Yes thats my question... Because the rods and step up springs that were in it when I took it apart were mismatched...
Carb Stalling Troubleshooting...Flooded ?
- Thread starter Tynan918
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If I were one of the meme heavy guys here I'd give you a cousin Eddie toast that your car is the gift that keeps on giving.
Maybe mclellan83 has something appropriate up his sleeve
Everything is rebuilt and installed...
The floaters are adjusted correctly, the primary jets are matching .098, the secondary jets are matching .095, the metering rods are matching .070*.037, and the step up springs are matching 8hg springs... I'll change the rods and/or springs as I drive it and test it and see if it needs change...
(Yes the bolts are tightened down flush in case anyone is concerned with how they are in these pics)
The floaters are adjusted correctly, the primary jets are matching .098, the secondary jets are matching .095, the metering rods are matching .070*.037, and the step up springs are matching 8hg springs... I'll change the rods and/or springs as I drive it and test it and see if it needs change...
(Yes the bolts are tightened down flush in case anyone is concerned with how they are in these pics)
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But before I go any further with starting it, adjusting mixture and idle screws, using a vac gauge, etc... I want to check my timing and make sure it's correct before adjusting the carburetor with the engine is running...
So I removed the cap to watch the pointer and see where it points when I turn the engine over, and I feel the compression stroke from Cylinder #1 without the plug in it, and when the harmonic balancer groove is on 6° BTDC, and then 0° TDC... Which should both be pointing near or at Cylinder #1 if timing is correct...
I just took these pics and obviously these pics show 0° TDC on exhaust stroke currently, so I'll need to rotate the engine to 6° BTDC on the compression stroke and see where the pointer points, and then rotate just a few notchs more to 0° TDC and see where the pointer points...
So I removed the cap to watch the pointer and see where it points when I turn the engine over, and I feel the compression stroke from Cylinder #1 without the plug in it, and when the harmonic balancer groove is on 6° BTDC, and then 0° TDC... Which should both be pointing near or at Cylinder #1 if timing is correct...
I just took these pics and obviously these pics show 0° TDC on exhaust stroke currently, so I'll need to rotate the engine to 6° BTDC on the compression stroke and see where the pointer points, and then rotate just a few notchs more to 0° TDC and see where the pointer points...
Oh and here is Spark Plug #1 in case anyone is concerned with what it looks like...
Heres what they looked like in mid August, after buying them in mid July... Must be running rich because it cleaned off the smuck from the spark plug that was on it a month more ago...
Heres what they looked like in mid August, after buying them in mid July... Must be running rich because it cleaned off the smuck from the spark plug that was on it a month more ago...
Attempted to fire it up, and I get a "crank, no start"...
I have been attempting to start it several times before this video.
The first time it started and ran 3 seconds with what seemed like at super high rpms (idle screw is hardly tightened, and mixture screws set to stock settings), and a loud whistle and then stall (I'll try to get that on another video)...
Now it doesn't even fire up, just cranks... And if I push on the throttle a few times and start it, it attempts to fire but doesn't.
Vacuum leak ? Downsize the Step Up Springs ? Lack of fuel ?
I have been attempting to start it several times before this video.
The first time it started and ran 3 seconds with what seemed like at super high rpms (idle screw is hardly tightened, and mixture screws set to stock settings), and a loud whistle and then stall (I'll try to get that on another video)...
Now it doesn't even fire up, just cranks... And if I push on the throttle a few times and start it, it attempts to fire but doesn't.
Vacuum leak ? Downsize the Step Up Springs ? Lack of fuel ?
Those R45's are typically one stage hotter than what the default or factory plug that came with the motor would have been. Going hotter is one way to try and compensate for a lot of short distance driving and/or idling.
Agree about the fuel filter. +100 on using a metal canister filter. The glass ones are cute and dressy but dangerous in a closed environment like an engine bay.
Curious about all the RED wires running all over the landscape. Someone attempt a rewire or repair and only have red in the drawer? And the one pic shows a red wire wearing a serious ball of black electrical tape. Hope whatever is inside the cocoon is not two wires just twisted together and mummified.
Solidly agree about the carburetor. It needs to be returned to it's default or as delivered settings for idle stop and idle mixture.
Rubber dry rots. Even under the hood, heat and oil and U-V exposure and kill your hoses. It might not be visible as tears and splits but damage can still be present. if the injured line is a vacuum line then it tends to collapse because it can't resist the suction being applied to it. The good news is that those hoses can be bought as a bulk item off a bobbin or spool and paid for by the foot.
7.0 to 7.5 lbs fuel pressure to the carb? Yeah, you could actually be overwhelming the floats and needles in the carb fuel bowls and gas is pushing past them and into the venturis. Might be a thought to give some consideration to pulling that pump and finding one with a lower delivery rating. Possible that a previous owner thought that the Edelbrock, being a high performance carb, needed a stronger pump to match. I could see the necessary if you were running a Dominator or tunnel ram and two fours but for a skinny 650 cfm single four barrel, Nah.
With the motor running and at idle, if you whack the accelerator at the carb to bring the rpms up, you are still only operating the primaries. The secondaries don't come into operation until close to wide open throttle such as when you are passing another car or on the strip and launching at full throttle against a tree or main street traffic light. (NOT RECOMMENDED!!!!!) Not seeing any activity from them when at idle is normal.
And the passing comment about keeping a diary or log book in which you record all the changes or adjustments you make and in what direction is not a bad idea, particularly if, as has been suggested, you are now in the middle of a multiple issue situation. Recording how many full turns or half turns or quarter turns or less than quarter or ??? can seem to be tedious and reasonless but using Nascar as just one example, for every track and many different conditions, all the teams have setup books that they have compiled based on multiple visits over time. Every twist of a screwdriver or turn of a wrench or input change made to a ECU is recorded and the consequences tested and noted. The generic term here is TUNING which is just about where you are in terms of getting your engine to cooperate.
Nick
Agree about the fuel filter. +100 on using a metal canister filter. The glass ones are cute and dressy but dangerous in a closed environment like an engine bay.
Curious about all the RED wires running all over the landscape. Someone attempt a rewire or repair and only have red in the drawer? And the one pic shows a red wire wearing a serious ball of black electrical tape. Hope whatever is inside the cocoon is not two wires just twisted together and mummified.
Solidly agree about the carburetor. It needs to be returned to it's default or as delivered settings for idle stop and idle mixture.
Rubber dry rots. Even under the hood, heat and oil and U-V exposure and kill your hoses. It might not be visible as tears and splits but damage can still be present. if the injured line is a vacuum line then it tends to collapse because it can't resist the suction being applied to it. The good news is that those hoses can be bought as a bulk item off a bobbin or spool and paid for by the foot.
7.0 to 7.5 lbs fuel pressure to the carb? Yeah, you could actually be overwhelming the floats and needles in the carb fuel bowls and gas is pushing past them and into the venturis. Might be a thought to give some consideration to pulling that pump and finding one with a lower delivery rating. Possible that a previous owner thought that the Edelbrock, being a high performance carb, needed a stronger pump to match. I could see the necessary if you were running a Dominator or tunnel ram and two fours but for a skinny 650 cfm single four barrel, Nah.
With the motor running and at idle, if you whack the accelerator at the carb to bring the rpms up, you are still only operating the primaries. The secondaries don't come into operation until close to wide open throttle such as when you are passing another car or on the strip and launching at full throttle against a tree or main street traffic light. (NOT RECOMMENDED!!!!!) Not seeing any activity from them when at idle is normal.
And the passing comment about keeping a diary or log book in which you record all the changes or adjustments you make and in what direction is not a bad idea, particularly if, as has been suggested, you are now in the middle of a multiple issue situation. Recording how many full turns or half turns or quarter turns or less than quarter or ??? can seem to be tedious and reasonless but using Nascar as just one example, for every track and many different conditions, all the teams have setup books that they have compiled based on multiple visits over time. Every twist of a screwdriver or turn of a wrench or input change made to a ECU is recorded and the consequences tested and noted. The generic term here is TUNING which is just about where you are in terms of getting your engine to cooperate.
Nick
Thought about using these, a friend gave them to me since he couldn't return them... Need to buy 4 more if they do work for my engine... He bought them for his 350 SBC...
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