1970 Olds Cutlass S Rat Rod Style

[olds307 and 403]

So I hooked up my Equus timing light with a tach and strung it through the cab. I have an Autometer tach ordered to work with the Mallory 6AL box. I have the idle set about perfect, 950 in park 700 in gear. It seems I have another governor that shifts at 3000 rpm full throttle, good for this bent rod motor. Also the lock up torque converter drops it exactly 300 rpm. Some claim 200 to 250 rpm, I always find them drop 250 rpm at minimum. Now the last time I ran a 2004R in this car with the same 2300 stall with 235/60R14 it ran at 100 rpm higher than I calculated, 1700 rpm vs 1600 rpm at 60 mph. I am thinking and others have found the same, BFG Radial TA's are shorter than advertised. With the Cooper Cobra radials 275/60R15, I run 1400 rpm at 60 mph, exactly what calculated. Both speedometers were checked with a GPS and right on. Of course the other side effect of the bent rod is I no doubt took out the rod bearing. Until I did that, this motor had exceptional oil pressure. I did slightly flood it the other day and had the choke pull off slightly rich and will probably adjust it slightly more. My point is at warm idle it drops to almost 0 and the oil light flickers on. I will probably drop the oil and put in some fresh 20W50. But honestly the most annoying part of this motor is the tick from the cam. None of the lifters are stuck, all move, checked while it was apart. Nothing is obviously flat but a lobe must be going. I actually ran an adjustable valve train and ran it so tight I bent pushrods, it was still there and still is with new bridges and rocker arms. Either way I will pick up the Ford studs this Summer, just need to figure out if it is the 302 or 351W that has the proper diameter studs that are 1/2 longer for the Halo so I can send the 403 block to the machine shop at the end of Summer.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Better. I have also been having issues with the turn signals. It seems with all the wind and rain, water hit the flasher and no signals. Tried the spare from the trunk, then working and now not working, got back the right side. I will try a new flasher tonight.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Put some fresh 20W50 in and swapped out this ugly looking breather with one that matches better.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So I remember Mark mentioned the SBF main studs were a 1/2" longer than Olds replacements. He accidentally sent me 7/16" ARP head bolts. Not the end of the world, I have two 350's. I figured out the the 221 through 302 has the 7/16" mains like 1-4 on the SBO. The 351W has 1/2" mains. I paid less with shipping through Amazon then Summit's price before shipping. I plan on dropping off the block in August at the machine shop, studs should be here mid July. I also did some cosmetic things to the 70S. I removed one button in the driver's side seat. It would always catch and pull out and wear the top out. Ivory silicone filled the hole and matched the pearl interior near perfect, looks a lot better. I also reguled one rear window moulding. I plan on washing it and taking it to the neighbouring city today.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So I washed the 70S, looked pretty good for a horrible paint job on a rotted car. The good, no overheating, only a tiny amount of oil used and the fuel gauge hardly moved. I will figure out the mileage this week, betting mid 20's. The bad, crappy oil pressure, no doubt from the bent rod, less than stellar performance, really shitty idle along with the lifter clatter and a squeak, maybe the alternator belt yet again, 5th time is the charm. I was just about home and a R/T Challenger passed me. I was delayed in my reaction but I had no chance to repass him, way out classed in power. It reinforces I need the 9.6 to 1 roller cam Olds 424, manual valve body 4L80E and at least 3.42 gears. I also hate the stock calibration 2004R with the stock 3000 rpm governor. I have the TV cable in the max position, full TV pull and there is no slippage occuring. I wonder if the converter is dying, it engages instantly in gear but needs a little throttle to get moving. It is a mild stall, flashes at 2300 or did before. The block is going to the machine shop soon, I need to spend some dollars and get the drive train how I want it.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well 17 mpg calculated, not great but the motor is heading south. More annoying is the valve train tick. Probably will take it to Yorkton again tomorrow.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, it still has a steady squeak at speed, just loud enough to be annoying, goes away pretty much below 30 mph. Sounds like it is on the driver's side. I checked both drums for temperature, felt the same. I repacked the bearings when I did the front brakes. I may try soap on the belts to help eliminate them. I will Jack up the front end and spin by the wheels by hand, need to check brake adjustment anyways, maybe a tiny rock in the brakes but usually that is amplified hitting the brakes, no difference. Maybe the speedometer? I have had that happen in other cars, a less steady sound than this. My Wife said it sounded like I had a little bird in car.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I adjusted all 4 brakes tighter to the drums. That smartened up the pedal pretty good, brakes start applying nearly right away compared to half way down. There some play in the lower shock bushings and upper control arm bushings on the rear end. Both have a small gap on the inside of the bushings maybe enough to move everything?Should probably get adjustable uppers and new rear shocks. I also recieved my main studs. Pretty sure I needed the 1/2" longer studs, thought basic 302 studs would be long enough. Did Olds and Ford work together on design their SB V8's, rocker arms and main studs interchange. They are the perfect length as you can see by the pictures. Maybe I will keep them for another build or mill the caps. The whole point of the longer studs was to not mill the caps. I may just get the 1/2" longer 302 studs and use these with my 350 block, I already have 7/16" ARP head bolts, nearly fresh 2.05"/1.56" #6 heads and a 330 crank for it.

 

[olds307 and 403]

The other I did was grease the front and look at the oil leaks. The Edelbrock M/T copy aluminum valve covers look pretty but have given repeated grief for leaks even with the now discontinued Felpro permadry valve covers and Rocket Racing rubber valve cover gaskets with the rigid carrier. This time I used the used the Right Stuff on the head side putting the most worn out side on the head side with the Permadry gaskets. Still the same seeping/small drips on both sides, clearly coming between the gasket and cover. The trans pan looks really good, a relief, the last Hughes deep pan. The selector shaft seal is leaking, last 3 2004R'S have done this. Also the speedometer gear, another common one and the weep hole at yoke, that one is confusing. I am thinking about building the 2004R with all the good parts. With a 9.5 to 1 roller cam 424, 2004R and 3.90 gears, only the hottest new cars would lay it out. By the time I add up a $500 minimum used 4L80E along with a manual speedo conversion, controller and a good converter is easily at 2 grand with a used questionable trans and less than ideal gearing. The 2004R with the best gearing of any 4 spd OD trans just needs the $400 DR Dan converter and about a 2 grand CK kit along with whatever trans tools I need and a lot of time, careful measurements and assembly. I could maybe try a used TH350 with a Transgo shift kit dual feeding to give it any chance. I saw how long a TH350 lasted with a smogger 454 swap in a Camaro, not long. The next one with the shift kit lasted pretty well under heavy abuse. It would still need something like the Jegs affordable 2300-2700 stall converter. The TH400 is an option used but the driveshaft difference is a killer. Not like these cars are littering the junk yards anymore and finding a BBO car is even harder. I do have a spare 80's big car drive shaft that could be shortened but a 32 spline yoke and conversion U joints, making it hundreds of dollars. Another and the biggest PIA part of the 4L80E swaps well. I can get this motor done this year, the trans is more difficult. The Type O 3.90 gears and a good posi is also another $1000 bill with me doing it. A high performance motor swap is easy, when big torque is made, the rest of the car becomes a problem.

 

[olds307 and 403]

So 302 main studs fit an Olds 260 through 403, 1 through 4. I am not too worried about 5 being 1/2"
bolts, no doubt similar in strength to the ARP 1 through 4, 7/16" studs. I have actually cracked a cap going to 130 ft/lbs but not broke a bolt, that torque wrench read 10 ft/lbs high, found that out after the fact and the spec was 110, not 120. The longer 302 studs for a girdle arrived, here are the results. Also should I blast off that paint that dripped on the block before machining? I already brushed on paint stripper.