steel ground effects/extended rockers

I,m finally working on a replacement for my bolt on fiberglass ground effects. I made samples from aluminum to decide on the profile as seen in low quality picture. They will widen the lower body to blend better with the 2010 camaro nose. The lower profile is the same as the camaro without ground effects & the upper profile will premenantly be attached to the body with probably 3-m 8115 adhesive to resemble many late model profiles. The lower part under the door will be one long section & will screw on to the door sill & the fenders & quarters, which will allow for repairs if & when needed.
The new profile willgive a much smoother look & make the vehicle look lower, should really look cool with air ride. You listening boatshoes? Making from 18 gauge steel, which i will get help from a sheetmetal shop I deal with at work.Will post better pics when I start with the real metal.The hardest area will be where the front door opens at the front fender. And I,m not 100% sure how to design the rear quarters yet.
I'm trying to make this a project that others can either copy or change to suit their tastes, will post specs later .Someone with decent fab skill can have the main profiles bent for them by a sheetmetal shop, do the cutting to length & fitting themselves, Have the welding done if they can't , & attach with structual adhesives & screws.

As stated, this was a low quality pic, & will post some later. Was doing this near midnight in my carport, couldn't get as good of a pic further away. Hopefully sometime next week I can get the real parts bent & start fitting. Be patient with me.
I posted this on a few sites, & nobody has jumped in & said they did anything quite like it. I really think this could add a look you just can't buy premade. It could even be done in a more subtle pattern so most don't really know what you did, just that your stuff looks good.
Once again I'm making myself the guinea pig on a project. The difference between these day's & years past is I,m trying to be helpful & share it on the internet.

The skirts in the pics look like mine I'm replacing ,but with the stage 3air ducts. I was never happy with the quality of the now named Lauren engineering stuff. Making some yourself from fiberglass would be a pretty huge PITA, which is why I'm trying steel for my custom design.

Got the main profiles cut to height & bent at a local sheetmetal shop for $60 with my metal ,picked up yeaterday.Got 2 packs of 3-m 8115 structual adhesive. I could mig or tig weld to doors & quarters, but glue won't warp or cause rust like welding & even at $80 for 2 glue packs, it's not much more than i could spend on welding gas & electricity at today's prices.

Will post pics as soon as I can, new metal looks pretty cool.

Got far enough along to showwhat it looks like, not complete or in perfect alignment yet. One of the big issues I have with many ground effects is an angled off section in order for the door to close. I extended the front door section straighter, the marker line in photo is door angle. Also I had to cut into the front fender just under the ground effects line & about 3" down & about 1 1/2" in and bend metal in to allow clearance. It is in the rough in the picture to show how much, I will fill & smooth with structual adhesive. In the 2nd pic is a view of the backside of the front fender section with filler plates welded in. Left extra room in front for the doorsection to clear, the large tab will use the jackstud from the fiberglass ground effects. Front tapers back almost to old wheelwell line. Also gave a side view of the upper profile.

I also changed the wheel openings from stock (tighter). The lower section slips under the door & will screw down like the fiberglass part in the door opening. At the fender & quarter I probably will srew the lower to the upper from underneath. End caps will also extend into the fenderwells.

Parts should look less bulky when painted.



How's that light lower door line look? The steep angle of my profile allows it to be tight without rubbing. Did have to notch the lower section under the front door/ fender area to clear this.