1980 Pontiac LeMans Station Wagon - G-T-faux (stuck with it, and can't shake it... like a bad case of herpes)

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I finished renotching the frame and the compressor fits like a glove now. One of my main objectives has been to maintain accessibility to OEM parts in this build what with so many pieces coming from a donor 4th Gen F-body - because who wants to try and service a car with one-off parts while out on a road trip? Not me. I want to be able to call up any jobber and get bits and pieces with relative ease and little delay.

With this in mind we are using a hybrid system of F-body and G-body AC parts. The main lines coming off the compressor are factory F-body - these will likely be the main failure point down the road - and are easy to find. I spliced in the hard lines from a Grand National from the Receiver/Dryer and the Condenser using the F-body connectors. This allowed me to integrate the 4th Gen Pressure Valve. Interestingly the Evaporator already had the "blue" Ford hi-flow orifice tube in it - so I kept it as it only had 5000 miles on it and was clean. Also, I decided to use the OEM style condenser vs. the Spectra replacement since it is rumored to exchange heat better due its size, volume, and fin density.

Mocked up the heater lines, I want to put a mechanical bypass valve in place later on - probably just use a ball valve and brass tees.

I also built some double flare to -6 AN adapter fittings to connect the F-body trans cooler lines to the aftermarket bits. Nothing to crazy, just some drilling and tapping.

And one header is hung using Stage 8 locking header bolts, I imagine this thing will try and rattle them free.
 

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because who wants to try and service a car with one-off parts while out on a road trip? Not me, I want to be able to call up any jobber and get bits and pieces with relative ease and little delay.

This is a very wise attitude in my estimation. My brother and I took the same approach on his LS Swapped 78 Z28. There are a few things we couldn't avoid but we really tried to stick to production stuff as much as possible.

What's the story on the Ford blue orifice tube? Works better with R134A? I'm in the middle of replacing my heater core and EVAP core so hopefully it won't be too, too long before I'm ready to install the orifice tube and the liquid line. Right now, I just have the stock white orifice tube as I read bad things about the optional automatic adjusting orifice tube for hot climates (freezing up of the low side).

By the way, you do nice work. I enjoy following along with your thread.
 
This is a very wise attitude in my estimation. My brother and I took the same approach on his LS Swapped 78 Z28. There are a few things we couldn't avoid but we really tried to stick to production stuff as much as possible.

What's the story on the Ford blue orifice tube? Works better with R134A? I'm in the middle of replacing my heater core and EVAP core so hopefully it won't be too, too long before I'm ready to install the orifice tube and the liquid line. Right now, I just have the stock white orifice tube as I read bad things about the optional automatic adjusting orifice tube for hot climates (freezing up of the low side).

By the way, you do nice work. I enjoy following along with your thread.

Thanks! Here is what I understand the benefits to be: http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview.cfm?catid=2&threadid=13008 Roasting the wife and kids in traffic is a bad idea.

Orifice Tube Color Chart

Ford
FOT Color/Orifice Size

Blue .067"
Red .062"
Orange .057"
Green .052"
Brown .047"

General Motors
FOT Color/Orifice Size

White .072"
Black/White .072"

I have a new White and White Black (from a 4th Gen) orifice tubes on the shelf too.

Our wagon came from Kansas and I can only imagine how warm those Midwest summers get. The car had a 134A conversion at the time of purchase with a very large compressor on it.
 
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Got some more stuff painted, bolted on, and fabricated this weekend. Wire, cable, hose and tube management is a huge time consumer - the only reward is not having stuff wear through at a later date; call it reliability. Had a huge issue fitting the DS cat on the header thanks to the G-Force crossmember being in the way (again), granted this is a byproduct of the motor mount adapter plates moving the engine up and the Hooker headers being designed for a set of motor mounts (Hooker's own) that would set the engine lower, and that I modified the aforementioned G-Force crossmember - just another victim of stacking tolerances. This forced me to build an S-pipe to reorient the cat down to and to the inside (about 1/2" - 3/4"); however, the side benefit is that I found a home for the WBO2 sensor.

I still have to find the parts (and means) to connect the ignition lockout switch from the column.
 

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You need the COMPLETE dual exhaust conversion kit that includes a new driver's side floor pan with more clearance...
 
You need the COMPLETE dual exhaust conversion kit that includes a new driver's side floor pan with more clearance...

Does that include a 10lb sledgehammer and pneumatic bottle jack?
 
The more expensive version of the kit comes with a form that you put on top of that bottle jack - simply lift the car to recontour the floor. The deposit is hefty, though - the guy only has one form and he wants it back for the next customer....

😀
 
Elephant penis intake complete.
 

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