call it an upgrade but really it's for the dual piston caliper and unit wheel bearing.
The rotor is less than 1/2" bigger.
Blazer front brakes
Read the Blazer Brake Done thread but it's so long. I skimmed through it and is a stock G body hose what we need? If I cycle my front suspension and steering. The extreme travel makes the hose unhappy. The mock up is driver's side. Off the caliper, I have it pointed straight down. In the 2nd...
Are you saying the S10 spindles won’t work? I’ve seen see real people on YouTube and actually spoke to a guy in my city that that has advised me either S10 or a Blazer will work.
Aw ok I read that thread.. it’s the brake lines that may give you some trouble I see. Why don’t you just use something other than hard lines?
To answer your question. An S10 and a 2wd Blazer are not the same.
Older S10 are the same as a G body, so no upgrade there. A Blazer offers dual piston, a slightly bigger rotor and an integral bearing.
Not sure what you are saying about hard line but I'll rephrase it.
I tried the flex lines off of both the G body and the Blazer. Also tried both brackets. So that is 4 combinations of parts. Many will say it works and I'm not here to contest that. Especially with the front suspension at full droop, it's pretty much works 98% of the time. The hose did not look comfortable to me at full lock. Realistically, few cars will see full lock at full droop.
At full compression A N D full droop there is absolutely nothing that works for all positions. Again, it can be said, nobody will ever be in that situation.
To satisfy all positions, I had to do what I described in my brakes thread.
Older S10 are the same as a G body, so no upgrade there. A Blazer offers dual piston, a slightly bigger rotor and an integral bearing.
Not sure what you are saying about hard line but I'll rephrase it.
I tried the flex lines off of both the G body and the Blazer. Also tried both brackets. So that is 4 combinations of parts. Many will say it works and I'm not here to contest that. Especially with the front suspension at full droop, it's pretty much works 98% of the time. The hose did not look comfortable to me at full lock. Realistically, few cars will see full lock at full droop.
At full compression A N D full droop there is absolutely nothing that works for all positions. Again, it can be said, nobody will ever be in that situation.
To satisfy all positions, I had to do what I described in my brakes thread.
- Status
Similar threads
