Thanks for the advice but with a full doner car I cant see why it would be to much work plus with a fresh rebuilt on trans and engine regular maintence wouldnt be to hard. On the other hand I want a loud v8 haha or at least a low rumble that is loud when you nail it to the floor.
"a low rumble that is loud when you nail it to the floor". Sounds like You want straight thru type muffs in a large case with the H pipe & tail pipes ideally slightly smaller than the pipe comming back from your manifolds or header collectors & slightly smaller than what is going thru your muffs. Straight thru muffs like Magnaflows or Walker Ultra flows or even an off brand but large case and strainght thru type design. These are also generally the least restrictive especially relative to sound control. Flowmasters don't flow as good as straight thru type and have more trouble with resonance or drone at cruise rpm but do have that "patented flowmaster sound," they are louder at idle cruise and often slightly louder at WOT. Turbo flows flow better than stock sound better than stock and are cheap but they do rust out & cost HP compared to a straight thru design.
Most mail order systems pipes are set up for best fit to center inlet offset outlet muffs. If you are buying a bolt up pipe system to use with the muffs & tail pipes of your choice. The simple H or crossover pipe balances & lowers pressure. It deters resonance mellows & lowers idle & low rpm cruising sound but not WOT sound. Its even proven to free up a few horsies. Its also not as particular to get right like an X pipe and doesn't get in the way to remove a transmission like an X often does.
I used Magnaflow unpolished universals on my 442. Stainless steel with welded not crimped ends & a special packing material that does not hold water rust or burn out so its a one time ever purchase. You still need stainless pipes & hangers if you want that part of your system to not rust in salty winter climates. 5x8x18 oval case fits our gbody floor in the recess of the rear seat just before the axle. I like model 12259 as its 3" in & out but you can still use a 2.5 tail pipe. Or use model 12256 2.5" in & out with 2.25" tail pipes. If your pipes don't come with a crossover you or the shop you have hang the system can easily add a simple cross over in the same size pipe as your tail pipes. The reason the slightly smaller tail pipes increase flow is that as gases cool on their way out they contract or shrink in volume and slow thus the smaller tail pipes keeps the overall system velocity up and back pressure down. Otherwise the faster moving hot gasses end up trying to push out the slower cooler gases.
Well to get some good sound i suggest to go first with some headers then you pick what exhaust system you would like. I personally like Flowmaster, they have that aggressive sound at idle and they just yell when all 4 barrels are opened 8) . My car has flowmaster 40's with headers and a true dual exhaust system. Heres an idea of what it would sound like. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdHD6Dj ... ature=plcp Thats my car with the setup i just described. Sounds badass doesnt it? 😛
Whats the cheapest way to drop a 350 into these cars ?? I'm looking for reliblity and millage as well as a classic muscle car sound. If I go with the 350 should I go all out crate motor so I know the engine will last and have warranty? What type of exhaust should I go with to get a mean sounding car and what cam?? another factor is Gas millage Can I get at least around 20-22 with a 350 and TH350 Trans?
What should my price be for a build like this around 6000?? for everything?
I get 22 in my GN with 60% hwy keeping my foot out of the turbo with a 200-4R. Better is achievable but what fun is that?
I have gotten 17.0 hwy with the 509 with Q-jet, 200-4R, & working lock up converter.
A bigger motor loses a little to additional pumping loses and fuel injection is worth a little over an simple inexpensive tuned Q-jet but generally it takes the same power ie fuel burnt to propel the same car down the road at the same speed. Its in tune & gearing.
I suspect on the same trip I would have gotten 12 mpg hwy with the three speed no lock up and the same gears. That or you can put in taller gears with an old three speed and get most of that mileage back but you will sacrifice a lot of acceleration.
Typical 350 with three speed & square bore carb gets about 14 mpg. Whatever mileage is ordinarily with the same gears in the 3.08 to 3.73 range you can figure you will get on average about 33% better fuel economy out of the OD a little more with the addition of a Q-jet. In my case for my 442 build mpg was a distant secondary benefit for going the OD route.
I get 22 with my GN with mostly hwy keeping my foot out of the turbo & with a 200-4R. I have gotten 17.0 hwy with the 509 with Q-jet, 200-4R, & working lock up converter. I suspect on the same trip I would have gotten 12 mpg hwy with the three speed no lock up and the same gears. That or you can put in taller gears with an old three speed and get most of that mileage back but you will sacrifice a lot of acceleration. Typical 350 with three speed & square bore carb gets about 14 mpg.
I've heard of 455's getting 22 Mpgs have you ever heard of anything like that and would that likely be on a 4 speed OD? Also when doing a swap to a sbc or sbo the best way to get engine mounts and all the accesories would be to buy a doner? I'm really leaning towarads a sbc 350 with a 200r4 I'm hoping to make it a 300-400 HP car mabey run 12's 1/4
Also when doing a swap to a sbc or sbo the best way to get engine mounts and all the accesories would be to buy a doner? I'm really leaning towarads a sbc 350 with a 200r4 I'm hoping to make it a 300-400 HP car mabey run 12's 1/4
BOP has a point and the torquey Buick 350 seemed to me to often be a little better on fuel the other three 350s most likely because of the small bore long stroke arrangement that brought in torque early so that it didn't require as much throttle opening to run with the flow of traffic.
I think Bob got in the high 15 mpgs on his last trip & 12.3 @ 110 mph before his car was stolen. But he had a fair amount of cam which had to cost some fuel economy and he was still tuneing. As mentioned I got 17.0 hwy with a larger 509 with a 12.5 @ 109 without tuneing. The low 20s can be gotten but should not be expected. Below is another great link for building a 455 Olds Gbody real street car. Its also an OD car with a Q-jet. But keep in mind Dwight is a professional mechanic a perfectionist on tuning IMO and got exceptional power & economy from the relatively small cam. ie 12.0 @ 112 and 21mpg hwy.
I have always maintained that by the time you cam & spin the snot out of a small block & crutch it along with low gears and a big stall converter to run with a big block car that it will eat at least as much fuel. It will also have a higher maintenance & shorter life between rebuilds negating any money you saved on the initial build as compared to the bb. If you are satisfied with a slower car then the sb will be cheaper.
If you spend some time on the links I supplied you can learn lots and get great insight from exceptional & practical hot rodders who can think for themselves instead of following the heard.
I get 22 with my GN with mostly hwy keeping my foot out of the turbo & with a 200-4R. I have gotten 17.0 hwy with the 509 with Q-jet, 200-4R, & working lock up converter. I suspect on the same trip I would have gotten 12 mpg hwy with the three speed no lock up and the same gears. That or you can put in taller gears with an old three speed and get most of that mileage back but you will sacrifice a lot of acceleration. Typical 350 with three speed & square bore carb gets about 14 mpg.
I've heard of 455's getting 22 Mpgs have you ever heard of anything like that and would that likely be on a 4 speed OD? Also when doing a swap to a sbc or sbo the best way to get engine mounts and all the accesories would be to buy a doner? I'm really leaning towarads a sbc 350 with a 200r4 I'm hoping to make it a 300-400 HP car mabey run 12's 1/4
No need for a donor car. For a sbo, move fuel lines & battery to opposite side, find Someone on here with gbody olds v8 frame motor pads, buy some motor mounts at parts store for a gbody with a 307 or 260 olds, get a gbody v8 radiator & fan shroud. Basically the same for sbc, just get the Chevy parts. Really not a bad swap, I went from a 3.8 Buick like you and went to a '69 sbo 350. Also, a sb Buick would be a direct swap for u other than radiator & shroud. So, a 350 Buick could be an easy option for ya...Don't forget to put v8 springs up front.
I really like your cutlass so dont leave us hanging let us know when you decide what you're going to do! 🙂
You should be able to run a 350 for less than $6k unless you need a trans too. If that's the case your figure is about right, unless you are a very thrifty shopper in which case you can easily cut that figure nearly in half. Don't count your dad out - he may have some friends w/ car parts which didn't previously occur to you. You will save big money if you can 'come up' on the little things like supports, bolts, the battery mount & terminal cables, alternator, belts etc. These things start to really add up $$$$ super fast and take away from the end result if you let them get out of control. Make sure you sit down one day and realllly brainstorm anybody that might have this type of bs laying around from an old build / wreck and then follow through on stopping by one day & bargain them down. Give them the whole 'come on this thing has been here for years nobody is coming to buy it in the rest of your lifetime if I walk away right now' speach 🙂
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