Wrong vid. You have a crank no start condition video here.
Whistling means one thing to me....air is going in fast somewhere. Somewhere could be somewhere you don't want it, meaning huge vacuum leak? Can't see it so not sure.
Noticed too that in the crank no start vid you don't have the choke mechanism activated. Why not? Forgot to look but is it an electric choke? Leaving the key on heats up that choke and allows it to open when it needs to be in operation when the engine is cold and first cranks. When jacking around with a problem child no-start condition, if it's an electric choke, unplug it (and keep the wire from grounding by wrapping the end in tape or whatever) while you're troubleshooting. Otherwise it will heat up and stay open when the rest of everything is cold.
You're fooling yourself if you can "time the engine" by setting sh*t to 6 BTDC on the crank and pointing the rotor to #1. That just gets you in the ball park. If you're off on that distributor housing movement by even 1/4" you'll see a wild swing in timing. BARELY loosen the distributor housing hold down bolt so as to just be able to turn the distributor housing while you have someone crank the engine. Then while it's cranking, you can slightly rotate the distributor housing until the engine is happy enough to crank up. On a Chevy, IIRC, the distributor rotation is backwards (Oldsmobile is my standard, so someone correct me if I'm wrong). So the rotor turns clockwise. Turn your housing slightly counter-clockwise to increase the advance, and clockwise to reduce the advance. Once it gets running, you will need to use a timing light. If yours is "too complicated", then go to the auto parts store and get a basic timing light. Otherwise you're just guessing. Or borrow one or learn how to use yours correctly before you go any further. Otherwise you're pi$$ing up a rope.
SAFETY TIP- And that "glass" fuel filter? (I'm betting it's actually polycarbonate) When you get done with your test n tune, take it out of the line. Put a metal canister one in there if you feel you absolutely need to have one there. You have one back by the tank so you really don't need one at all under the hood. Sure, keep the glass one around if you ever have to troubleshoot, but as others have stated, those things are an accident waiting to happen. It's better than plastic, true, but you don't want to keep it under there all the time. Use those see-through deals only when you need to see and verify that you're getting gas flow to the carb. Then get it the f*ck out of the engine compartment.