83 wagon "blue"

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sbc383rulz

Apprentice
Jul 1, 2013
91
13
8
Western Washington
Fox80 said:
You had to heat the balancer up? And drive it on with a hammer and a block of wood? Both of them are very, very bad ideas
i have not gotten it on yet! you can say they are bad ideas but if the damper cant handle 300F then it shouldnt be in the engine compartment, i dont see any other way to get it on other than shaving the crank or the damper and im not about to do that.
 

Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
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Man, I'd still look into acquiring the proper tool to do the job. Even if you have to rent it for a few hours.
How about maybe trying to get it on with an impact wrench? It wouldn't be my first choice, but it would probably do the job.
I'd still be concerned about buggering up the threads on the crank.
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
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Kitchener, Ontario
I agree with Jack and stores that have free tool rental will most likely have the tool to install the damper......no need to take chances
 

sbc383rulz

Apprentice
Jul 1, 2013
91
13
8
Western Washington
i tried a impact and it pulled the threads from the crank, thats AFTER driving it on half way with a dead impact hammer and then tightening/hammering/repeat. the tool wont work any better than that, ive already drilled and tapped the crank so the tool wont have the right stud for the crank anyways. thanks for the concern guys ive got help from somebody who has done this for 30+ years.

ive got it all apart for people to look at and give advice but it just seems this crank is overly tight for some reason.
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
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Kitchener, Ontario
The tool does work, it threads into the crank and then you drive the balancer on with a nut using the rod that's anchored into the crank. The fine threads in the crank are not meant to draw the puller on and that is why there is a tool that Jack suggested you use. Also the helicoil you used for the repair was the incorrect one as they sell fine thread helicoils.
 

Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
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Gainesville, Fl
Steve is right in regard to how the tool works. Maybe trying a different damper might help. I know they're a tight fit. I admit when I put mine on, I used a hammer and a block of wood. I wouldn't suggest doing it that way to anyone.
I built this engine over 20 yrs ago and it still runs strong with no issues.
How is the inner surface of the damper and crank surface? Any surface rust or pitting on them? I can't see why it would be so much trouble getting it on.
 

sbc383rulz

Apprentice
Jul 1, 2013
91
13
8
Western Washington
I had a buddy come over and give me a hand, the crank had some minor burrs that we sanded off and we sanded the inside of the damper. after mic'in the crank and the damper they are the EXACT same size! going to sand more and more till it fits. i tried to throw it on today but apparently didnt sand enough off because it only went on 3/4 of the way. going to try and pull it tomorrow and continue sanding. i did not helicoil the crank, i just drilled and tapped it to 9/16 on a 18 pitch.
 

sbc383rulz

Apprentice
Jul 1, 2013
91
13
8
Western Washington
i really apologize if im coming off like a dick, the two people i have been relying on for advice doing this have been doing it for longer than i have been alive. the tool may work, in this case i believe the tool would have the EXACT same outcome because of how tight the damper is on the crank.

the crank OD is the same size or bigger than the ID of the damper, no matter what tool you have you are not going to be able to get that on with that tight of a fit and not using a hydraulic press.

im getting it solved, im done being frustrated and im back in the figure stuff out and make it work mode. its only steel, i can make it do what i want.
 

Longroof79

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Oct 14, 2008
12,177
9,796
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Gainesville, Fl
Hey man, no need to apologize. You know what you're encountering, we're just sitting here in the audience throwing out ideas and suggestions.
The fact that you did measure inside and outside diameters, etc. You've obviously been doing your homework. It's a bit of a conundrum that the crank diameter is exactly the same size of the inside damper diameter.
BTW, some of us have been around the block and have worked on cars in excess of 40 yrs.

I'm curious though..did this damper come off of the same engine?
 

Fox80

G-Body Guru
Jun 27, 2013
563
9
16
Jamestown NY
The ID of the balancer SHOULD be smaller than the OD of the crank that is what they call a press fit, most of the time it's between .00055 and .001 depending on the balancer material, and a installer tool WILL work it is the only way to put one on, when you use the bolts when your first starting to pull the balancer on your only pulling in a few threads, that's why it pulls the threads out, a installer threads all the way to the end of the threads and uses the roller plate to PRESS the balancer on, if you sand that balancer enough you can wipe the key out when it fires up I've seen it happen, and the fact that you heated a stock two piece balancer up with a torch will probably loosen the outer ring, and you will lose your TDC. The balancer is NOT designed to get to 300 degrees, nothing short of the headers under hood is designed to. It's nice that you have friends to help but a friend that will hammer a balancer on is no friend if mine. And age or years of "experience " does not imply knowledge, I know many people twice my age I wouldn't trust to change my lawn mower blade. Buy a installer and install it the proper way before you don't have a motor left to worry about
 
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