Maybe it went on too thick and did that from outgassing? Just spitballing.
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BUICK 1964 Skylark Coupe Project
- Thread starter joesregalproject
- Start date
I know that can be an issue with regular POR-15 and this stuff is just a thicker POR-15. But going on thick is kind of the nature of the material? It doesn't need to be a cosmetic repair, but I want to make sure it adheres properly. I tried calling their tech line and couldn't get through to anyone, so I sent them a message online. Hopefully they get back to me.
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Is it anything like their usual goop that requires a multistep cleaning and etching process treating first before applying over bare steel?
I've put that stuff over dirty spots & never had that issue. Was there anything else nearby that could of been transfered to the car?
Maybe it's an issue of re coating it outside the recommended window? I know there are lots of products that will bubble and or lift if applied to soon or too late after the first coat.
The TDS for this stuff is very, very vague. They don't give much info at all.
I mean, there's always a chance when you do mechanical and body work in the same space, but I don't believe anything touched the car as I literally blasted the area, blew the dust off, rolled it back inside and applied the POR Patch in a span of about 30 minutes. It didn't have much time to get contaminated.
I wish I knew what the recoat window was. The TDS gives you nothing.
Last time I used any of their product was in the... must've been window of around 2000 give or take a year or two.
Back then you had to do whatever rust prep you wanted, but, recommended not to clean shiny metal as adhering to too smooth a surface was an issue. Then, you used a de-greasing type prep solution, then they had something their trade name was iirc 'metal-ready' which left, again, it was a long time ago, but almost a lightly galvanized appearance on thr surface, a white-ish coating. Then after treating that you washed it again with water, let dry good, and finally you coated it and eventually top coated it to protect against uv.
Even blowing off with air some of the blasting material will have embedded into the metal at the microscopic level. Even an air blast won't get it out. And shop air isn't usually perfectly dry/filtered.
Sucks that it'll have to be repeated, but, if it were me at this point I'd probably try to get back to metal, get a rough surface via a sanding disc after any blasting, do my cleaning by hand first with a degreasing surface prep, then use their metal etching prep product that they'll say is compatible, follow all the instruction for it, ams try putting this stuff back on and then topcoat it.
Well they got back to me this morning via email. They said when it does that, it was either put on too heavy or humidity was too high.
So this morning, I ground off as much as I could and blasted over the surface. Apparently when this happens it doesn't affect the integrity of the product because the blaster cleaned the metal but hardly touched the POR.
After that I blew the car off, scrubbed in like a surgeon, put new gloves on, and reapplied in a very thin layer. The pinholes were already filled from the previous coat, but I wanted to give the POR that is filling those pinholes a bit more to hold onto. The humidity is a lot lower today so hopefully I don't see any issues. I'll report back when I get home from work.
So this morning, I ground off as much as I could and blasted over the surface. Apparently when this happens it doesn't affect the integrity of the product because the blaster cleaned the metal but hardly touched the POR.
After that I blew the car off, scrubbed in like a surgeon, put new gloves on, and reapplied in a very thin layer. The pinholes were already filled from the previous coat, but I wanted to give the POR that is filling those pinholes a bit more to hold onto. The humidity is a lot lower today so hopefully I don't see any issues. I'll report back when I get home from work.
POR Patch appeared to work nicely this time. So I guess even though it's a thicker liquid it isn't necessarily supposed to be applied heavier. I'm really just glad that it wasn't a surface contamination issue. I don't need this area to be a cosmetic repair being that it is all hidden but I don't want it failing either.
