BUICK 1964 Skylark Coupe Project

[joesregalproject]

When working with the dust, the cleanup, or anywhere else that crops up? Just an FYI, lead is a tricky sucker and absorbs through the skin, not just the mouth.

Orally it absorbs faster to be sure, but, skin does absorb it and it's one of those heavy metals that stick around for a while once in.

All those paint chips I ate when I was a kid must've given me immunity.

Lol, I melted most of it out to avoid making dust and I used the carbide burr to dig some of it out since it makes big filings, not dust. There wasn't a lot of lead in those seams to begin with but I will exercise caution around it. I vacuumed up the mess yesterday, I'll wear a mask when I empty the shop vac.

 

[CopperNick]

+100 on CK80's comments. Even if the body doesn't absorb the lead, it can embed it in a callus or under the finger nails or even in the scalp. If a doctor is looking for lead poisoning they will test the scalp hair 'cause apparently the stuff can be detected and measured for amounts present.



Nick

 

[DRIVEN]

Dude, just fix the car.

 

[joesregalproject]

The Lacrosse project had me occupied last week so I didn't get much done on the Skylark, but I'm back on it. I ordered the replacement sheetmetal for the rear window to trunk panel. It includes the panel underneath which is really just the rear section of the package tray panel but it should work well. Basically the section in red will get cut out and replaced.

1964-1965 Chevelle Coupe Rear Window To Trunk Panel Complete With Inner Panel

1964-1965 Chevelle Coupe Rear Window To Trunk Panel Complete With Inner Panel

www.ss396.com

I dropped $150 today on grinding discs and belts from the body supply shop (holy sh*t that stuff has gotten expensive).

I got the decklid up on the horse and started stripping the underside. Not fun work but it needs to be done.

I use a die grinder with 40 grit Roloc discs for this task which works great but my air powered die grinder uses enough air to keep my compressor running continuously. So to avoid the noise and the wear on the compressor, I picked up one of these Milwaukee M12 die grinders. It was a bit pricey but it works very well and it's a lot quieter which is nice when working in an attached garage. As a bonus, it doesn't make your hands freezing cold and there is no air hose to trip over. It does run through the 1.5AH battery very fast so I'll probably need to upgrade to a larger battery.

If anyone has any suggestions on how to clean up inside this lip, let me know. It is sorta difficult to get at with the die grinder and even the half inch belt sander won't fit in there.

 

[pagrunt]

If anyone has any suggestions on how to clean up inside this lip, let me know. It is sorta difficult to get at with the die grinder and even the half inch belt sander won't fit in there.

Odds are a Dremel type tool would be the better option on getting in there.

 

[ck80]

The Lacrosse project had me occupied last week so I didn't get much done on the Skylark, but I'm back on it. I ordered the replacement sheetmetal for the rear window to trunk panel. It includes the panel underneath which is really just the rear section of the package tray panel but it should work well. Basically the section in red will get cut out and replaced.

1964-1965 Chevelle Coupe Rear Window To Trunk Panel Complete With Inner Panel

1964-1965 Chevelle Coupe Rear Window To Trunk Panel Complete With Inner Panel

www.ss396.com

View attachment 217676
I dropped $150 today on grinding discs and belts from the body supply shop (holy sh*t that stuff has gotten expensive).

I got the decklid up on the horse and started stripping the underside. Not fun work but it needs to be done.
View attachment 217675
I use a die grinder with 40 grit Roloc discs for this task which works great but my air powered die grinder uses enough air to keep my compressor running continuously. So to avoid the noise and the wear on the compressor, I picked up one of these Milwaukee M12 die grinders. It was a bit pricey but it works very well and it's a lot quieter which is nice when working in an attached garage. As a bonus, it doesn't make your hands freezing cold and there is no air hose to trip over. It does run through the 1.5AH battery very fast so I'll probably need to upgrade to a larger battery.
View attachment 217678
If anyone has any suggestions on how to clean up inside this lip, let me know. It is sorta difficult to get at with the die grinder and even the half inch belt sander won't fit in there.
View attachment 217677

It'd suck to do, but, they make little wire brush and sandpaper drum, etc type attachments for handheld dremel. That'd be my guess since I assume you're trying to avoid the debris of any kind of blasting, and, no converter is guaranteed to get it all

 

[Rktpwrd]

If anyone has any suggestions on how to clean up inside this lip, let me know. It is sorta difficult to get at with the die grinder and even the half inch belt sander won't fit in there.

Yeah, that’s definitely a pretty ignorant area to get into Joe. It’d be messy AF, but if it were me I’d use a spot sandblaster. I have a cheapy version that has a couple of different tip attachments for getting into weird areas like that, I’m sure you could get one similar in your neck of the woods from Harbour Fright.

 

[joesregalproject]

It'd suck to do, but, they make little wire brush and sandpaper drum, etc type attachments for handheld dremel. That'd be my guess since I assume you're trying to avoid the debris of any kind of blasting, and, no converter is guaranteed to get it all

It's gonna suck to do no matter what. Its either gonna be tedious, messy or both. You are correct in your assumption about my hesitancy towards blasting. I've got an extensive dremel arsenal but I'm leaning toward the spot blaster.

Yeah, that’s definitely a pretty ignorant area to get into Joe. It’d be messy AF, but if it were me I’d use a spot sandblaster. I have a cheapy version that has a couple of different tip attachments for getting into weird areas like that, I’m sure you could get one similar in your neck of the woods from Harbour Fright.

Because of the way it is angled inward you just can't reach it with a tool. I hate the thought of blasting just because it is so damn messy and you can never get rid of all the media but I think you are probably right on this one D. There are a few other areas on the car that I should probably bite the bullet and spot blast as well.

 

[ck80]

Because of the way it is angled inward you just can't reach it with a tool.

But, to avoid the blasting which I was presupposing you wanted to avoid, couldn't you take a small wire wheel that looks like this:

[ ]

And trim the bristles to become shaped like this:

/ \

At roughly whatever the angle behind the channel is? Or, similarly, hold a 3m type stripping wheel at an angle while running it to wear the edge down at an angle to be roughly what that surface is, then use it?

Alternative, if you did blast, hold the small spot blaster in one hand, for example, left hand, hitting the surface to be blasted at an angle, while a vacuum source (cheap dustbuster, small low cost vacuum) further down the surface at enough distance away it sucks the media in after it hit the metal, but, before it could make as much mess everywhere? You wouldn't get all of it, but, some of it.

 

[RabbitHoleSS]

I use my used up clean n strip discs. The edge of it is abrasive and rips thru seam sealer and paint with ease too.
Or u can carefully use a cutoff wheel. Thats the method i used on this door. It looks to me like u might have to use the top and edge of the wheel to get it in there tho. This all gets covered anyway right?

used up clean n strips I always save for these tight crevices.

It doesn't get it clean completely but alot less to spot blast out. Tbh we'll never get that seam completely rust free since it's embedded between the layers of metal but I figure if you get enough of it out, epoxy it(inside and out if possible) then seam seal and paint, it should outlast us.
Also If I haven't already recommended buying 3 cheap harbor freight 4.5" grinders, and 2 packs of these
BHA Easy Strip Discs Clean and Remove Paint, Rust and Oxidation 4-1/2” x 7/8” - 5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B8GQ0BW/?tag=gbody-20
I bet I could strip a whole car with 10 of these wheels. By far the most effective tools for stripping panels by hand that I've found. The 3m ones are better, but not by much tbh.