1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

I drained the oil, looked black and thin but expected with the top end cleaner. The trans pan had only slightly more clutch material but the amount of metal in the TH350C was quite high and no doubt from whatever was causing the slippage in and out of gear.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Pulled the RPM intake off the Olds 350 going back in the 88 Burnout Machine. I noticed oil was leaking past the intake and pooling. Well it looked just as bad inside. These heads only have a few thousand miles on them. A Performer intake with a 1" aluminum open spacer is going back on this 350. I still need to track down the bad lifter before putting it back together. Everything is removed up top. Pulling everything underneath and probably pulling the governor and modulator valve out of the TH350C. The exhaust except the tailpipes is coming off as well.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Got the dying TH350C that didn't "C" it worthwhile to lock up out and tossed it on a pallet by my garage. I pulled the tail shaft, speedo gears, modulator and governor out. Matchstick dual exhaust and manifolds are off, everything is un hooked, ready to lift the motor out.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well I decided the oil filter adapter and flex plate were in too good of shape. So I dropped the 350 on the floor😞. I usually hook up each chain connection with two bolts. Only one this time, at least it was about a foot from the floor and completely drained, only a tiny bit of green stuff on the floor. Good thing I have both parts from the 260. I found two loose rocker arms. I will remove them one pair at a time inspect make sure the plungers move and lobes are good. Also will clean the intake surfaces and change the broken parts next week.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I may have a line on a 1975 Olds 350 attached to a working 2004R trans. Should easily give 20+ mpg, keep the car mobile. Plus 200 hp beats the hell out the 100 hp turd 260, just couldn't stomach putting it back in anything.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I think the 9 to 1 with 1970 #6 heads and custom cam with stay in the 70S, just matches better. I do have to change the oil pan on my current 350. When it fell, it broke the weld off the inner drain pan nut. The 2004R I picked up was rebuilt at some point, it will get a 2300 stall, Transgo Pump rings and spring, CK shift kit, their GN billet copy servo, 5000 rpm governor, modded by me, 4L60E filter. Fluid that came out looked really good will pull the pan later.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I pulled the pan on the 2004R I picked up. Only a small amount of clutch material, beige gear and similar governor to what most these have. I forgot to make note of the colour of the small speedo drive gear. Most seem to be the black 27 tooth gear but last one was a 26 tooth brown gear. I am planning on a CK pump, shift kit with GN billet servo and my 5000 rpm small weight ground down a pinned so it doesn't pop apart along with my ATR deep pan and 4L60E filter. At what power level is a billet pump rotor necessary?

 

[olds307 and 403]

I received my Performer intake back, intake gasket, Erson roller lifters, Accel 25 ohm wires and ARP head bolts, were supposed to be main studs, no worries. I will probably pick up a 5 main Halo and studs from Mark this Fall, send the 403 block into the machine shop for next Winter. My oldest Daughter got a Summer job that will work towards her degree and it is an hour away. So thinking maybe a convertible Mustang and a new boat at the same time. Of course the car stays with me when she goes back to school.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I plan on getting the 350 pieces back together this weekend. I am saying screw it on ordering CK parts for the 2004R, border situation is too unstable and our dollar is horrible. It is getting the 2300 stall on my shelf, my modified 5000 rpm governor and deep pan. Not doing any seals besides the pan gasket, they all leak anyways. I will probably run a touch more line pressure than stock, should live. The 350 in down compression a bit on two cylinders and I am running manifolds and match stick dual exhaust, not a super power house. I also need to do the master cylinder, soft pedal sometimes. I will probably fight the rear wheel cylinders in as well, one line would not come loose with heat and flat jawed vice grips.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Ever had so many things go wrong that it is funny? Well I pulled the pan on the 350 going back in the 70S, motor fell and broke the weld on the inside nut on the drain plug. I had a tick, actually probably an exhaust leakso I went to an adjustable valve train and over tightened the valves. Well #7 actually broke a push rod, so I went back to the factory non adjustable valve train. I inspected all the cam lobes and lifters. None were flat, hardest lifter to pull was from #7. Still not concave and there was still a lobe left. Also #7 and #8 were down to 110 psi, all the rest were 150 to 152 psi. I did gain back 10 to 15 psi with Kleenflo Combustion Chamber cleaner. Here is what I found.