1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

By the way, still has very good oil pressure.

 

[Clutch]

Ever had so many things go wrong that it is funny? Well I pulled the pan on the 350 going back in the 70S, motor fell and broke the weld on the inside nut on the drain plug. I had a tick, actually probably an exhaust leakso I went to an adjustable valve train and over tightened the valves. Well #7 actually broke a push rod, so I went back to the factory non adjustable valve train. I inspected all the cam lobes and lifters. None were flat, hardest lifter to pull was from #7. Still not concave and there was still a lobe left. Also #7 and #8 were down to 110 psi, all the rest were 150 to 152 psi. I did gain back 10 to 15 psi with Kleenflo Combustion Chamber cleaner. Here is what I found.View attachment 139908

I feel your pain I've had days like that

 

[olds307 and 403]

Clutch, I have had your luck lately. I have the one job in these times that I will never get free time off, fuel truck driver.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Clutch, I have had your luck lately. I have the one job in these times that I will never get free time off, fuel truck driver.

 

[Clutch]

Clutch, I have had your luck lately. I have the one job in these times that I will never get free time off, fuel truck driver.

I'm not off either. And I'm exposed to biohazards lucky me

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well the bendy straw 350 is all back together for the 70S and painted Gold. The 2004R had the exact right speedo gears for my planned tire size and gears. The 4000 rpm governor is staying, added a 4L60E filter and the deep pan I picked up, also still using the 2300 stall.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Got these installed today

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, trans is bolted in. Broke off the engine oil dipstick somehow lightly tapping it in, optimum grey for now. Found I stripped the back bolt on the carb, threads were getting questionable on a couple of holes. I drilled and tapped everything to 3/8".

 

[olds307 and 403]

I got the crossmember, driveshaft, motor mounts and cooler lines attached. Also some trans fluid and antifreeze thrown in, very little split for once. Just torque converter bolts, it's cover and exhaust underneath. Then the fun of a master cylinder and both back wheel cylinders, just did the front a year or so ago. One side, the line wouldn't come loose, getting the bigger torch out. Not looking forward to bleeding the master cylinder.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Torque converter cover on along with the linkage is on. Back line on wheel cylinders just want to twist so new Ni Cad lines on both sides along with the new wheel cylinders on the back, driver's side was leaking quite a bit. Brakes and front wheel cylinders are a year old. The master cylinder came with plugs for bleeding and I bench bled with an engine pushrod. I will probably bleed it again tomorrow to be sure.