1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon - G-T-faux (stuck with it, and can't shake it... like a bad case of herpes)

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Electrical Tape, I I keep multiple tubes of superglue. Just opened my thumb up like a hotdog in a microwave too long. Some super glue, and butterflies later that night.
 
Electrical Tape, I I keep multiple tubes of superglue. Just opened my thumb up like a hotdog in a microwave too long. Some super glue, and butterflies later that night.
Agreed. I'm a big fan of liquid bandaid (superglue with a brush).
 
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At the risk of being accused of playing favourites I did a G-body thing today. You can see the modified back cover, I have no idea why I cut it - I am guessing LS swap problems. Also it seems to have had the guts cooked out of the rear bearing.

PXL_20210910_201556269.jpg


One thing is for damn sure, this engine has gone through countless alternators over the last 15 years. It seems like it's Achilles heel.


Under the circumstances getting the alternator swapped out this afternoon is pretty good - considering everything else that is going on.
 
Men doing man things manly.

Natasha almost had kittens when she saw the gash... then said something about stitches and started rubbing my back while I was swapping the battery to which I said: Please stop you are distracting me. I must have looked like this:

Lord Of The Rings Bridezilla GIF by HBO Max


She really is awesome. And I still have a trickle of bloody running down my head - I should have rubbed dirt on it rather than Polysporin - my mistake

I got a similar gash on my scalp years ago sliding under my trailer. Luckily I had a hat on, but all the more impressive how I was able to blow right through it. When I took the hat off it made a mess on the garage floor, but a minute or 2 with some frozen peas on it and I was back on my way again. Amazing for how much they bleed a scalp wound's ability to plug itself back shut again.
 
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I got a similar gash on my scalp years ago sliding under my trailer. Luckily I had a hat on, but all the more impressive how I was able to blow right through it. When I took the hat off it made a mess on the garage floor, but a minute or 2 with some frozen peas on it and I was back on my way again. Amazing for how much they bleed a scalp wound's ability to plug itself back shut again.

It's evolution baby!

 
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So, after much consideration it seems that I preparing (myself?) to sell the wagon. I figure it can go one of three ways:

1. As-is: HCI LS1, 4L80E, S60, big brakes, fancy suspension, nice wheels, nitrous, etc;
2. Basic LS swap: 5.3L, 200-4R, 8.5, stock brakes and suspension from the Monte and some decent wheels; or
3. A roller: pretty self-explanatory.

The market for opton #1 is limited as no one is going to be willing to pay close to what the wagon is worth on paper ($45,000 CDN) in practical dollars. That is understandable.

Option #2 is a coin flip. I can probably get the asking price well under $20K CDN. But, now it is just a basic swap and it is less desirable - as being over the top is what makes a Lemans Safari acceptable. I didn't even crack $15K when I sold my Turbo Buick.

Option #3. Is probably the most practical for all parties and the market. A rust free sub-$10K chassis presents more options to prospective buyers.

I can take whatever parts and money left over to pump into the Monte and Camaro... and getting new fabrication tools. The rationale here is that fleet management isn't fun, and I don't drive enough these days to justify all of these cars.
 
So, after much consideration it seems that I preparing (myself?) to sell the wagon. I figure it can go one of three ways:

1. As-is: HCI LS1, 4L80E, S60, big brakes, fancy suspension, nice wheels, nitrous, etc;
2. Basic LS swap: 5.3L, 200-4R, 8.5, stock brakes and suspension from the Monte and some decent wheels; or
3. A roller: pretty self-explanatory.

The market for opton #1 is limited as no one is going to be willing to pay close to what the wagon is worth on paper ($45,000 CDN) in practical dollars. That is understandable.

Option #2 is a coin flip. I can probably get the asking price well under $20K CDN. But, now it is just a basic swap and it is less desirable - as being over the top is what makes a Lemans Safari acceptable. I didn't even crack $15K when I sold my Turbo Buick.

Option #3. Is probably the most practical for all parties and the market. A rust free sub-$10K chassis presents more options to prospective buyers.

I can take whatever parts and money left over to pump into the Monte and Camaro... and getting new fabrication tools. The rationale here is that fleet management isn't fun, and I don't drive enough these days to justify all of these cars.
These self-realizations you came to are sound, financial logic. It's quite opposite usually from "motor-logic".

It also can be used as an underpinning of an axiom that I've always adhered to and that's the further you get away from stock, the more limited your serious buying audience. As a roller, your car will be its closest to stock it'll every get again, opening up your options as well as the buyer's. Which now, you'd have to figure out what to do with all the extra go-parts you removed. Sell, use? WTF? A new set of problems nobody should envy.

Selling a car is never easy, and it's tougher if it's a car you really like. Worse if you have to part one to sell it. Putting a value on it that's both reasonable and equitable is a major headache even if you've sold 40 cars in a month. You say that $45K Canadian probably won't be realized or small chance of it happening. But sell the roller for 8 or 9 K and you'll still would need to make up another 35K or so to sell it all for what you say it should cost on paper. That's a tall order for "used" parts.

As a suggestion, start with option #1. This way you have no labor involved, and nothing else really to do to the car. See if there's any fish willing to take the bait. You may be pleasantly surprised. Be willing to negotiate a little, as labor (excuse me, as y'all would say "labour" 🙂 ) would be saved taking the car apart. And labor time is of some value to you. Or should be.

If that doesn't work, if you find someone remotely interested but balking at the price, you could ask them about option #2. They'd still get a driveable car, and you could still make a few bucks. BUT- it's risky. It's an odd arrangement so the chance it worked would be low, I'm afraid.

I say risky because it's just easier to go from option #1 to option #3 and save having to put stuff back together all the way.

Free advice. Worth nothing if you don't use any of it. First-world problems is all.
 
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