So ummm, I kinda cheated and cut my turn signal cancel cam. I soldered on a wire, gave it and my horn wire a spade connection, and just rotated the wheel one or two splines to the left. Sorry / not sorry; my wheel is now straight. lol
Also, I bought a '94 V6 Camaro T5 ("World Class") for 100 bucks. The internals look good. Seems to have had a clutch and/or pilot bearing failure which boogered up the snout of the input shaft a bit. The previous owner said the slave cylinder mount broke when he went in for a clutch change. (He threw in the broken V6 bell for free.) This model of trans is not what I want, but it's all I need. Gear ratios and Ford bolt pattern be damned! After 19 years of dreaming, the swap has finally begun. I'll be hitting people up for information. Mostly for good rebuild parts and literature.
I'm gonna find out the hard way whether or not the "non-centered pilot bearing hole" talk is true on automatic BOP engines. I have my doubts. Heck, my crank might even be correct.
The auto trans gets dropped as soon as I find a good T5WC rebuild kit and put it in.
Current total costs:
T5 core: $100
2nd gen F-body BOP bell: $40
pilot bushing: $5
Hot Rod Works GM Ford pattern to Muncie pattern adapter: $198.17 shipped and taxed.
Various pedals bought from the forum over a decade ago: Cannot remember
Buick 350 flywheel: $190 shipped from ebay seller. (Should have just bought a new one for the cost after machining.)
Flywheel machining, inspection, and balance costs: TBD
Still need:
Crossmember solution
T5 trans mount solution (Gotta figure out how to tackle that 15-18 degree tilt.)
Hydraulic clutch throwout bearing
Shifter solution (The F-body shifter is angled to the right due to the T5 tilt which will no longer exist in my application.)
Driveshaft solution
Reverse light & speedometer adaptiation
T5 rebuild kit. Might not even need it, honestly. Hopefully the input shaft can be smoothed back out too.