Search results for query: crank

...Prevent wheel skid too. I have run both Eagle and Scat, and both of them have worked well. My personal engines made 910 hp with an Eagle crank and H-beam rods, 980 hp with a Scat crank and Eagle rods, 650 hp 496 with a Scat crank and rods, 450 hp 355 with an Eagle crank and Scat rods. And...

Originally car wouldn’t crank at all. Sent computer to Holley and they sent it back said it was fine. I plugged it in and it worked. Cranked right up. Then the issue came back. Holley tech guy sent me a tune with out cam sensor only crank and it fired right up every time. I switched out cam...

To me that looks like a crank case vent, it wouldn't have anything to do with your A/C might just be a freak occurrence they happened at the same time. When was the last time your system was charged?

If it runs in wasted spark (crank trigger only), then do that. What did you do to resolve the key switch issue that was making the fuel pump run randomly and forcing key cycles to reset?

...point to failing electro-mechanical starter and/or solenoid issues. The only thing you mentioned is that when it does nothing, no click..no crank..no sound; you need to confirm the wire from IGN switch to solenoid is working properly. Test light at purple wire at starter solenoid while...

A skilled welder could warp that arch right into place. Just crank up the heat. You up for the challenge?

Have you had the valve covers off? Broken springs, stuck open valves? I don't remember if you said you cranked it over with covers off and visually verified all the movement of rockers, valves, etc...

...scale) across the wire. Red lead at battery terminal/post the Black lead at the starter solenoid stud/terminal. Now while (or attempting to) crank the vehicle, watch the voltage reading on the voltmeter. If there's any more than .2 volts (200 millivolts) showing up, you have a poor...

Slack on any updates, work and all. Did buy another engine, a 480hp at the crank 383, AFR heads with roller drivetrain, fresh flywheel and clutch for LT T56(one piece rear main style) for $540. Don't know what I'll do with that but add to the collection

I would save those those full roller rockers for performance heads that came originally with screw in studs... but if insist, install an Intake and Exhaust rocker on just one cylinder, make a full rotation of the crank by hand and see if you have any clearance issues. GL

...should try to trace it first to the extent you can. does this car have an aftermarket alarm system with a starter interrupt relay, or other cranking disablement? you may want to check there, otherwise the purple wire on the starter solenoid comes from the IGN switch and you should trouble...

...another 1/2" to get the PS pulley on fully to run a serpentine setup. The MK6 PS pulley sits too far out to safely run as a serp setup, MK6 crank runs smaller ID than MK4 stuff. 7331/7311 is 6/6 rib and single 6 rib 7" crank 4012 is the WP pulley in running Can run 2 belt setup with either...

I have a Proform cam degreeing kit and the degree wheel hole diameter for the crank bolt is 1.00". However, an Olds balancer bolt is 3/4"-16. Has anyone done something to get the degree wheel centered? Also, if the bolt holding the degree wheel on is used to turn the engine both ways, it seems...

I think i need super swampers! The electric fuel pump works great. It starts so easy and quick now! Turn the key and it fires almost instantly. No more long cranks.

That’s the issue - the wiring for crank and run vs run only is not correct if you’re using a stock g-body key switch. That part of the wiring has nothing to do with the Holley, it is everything to do with how the car wiring is working. And the factory switch does not need to be reset to off to...

Exactly, have to make it a loop. Clean air into crank case and then out to the intake port.

Iis there any gas coming out of the pump? Before you go tearing into the tank, pull the line off the carb and crank it alot to see if you get gas squirting out. If gas does squirt then getting fuel from the tank is not the problem but the carb.

Thanks for the information! That makes me feel better for sure. I've never replaced it (or anything else on the car other than the suspension & spark plugs) as I just bought it in September. I have a feeling it is original (only 60,000 miles on the car), but have no way of knowing for sure.

I can turn key all the way. However the white piece at the bottom of the steering column nearest the fire wall did fall off. And it looks to have a plastic tab that goes into something. Not sure if that’s it. Besides that it was all working fine. Thanks for the help fellas

...earlier too but it's a mechanical lockout on these like you noted. You shouldn't be able to rotate the Ignition lock cylinder to the CRANK position unless the switch is in the P or N position. johnnunez29 is that what you're experiencing? You can't rotate the KEY to the CRANK position...