Longroof79 said:Looks good man.
How were you able to make the filler piece fit close to flush with the surrounding tailgate? I cut out a piece of 18 ga. metal to fit the opening, bent and tweaked it so it conformed with the shape. But it tends to sit slightly lower than the flanged portion of the tailgate. I'd hate like hell to have to fill it with 5lbs of bondo in order to flow with the shape of the tailgate.
I'm not trying to be critical. Just trying to learn something. 🙂
=========================================================================================================LSCustoms said:Longroof79 said:Looks good man.
How were you able to make the filler piece fit close to flush with the surrounding tailgate? I cut out a piece of 18 ga. metal to fit the opening, bent and tweaked it so it conformed with the shape. But it tends to sit slightly lower than the flanged portion of the tailgate. I'd hate like hell to have to fill it with 5lbs of bondo in order to flow with the shape of the tailgate.
I'm not trying to be critical. Just trying to learn something. 🙂
not quite understanding what you are asking me... can you clarify your question?
dont mind the questions, just wanna make sure i know what you are talking about, when you say "filler piece" are you talkin about the entire roll pan piece. are you talking about the top of it being flush with the bottom of the tailgate, or am i still missing your question, mine sits pretty flush and i lessened the gap between them, is their a pic i have that illustrates your point?Longroof79 said:I guess what I was trying to say is, the piece of sheetmetal used to fill the opening seems to fit lower than the flanged opening of the tailgate. Therefore, wouldn't it take more body filler to level out the filled area and tailgate?
Unless of course the flange area was trimmed away and the sheetmetal piece was butt welded to the tailgate.
Perhaps I'm making more of an issue out of it. Thanks for bearing with me. 🙂
you must be talking about just the license plate piece?Longroof79 said:I guess what I was trying to say is, the piece of sheetmetal used to fill the opening seems to fit lower than the flanged opening of the tailgate. Therefore, wouldn't it take more body filler to level out the filled area and tailgate?
Unless of course the flange area was trimmed away and the sheetmetal piece was butt welded to the tailgate.
Perhaps I'm making more of an issue out of it. Thanks for bearing with me. 🙂
16ga would prob work better here, but even with any piece of metal after cutting it to the contour of the bigger hole, not the countersunk part... you want to tack it flush, not flat against the inner piece, so even if you piece is thinner than the lip, you can use a magnet to hold the edges flush and then tack it, does that make sense?Longroof79 said:Looks good man.
How were you able to make the filler piece fit close to flush with the surrounding tailgate? I cut out a piece of 18 ga. metal to fit the opening, bent and tweaked it so it conformed with the shape. But it tends to sit slightly lower than the flanged portion of the tailgate. I'd hate like hell to have to fill it with 5lbs of bondo in order to flow with the shape of the tailgate.
I'm not trying to be critical. Just trying to learn something. 🙂
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