1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

Bench bled the master cylinder with the plugs in, rear lines, had to do them each twice to get a decent looking flare and wheel cylinders replaced. I am going to buy a vacuum pump to bled the brakes tomorrow, otherwise betting it will be real b*tch to bleed.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, the 350 runs surprisingly smooth and quite with a bent connecting rod. Also the trans shifts OK for stock calibration and the lock up works. Now the bad. I hooked up the alternator power terminal to a ground stud instead of the power connection, took a minute, know a big spark on ground connection is bad. The oil gauge showed 25 and didn't move. I had another gauge, showed 0 this time. Good flow at the tee going into the hose, definitely oil pressure. Take of the line at the gauge, one drop came out while running. The casing inside must have collapsed, no obvious kinks, grrr. Now the other even bigger issue is basically NO BRAKES! I changed the the rear lines, rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder. I bench bled the master cylinder and even switched back the old master cylinder, only fluid at the front brakes. I even unthreaded the sensor on the distribution valve to try and manually move it with a small screwdriver, a no go. I also try pulling a bunch out of the front wheel cylinders to reset it again a no go. Taking it for test drive was interesting with almost no brakes. I need to figure this mess out. Maybe a new distribution valve or clean out the old one, not sure, kind of pissed.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Still waiting on the the brake bleeder, should be here this week. I decided that my 160 high flow was a better choice than the regular 195. If I had another 180, I would have gone that route, had the 160 sitting here.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Finally had time to hook up the Motive power bleeder. I got a good seal first try 15 inches held empty. I threw on 2 liters as per instructions. I had instant fluid to the back. I bled all 4 corners, got quite a few air bubbles. Pulled it off, pedal feels pretty good and actually stops the car. I need to renew the insurance, top up the radiator and take it for a test drive.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Brakes aren't bad a fair bit of movement before they grab. The front shoes might need set up tighter, I set the rear quite tight. Glad I went with 160 thermostat, around 185. The oil pressure is meh but not as low as the 260.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Had to change the rad cap, was pushing past. It snuck up to 200 with the bad cap, 170 to 185 cruising. Now 160 to 170, might see 180 plus in hot weather. The speedometer is bang on, the trans had the exact right gears as is.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Has anyone seen a axle shift on a car? I have plenty of clearance on the driver's side rear tire. I actually had to grind the lip and stainless trim to clear the outside of the passenger rear tire, was contacting on the outside. A little disturbing to me, the 275/60R15 should have fit.

 

[fleming442]

It "can't" shift in a triangulated 4 link. You can try loosening up the body mounts and shifting it over or, first, double check all the control arm bushings.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well the driver's side measures 2 3/4" from frame to brake drum. The passenger side measures 3 1/2" frame to brake drum. So the passenger side wheel is pushed out 3/4" further. Nothing obvious maybe there was an accident or manufacturing tolerances? I will check the control arm bushings, anything can happen in 50 years.

 

[fleming442]

I know this because the 67 frame is bent, and I have the same problem. One frame rail is shifted 1/4-1/2"; that cocks the control arm mounts enough to extrapolate sideways. I've contemplated pulling the bumpers, loosening the mounts on one side, and chaining it to a stump. I haven't because of the front plate mounts. Alternative plan is to box the 66 F85 frame and swap them.