Gotta read things twice before I post from now on.
why would you want to do that?....
Gotta read things twice before I post from now on.
I can’t help it, it’s a Chevy!Or fix your oil leaks.
Due to the attempt to put the US on the metric system in the late '70's alot of companies converted everything they could to metric. So woth the 3.0 wire gauge is equal to 12 AWG. In all my Chevy manuals with wire diagrams have a conversion chart for metric to AWG. Nice to see someone else taking the challange to do this kind of wire work.In the GM schematic, the conductors for power supply to the bulkhead (AKA C100) is specified as 3.0 GXL. My real life experience tells me that this should be 12 gauge GXL wire (or perhaps 10 gauge wire). Does anyone have any better explanation of the 3.0 designation by GM for what most would call 12 gauge wire?
PS See attached pic. Pink 3.0 GXL is the conductor for the HEI ignition. View attachment 149211
Many thanks for the heads up. Tips like yours are one of the many reasons that I post projects up here. There is a lot of knowledge here. Many thanks!!!full gauges and running the upgraded alternator. I just did this upgrade myself recently and from my research into it, I’ve read doing without the resistor when having gauges causes issues with charging.
If you don’t mind a bit of extra parts, you can keep your stock wiring with this adapter:Many thanks for the heads up. Tips like yours are one of the many reasons that I post projects up here. There is a lot of knowledge here. Many thanks!!!
If you don’t mind a bit of extra parts, you can keep your stock wiring with this adapter:
Dont forget to check your 12v reference wire for your alternator when you do this, I almost burnt my 144 up because I wasn’t getting anything out of the factory wire.
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