BUICK 1964 Skylark Coupe Project

[joesregalproject]

Yep you guys hit the nail on the head. Old school repair done with pull rods. I'll mig them closed and work the dent a bit more before any filler work.

The SCT is great on the larger areas and it can be manipulated around curves and edges very easily where you could never get an 8 inch grinder. I like that the stripping wheel doesn't clog up with this old, gummy lacquer and it doesn't leave any residue behind.

My biggest complaint is that it is slow to get up to speed, but that's a minor gripe. Doesn't affect the performance of the tool, just slightly annoying.

 

[ck80]

Yep you guys hit the nail on the head. Old school repair done with pull rods. I'll mig them closed and work the dent a bit more before any filler work.

The SCT is great on the larger areas and it can be manipulated around curves and edges very easily where you could never get an 8 inch grinder. I like that the stripping wheel doesn't clog up with this old, gummy lacquer and it doesn't leave any residue behind.

My biggest complaint is that it is slow to get up to speed, but that's a minor gripe. Doesn't affect the performance of the tool, just slightly annoying.

How do you find the heat generation vs how quickly you can move the tool across the surface and remove the paint/filler?

To put it another way, obviously moving quicker across the surface would make less heat at the expense of removing less material. Is Heat buildup/warpage seeming to be a concern for large flat surfaces, especially if you move the tool slowly enough to actually remove the old paint/rust?

 

[joesregalproject]

How do you find the heat generation vs how quickly you can move the tool across the surface and remove the paint/filler?

To put it another way, obviously moving quicker across the surface would make less heat at the expense of removing less material. Is Heat buildup/warpage seeming to be a concern for large flat surfaces, especially if you move the tool slowly enough to actually remove the old paint/rust?

It definitely can get the metal hot, more or less same as a using a grinder. Warping is always a concern when you are introducing heat into the metal but if you keep it moving and don't stay in one spot too long, you are generally fine. I work back and forth and make several passes over the same spot before it is completely stripped.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Is it easier to control on then a flap disc on a grinder? If so, I may pick one up.

 

[joesregalproject]

Is it easier to control on then a flap disc on a grinder? If so, I may pick one up.

I would say depends on the application. Its much bigger than a 4.5" angle grinder but it's not nearly as aggressive. An angle grinder spins around 9-10k rpms, this thing runs around 4-6k.

 

[joesregalproject]

Ran over to HF after work and picked up another bodywork sawhorse. Began stripping paint on the jambs of the fender. For the inside portion where there is surface rust, I think I'm gonna POR-15 and topcoat with some chassis black type paint and call it good. I'm gonna have a friend of mine powder coat the hood hinges.

 

[DRIVEN]

 

[joesregalproject]

Knocked off the majority of the flash rust after work and sprayed primer. I straightened the big dent out a bit, not perfect but good enough for now. Kinda had to spray at an awkward angle but I wanted to get it all in one shot and it's gonna get primed again after I body work it.

 

[joesregalproject]

Hung back on the car, just held in with 2 bolts. Trying to keep things together so I don't wind up with a giant mess of parts in the way.

 

[DRIVEN]