1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham

Next step is installing a 8.5 - 3.73 posi rearend. That will help a lot on acceleration and still be freeway-friendly with the overdrive transmission! 🙂


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So about the 8.5 diff, I'll need to re-install LS1 caliper brackets, because the previous guy (from whom I bought the diff) had mistakenly installed the brackets "in front" of the differential shaft. Those brackets are really neat, well installed, and mounting the caliper clears the disk alright -- so I'm using these old brackets as a template to create the rear brackets. I'll have a shop machine a properly-sized rectangular 1-8" plate, with a 2.5" diameter hole, split in two. And then, some welding will happen.
 
Trying to understand how-when-if the lockup converter is triggered. I re-used the OEM setup (a mysterious wire) that triggered the lockup on the TH-200. From what I see, I could hook up a light on the wire that goes to the transmission. I could leave that light right on the floor at first, just to see how-when-if it lights up. And then, wire something more formal in the dash, -- there's always the WAIT light in the dash that could be converted to LOCKUP 🙂 If the OEM lockup setup does not work, I have a B&M lockup unit with adjustable speed.
 
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Trying to understand how-when-if the lockup converter is triggered. I re-used the OEM setup (a mysterious wire) that triggered the lockup on the TH-200. From what I see, I could hook up a light on the wire that goes to the transmission. I could leave that light right on the floor at first, just to see how-when-if it lights up. And then, wire something more formal in the dash, -- there's always the WAIT light in the dash that could be converted to LOCKUP 🙂 If the OEM lockup setup does not work, I have a B&M lockup unit with adjustable speed.
Being a Canadian car it should be hooked up to a vacuum switch tied in with the brake pedal.
 
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Being a Canadian car it should be hooked up to a vacuum switch tied in with the brake pedal.
I wired the transmission, got the loose/unplugged wires inside the cabin, so I will be able to experiment. Including using the existing wire from the vaccum switch.

I also replaced the speedometer cable, it was almost dead and the fastener/aluminium ring was broken.
 

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The lockup converter on the 200-4R with the low diff 2.x gears get the RPM to about 1100 on the highway at 60mph. Right now, I control overdrive by pluging an extension in the cig lighter 🙂 More sh*t to be investigated on that front so that it becomes a bit more automatic !

The RPM will make a bit more sense with the 3.42 diff I will swap soo(ish). Or is it a 3.73 I have in my basement? It's been so long.

On a different note, I will change the wiper motor, was stuck in a very sudden & heavy shower yesterday, and the speed of the blades against the windshield was ridiculously slow. Bought on Summitracing. Soon to be delivered.
 
You must have super low 2.xx gears. I run 1380 locked up at 60 mph with 28" tall tires with 2.78 gears.
 
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Starting to remove chrome trim, preparing to paint... "some" rust found beneath!

(using our picnic table as a cool chrome trim sorting & labeling area! but don't tell my girlfriend!)
 

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The best trick ever to remove these chrome pieces from rusty fender lips is to use a torch to apply some heat -- 5 seconds is enough. Makes a world of difference... between smooth removal vs stripping the head of the fastener 🙂
 

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Oh failed design! I will sue Oldsmobile (ahah!) for that missing fastener! Observed on both sides of the car, so it's "per design".
 

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