What did you do to your non-G Body project today [2024 edition]

Doing man stuff is gratifying.

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And a little painful.
 
you feel asleep in your truck, didn't you? the little woman loaded it up for you and you woke up with wood. :rofl:

I dunno, I about died a few times standing those logs up. One took a couple tries. But you are right, I did have some legit wood earlier.
 
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Started to patch the only hole in the floor.
Always seems no matter how I cut or measure the patch is always wonky.

I ended up just half cutting out the patch I made initially because I wasn't happy with it.
View attachment 245186View attachment 245187
Looks like you are in Injun country when it comes to the metal surrounding where you want to install that patch. it do appear as if there is a lot of surface rust and bubble rust out on the perimeters. From personal and extensive experience, trying to weld rust to rust, or fresh, bright, new metal to rust, is right up there in the top 5 of the most major of the MPITA's. Just as a thought here, once you do get that patch burned in and cleaned up, would it be worth the extra time and labor to add a larger doubler or second panel over the first? Let's you increase the thickness of material at the damage site. Install could be by use of rosette or plug welds in the field and then tacks or perimeter seaming on the edges. With a larger overall area, it has the advantage of letting you get to clean undamaged metal and increasing the strength of the repair as a whole.

Just me wondering in print here,




Nick
 
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Brought the S-10 in for its yearly service. Dropped the old oil filter and pulled the drain plug this afternoon. Plan is to let it drain overnight to get as much of that dark oily well used lube out of the crankcase before replacing it with the fresh new stuff.

Truck goes for a new fuel injection spider on Tuesday. Original plan was to do this myself but time has become an issue right now and I am trying to juggle call in shifts with shop time so elected to farm it out. Added virtue is that the work comes with warranty. I am supplying all the replacement parts so they don't have to source and chase them; this is a pure labor job.

Once the truck come back to me, I can then dive into the rear brakes and see if those drums have finally worn out their welcome. Would prefer to have them turned but no one around seems to be doing that anymore and if they did, they'd want to do the install and shoe work as well. Walk ins with parts to be tuned isn't what most shops are into these days.

After that I have to take the DA to the passenger side box panel and see why it has developed a nasty case of "acne". I have a feeling that this might be a case of the rust inhibiting coating that it received last year turning out to be incompatible with the coats of primer'filler and and top color that succeeded it. What may have to happen is that the layer of Rust Mort that I now plan to use will have to be covered with primer sealer before anything else can happen. Had the same conflict of coatings occur on the Monte's inner rocker panel during the prep work this summer so familar with the probable fix.

Also had to bring the Electra-glide back into the shop. Took a very brief ride on Saturday and discovered that the rear brakes were non-functionous-estis, AGAIN. Not sure why as the entire sysem is new. The plan at this point is to re-re-re-bleed the lines and caliper and see if the pedal holds firm. if it sits and drops again then I think the next step will be a totally new master cylinder. The existing one got a brand new shiny clean rebuild kit but if the bore itself has become marginal due to age and use, then the best kit in the world won't keep the brake fluid from bypassing. It also looks like I will have to drop the carb off and check the low speed idle passages. it will fire and idle but it is grumpy about it all, meaning that it is likely that a good cleaning and delousing is in order. Bleah.




Nick
 
Brought the S-10 in for its yearly service. Dropped the old oil filter and pulled the drain plug this afternoon. Plan is to let it drain overnight to get as much of that dark oily well used lube out of the crankcase before replacing it with the fresh new stuff.

Truck goes for a new fuel injection spider on Tuesday. Original plan was to do this myself but time has become an issue right now and I am trying to juggle call in shifts with shop time so elected to farm it out. Added virtue is that the work comes with warranty. I am supplying all the replacement parts so they don't have to source and chase them; this is a pure labor job.

Once the truck come back to me, I can then dive into the rear brakes and see if those drums have finally worn out their welcome. Would prefer to have them turned but no one around seems to be doing that anymore and if they did, they'd want to do the install and shoe work as well. Walk ins with parts to be tuned isn't what most shops are into these days.

After that I have to take the DA to the passenger side box panel and see why it has developed a nasty case of "acne". I have a feeling that this might be a case of the rust inhibiting coating that it received last year turning out to be incompatible with the coats of primer'filler and and top color that succeeded it. What may have to happen is that the layer of Rust Mort that I now plan to use will have to be covered with primer sealer before anything else can happen. Had the same conflict of coatings occur on the Monte's inner rocker panel during the prep work this summer so familar with the probable fix.

Also had to bring the Electra-glide back into the shop. Took a very brief ride on Saturday and discovered that the rear brakes were non-functionous-estis, AGAIN. Not sure why as the entire sysem is new. The plan at this point is to re-re-re-bleed the lines and caliper and see if the pedal holds firm. if it sits and drops again then I think the next step will be a totally new master cylinder. The existing one got a brand new shiny clean rebuild kit but if the bore itself has become marginal due to age and use, then the best kit in the world won't keep the brake fluid from bypassing. It also looks like I will have to drop the carb off and check the low speed idle passages. it will fire and idle but it is grumpy about it all, meaning that it is likely that a good cleaning and delousing is in order. Bleah.




Nick
Be easier to buy as cheap oil/filter as possible , run 10-20 minutes drain and put in good stuff? Just putting it out there.
 
My Taco decided my day hadn’t been bad enough. Got home and heard hissing. The good thing is it only went flat on one side, and my tire guy was open. I’m just waiting to see if I’ll need a new one. Think it was an exhaust hanger View attachment 245715View attachment 245714
That's pretty cool treadwear indicators with the 40% 60% 80% that disappear as it wears...never seen that 🤔
 

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