If I had it to do all over again, I would go with the Edlebrock Pro-Flo so that it has individual injectors built into the intake
BUICK 1964 Skylark Coupe Project
- Thread starter joesregalproject
- Start date
Sounds like you're going to get to learn about the idle circuits no matter what q-jet you start with IMO. I say this because mine came with one stock and the only deviations are a baby cam and long tube headers. My idle screws don't seem to do anything. I've done idle screws before so I know what to expect. I also know exactly where I am though since rebuilding it, but I won't touch the idle until I get the main jets and APT setting just right. Maybe unnecessary as it seems to be its own thing, but it's the same way I'd do it if it were EFI as well since it all plays off MAF/VE there and mains here.
Just ask mclellan83 , I'm not sure his is even running right again a good year??? later. I know it was down a long time
Yeah, I have read of a few who gave up and went back to carbs. Mainly running issues and parts failure were the reasons. Supposedly radio interference is an issue on some older cars. The Fitech seem much worse with much crappier support.
I dunno, I've seen a lot of guys get crappy support from holley, and, general observation on these 'fi kits' from most anyone is they don't seem to be keeping up with quality replacement parts, once enough years go by the answer is 'upgrade to our newer model' .... and secretly I think their 'tech support' often isn't a car guy or someone who has ever worked on a car, but, instead it's someone who clicks through computer screens of troubleshooting prompts just reading off what they see.
I think it's the fitech and Holley 4bbl TBI units that can be problematic from a parts perspective. The Terminator line seems to have a much better reputation.
Mine isn't, a good part of the wait was Holley pushing off that it could be the unit making me jump through all kinds of hoops. Finally they did give me a new unit that solved the problem but still had radio interference from the new distributor we put in while trouble shooting the changes in symptoms. So bit the bullet and bought the Hyperspark then had to buy the coil and then the box to run it. Recently the hold up has been me, been trying to mess with the Blazer more to get it ready so have let that slack, hoping to maybe have it right this weekend but won't hold my breath
Our mechanic here absolutely has Holley for the radio interference crap, we ran into when doing a Sniper for a customer after I had mine done. He has an 86 Grand Prix, we were getting a bunch of RI and their trouble shoot was to take it out of learning mode so that it would run right. Now I know it was likely his distributor throwing out interference to the unit but it really shouldn't be so sensitive to that
The distributor itself every time it fires a cylinder? Or a single component within? Or the harness to/from?
Well with mine it was constant, was messing with the head units as well which is why I decided to swap out to the Hyperspark. But on the GP it just wasn't real happy in general so they wanted it in the closed loop to stay reliable
Got a bit of work done over the past week or so. Removed the rear windows and regulators and pulled the seats out of it. Rolled it outside and hosed all the body cavities out again. Rinsed out a lot more mouse nest and muck. I sprayed some of the phosphoric acid on the driver's side interior floor and it looks a lot cleaner than it did. I made sure to rinse it off really well.
I tried to use the sandblasting attachment on a few areas and it removes paint very well, but it just won't touch the heavy pitting. Kind of a bummer but I had low expectations to begin with. It will work well on other stuff later on.
Today I removed the rusted out rear window to trunk panel. I don't know whose job it was to spot weld this thing in place, but they must've been going for employee of the month. There were spot welds everywhere. Plus it was brazed on the corners and leaded at the seams. PITA to get out.
With this out, I think I can replace just the lip section of the package tray panel below it and then replace the window to trunk panel itself. The rest of the rear window channel (particularly on the pillars) isn't in the best shape, but it is not so bad that I'm ready to cut it out and weld new metal in.
I'm generally not a huge fan of POR-15 type products, but this seems like an ideal application for it (or their POR Patch product) and I really want to avoid going down a rabbit hole of sheet metal replacement. Of course if I start poking and it gets any worse, I'm gonna have to weld some metal in.
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I tried to use the sandblasting attachment on a few areas and it removes paint very well, but it just won't touch the heavy pitting. Kind of a bummer but I had low expectations to begin with. It will work well on other stuff later on.
Today I removed the rusted out rear window to trunk panel. I don't know whose job it was to spot weld this thing in place, but they must've been going for employee of the month. There were spot welds everywhere. Plus it was brazed on the corners and leaded at the seams. PITA to get out.
With this out, I think I can replace just the lip section of the package tray panel below it and then replace the window to trunk panel itself. The rest of the rear window channel (particularly on the pillars) isn't in the best shape, but it is not so bad that I'm ready to cut it out and weld new metal in.
I'm generally not a huge fan of POR-15 type products, but this seems like an ideal application for it (or their POR Patch product) and I really want to avoid going down a rabbit hole of sheet metal replacement. Of course if I start poking and it gets any worse, I'm gonna have to weld some metal in.
Window and Door Seal Channel Repair Bundle
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