The guy who is busy fiddling with cub cadets this time of year.
BUICK 1964 Skylark Coupe Project
- Thread starter joesregalproject
- Start date
Hey girls. Life's been in the way for the past couple months with funerals, school, work, and some unexpected expenses, I just haven't had a lot of time or money to throw at the car. But I finished up my summer semester course last week and now I've got time and energy to work on the car after work. I was planning on taking another class during the second half of summer but I can use the break so I'm going to hold off till fall.
I was also planning on doing some media blasting but doing so involves pulling favors from people I'd rather not deal with as well as working around their schedules. Because of that, as well as wanting to make some progress, I'm going to go the POR-15 route on some areas. Not my preferred method, but it should work and allow me to make progress on my own timeline.
After work today I pulled the car out, rinsed the dust off it and cleaned the spot in the garage out. I went over to my favorite store, Harbor Freight, and bought the Bauer SCT tool.
I began stripping some paint and body filler on the front right fender that was pretty ugly on top. It works well. Not sure if its the fastest method, but it definitely isn't slow and removes the rust, body filler and paint and leaves a nice uniform, primer-ready surface without removing a ton of metal. I had to stop for the night because I was making too much noise for the rest of the household but I'll probably get some more done tomorrow.
I was also planning on doing some media blasting but doing so involves pulling favors from people I'd rather not deal with as well as working around their schedules. Because of that, as well as wanting to make some progress, I'm going to go the POR-15 route on some areas. Not my preferred method, but it should work and allow me to make progress on my own timeline.
After work today I pulled the car out, rinsed the dust off it and cleaned the spot in the garage out. I went over to my favorite store, Harbor Freight, and bought the Bauer SCT tool.
I began stripping some paint and body filler on the front right fender that was pretty ugly on top. It works well. Not sure if its the fastest method, but it definitely isn't slow and removes the rust, body filler and paint and leaves a nice uniform, primer-ready surface without removing a ton of metal. I had to stop for the night because I was making too much noise for the rest of the household but I'll probably get some more done tomorrow.
And from what I can tell from mine these will also work with Eastwood's drums.
Now that is interesting. If it doesn't violate any personal taboos, what did Harbor Freight ask for it?
The reason I ask is that I presently have a Harbor Freight Chicago Specialties Stud Gun that I am going to have to return somehow because it comes with an unadvertised warning in the instructions that people using or having pacemakers cannot operate the tool due to it generating a frequency that can interfere or badly damage a pacemaker. Since the only way to repair that kind of damage is to undergo open heart surgery, and the probability of death on the table during that work is so high they won't even make book on surviving, well..........................
Anyway,I figure that going with Plan X, whatever that turns out to be is going to be safer but in the mean time I have a perfectly new, never, used, still in the box tool that I have to find some way to return. Thinking they might go for an exchange as opposed to a refund given the time lapse but will not know for sure until i try it.
Nick
The reason I ask is that I presently have a Harbor Freight Chicago Specialties Stud Gun that I am going to have to return somehow because it comes with an unadvertised warning in the instructions that people using or having pacemakers cannot operate the tool due to it generating a frequency that can interfere or badly damage a pacemaker. Since the only way to repair that kind of damage is to undergo open heart surgery, and the probability of death on the table during that work is so high they won't even make book on surviving, well..........................
Anyway,I figure that going with Plan X, whatever that turns out to be is going to be safer but in the mean time I have a perfectly new, never, used, still in the box tool that I have to find some way to return. Thinking they might go for an exchange as opposed to a refund given the time lapse but will not know for sure until i try it.
Nick
I verified this before buying and it definitely adds some versatility to it.
It was $150 American and came with 3 different drums. The drums cost $30 each from HF. Eastwood offers a lot more types of wheels than HF.
9 Amp Surface Conditioning Tool
Amazing deals on this 9A Surface Conditioning Tool at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Outside of the front fender is stripped. I've got it unbolted and just sitting in place. The SCT works very well.
Here's what the ugly body work underneath the cracked body filler looks like.
I also tacked up a couple more pinholes in the underside of the decklid. Need to grind them down yet and skim some filler over them. I'm hoping to spray primer on the decklid and fender at the same time.
Here's what the ugly body work underneath the cracked body filler looks like.
I also tacked up a couple more pinholes in the underside of the decklid. Need to grind them down yet and skim some filler over them. I'm hoping to spray primer on the decklid and fender at the same time.
Whot happened? Some previoius owner read a how to article on generating better alr flow to the brakes to eliminate brake fade due to excessive heat and decided to drill a few "vent" holes?
As for the SCt, it looks like that, with the right grit of drum, it could do a lot faster job of stripping body panels than my DA can and at a cheaper cost in drums vx stick-ons.
Nick
As for the SCt, it looks like that, with the right grit of drum, it could do a lot faster job of stripping body panels than my DA can and at a cheaper cost in drums vx stick-ons.
Nick
In the old Chilton manuals you bought in the 1970s it would show step by step body repair pictures which always recommended drilling sets of holes along the dents to get it back closer to the original shape, before adding bondo on top. Could be just such era of repair work
Holes were drilled for pull rods, common before the stud welders and Lenco dent pullers came on the market. Sure, they should have pulled the fender and worked the dent out, but time is /was money, especailly on "old" cars that weren't particularly valuable (at the time).
Sadly, I've seen that method used by some old-timers as recently as 15 years ago.
That sct looks pretty slick
Sadly, I've seen that method used by some old-timers as recently as 15 years ago.
That sct looks pretty slick
Ugly work but commonly done that way in the 70's. Hardly anyone owned a mig welder back then. Not saying I'd want to fix it that way but in the big picture, look how long the repair lasted.
