1987 Olds Pro-touring project build - Now with paint
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Re: 1987 Olds Pro-touring project build *LONG*
You are my freaking hero, i have had 8 cutlasses and built up 4 of them and have spent thousands upon thousands of dollars and can say that you make mine look like crap and i was proud of each and every one of them. That is one of the best looking g bodies i have ever seen and its not even done. congratulations on the work. Keep the pics coming.
You are my freaking hero, i have had 8 cutlasses and built up 4 of them and have spent thousands upon thousands of dollars and can say that you make mine look like crap and i was proud of each and every one of them. That is one of the best looking g bodies i have ever seen and its not even done. congratulations on the work. Keep the pics coming.
Re: 1987 Olds Pro-touring project build *LONG*
a very cleen build. noticed that you have your fuel pressure regulator on the fire wall. im just finishing my engine build and was planing on the same spot. was told that if i planed on ever running the car down the track it would have to be moved. nhra rules state something like no fuel lines or regulators ca be mounted within 6'' of the firewall.
a very cleen build. noticed that you have your fuel pressure regulator on the fire wall. im just finishing my engine build and was planing on the same spot. was told that if i planed on ever running the car down the track it would have to be moved. nhra rules state something like no fuel lines or regulators ca be mounted within 6'' of the firewall.
Re: 1987 Olds Pro-touring project build *LONG*
Correct, and my regulator is 6" forward of the firewall.
Although I'm sure I'll get flack for it but the one local track I go to doesn't really care. I'm not going to be running this car in anything more than test and tune nights.
This picture kind of shows how far out from the firewall it is:
If I have a clutch/flywheel explosion, the shrapnel is going to have to make it through the SFI blowproof bellhousing as well as the cylinder block to even come close to hitting the regulator.
I guess I'll find out if the safety techs agree one of these days.
454cutlass said:
Correct, and my regulator is 6" forward of the firewall.
Although I'm sure I'll get flack for it but the one local track I go to doesn't really care. I'm not going to be running this car in anything more than test and tune nights.This picture kind of shows how far out from the firewall it is:
If I have a clutch/flywheel explosion, the shrapnel is going to have to make it through the SFI blowproof bellhousing as well as the cylinder block to even come close to hitting the regulator.
I guess I'll find out if the safety techs agree one of these days.
Re: 1987 Olds Pro-touring project build *LONG*
Well, I picked up my driveshaft from the driveline shop today. They said it was some of the nicest parts they've ever dealt with.
I had bought a pair of Strange Engineering 1350 series weld yokes and a 60" long 3"x.083" wall chrome moly tubing also from Strange.
Took everything to them on Monday with the measurements they told me to take.
Got it back today:
However, I went to bolt it up and it's too long! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I could bolt it up fine, but as you can see in the one picture above, it has no room for play at all.
So I'll have to take it back on Monday and hopefully they'll fix it for next to nothing.
I had given them a measurement of 52.25" which was from the face of the transmissions tailhousing to the flat of the pinion yoke. They told me they would take into account my trans yoke that I provided and would then compensate and cut the tubing to the proper length.
I guess I should have taken a few more measurements just to make sure they knew what I was dealing with.
Oh well, at least I was able to get one of my parking brakes setup and working with the LS1 disc brakes!
Well, I picked up my driveshaft from the driveline shop today. They said it was some of the nicest parts they've ever dealt with.
I had bought a pair of Strange Engineering 1350 series weld yokes and a 60" long 3"x.083" wall chrome moly tubing also from Strange.
Took everything to them on Monday with the measurements they told me to take.
Got it back today:
However, I went to bolt it up and it's too long! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I could bolt it up fine, but as you can see in the one picture above, it has no room for play at all.
So I'll have to take it back on Monday and hopefully they'll fix it for next to nothing.
I had given them a measurement of 52.25" which was from the face of the transmissions tailhousing to the flat of the pinion yoke. They told me they would take into account my trans yoke that I provided and would then compensate and cut the tubing to the proper length.
I guess I should have taken a few more measurements just to make sure they knew what I was dealing with.
Oh well, at least I was able to get one of my parking brakes setup and working with the LS1 disc brakes!
Re: 1987 Olds Pro-touring project build *LONG*
Any info on your LS1 setup with working parking brakes? That sucks to see on the driveshaft. I had to get one made for my car and it was a very very nerve racking 2 hours hoping they got the length right. It literally took 5 minutes for me to get it out of my truck and installed on the car. Such a relief that it fit.I would say take maybe 1.5 to 2 inches out of it the way it sits right now.
Any info on your LS1 setup with working parking brakes? That sucks to see on the driveshaft. I had to get one made for my car and it was a very very nerve racking 2 hours hoping they got the length right. It literally took 5 minutes for me to get it out of my truck and installed on the car. Such a relief that it fit.I would say take maybe 1.5 to 2 inches out of it the way it sits right now.
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Re: 1987 Olds Pro-touring project build *LONG*
I'll get pictures up later this weekend hopefully. I essentially found a couple of clevis brackets on Ebay that were listed as fitting a Mopar of some sort. The seller said there were rare, blah blah blah. I didn't really care since I was going to cut them up.
If they were rare, there's probably some mopar guy out there looking for an original set and here I am hacking them apart. :lol:
Yeah, luckily it was too long and not too short. I'm going to take it up to my machinist friend tomorrow and have him remove the trans yoke. Then I'm going to put the yoke in the trans and pull it out the 1" it should have and measure that way and compare it to the driveshaft length. Just so that I have as much information as I can when I go back over there Monday.
79loserbluebu said:
I'll get pictures up later this weekend hopefully. I essentially found a couple of clevis brackets on Ebay that were listed as fitting a Mopar of some sort. The seller said there were rare, blah blah blah. I didn't really care since I was going to cut them up.
If they were rare, there's probably some mopar guy out there looking for an original set and here I am hacking them apart. :lol:
Yeah, luckily it was too long and not too short. I'm going to take it up to my machinist friend tomorrow and have him remove the trans yoke. Then I'm going to put the yoke in the trans and pull it out the 1" it should have and measure that way and compare it to the driveshaft length. Just so that I have as much information as I can when I go back over there Monday.
Re: 1987 Olds Pro-touring project build *LONG*
Haha! I think I've managed to get my air filter to fit under the hood!
The air cleaned I had on it was a K&N 16" x 3.5" with a 1" drop base. However as you can imagine, it didn't clear the hood. I had plenty of room at the rear but its the front that hits where the hood starts to slope downward. Being 2" bigger in diameter than a more typical 14" air cleaner wasn't helping anything.
The problem is that you CANNOT find a 14" drop base air cleaner for a dominator flange throttle body. I'm assuming because with a normal carb, you'd have fuel bowls to clear, which the 14" base wouldn't.
Well, since my throttle body doesn't have fuel bowls I don't have that problem.
What I did was take a dominator flange flat air cleaner base and cut the center of it out. Then I took a 5-1/8" flange 1" drop base from a 14" air cleaner I used to have on my 455 and cut its center out.
Then I did a little grinding and fitting and pop riveted the two together. This is what I ended up with:
Combined with a 3" filter the hood now clears! If I need any more clearance, I have a much better selection of air filters for the 14" size. So Could drop another .5" or so if need be.
Picture of my driveshaft installed and my safety loop I welded together and installed:
My parking brake cable made up and adapted to the LS1 brakes. There's isn't any tension on it yet.
Getting much, much closer!
Haha! I think I've managed to get my air filter to fit under the hood!
The air cleaned I had on it was a K&N 16" x 3.5" with a 1" drop base. However as you can imagine, it didn't clear the hood. I had plenty of room at the rear but its the front that hits where the hood starts to slope downward. Being 2" bigger in diameter than a more typical 14" air cleaner wasn't helping anything.
The problem is that you CANNOT find a 14" drop base air cleaner for a dominator flange throttle body. I'm assuming because with a normal carb, you'd have fuel bowls to clear, which the 14" base wouldn't.
Well, since my throttle body doesn't have fuel bowls I don't have that problem.
What I did was take a dominator flange flat air cleaner base and cut the center of it out. Then I took a 5-1/8" flange 1" drop base from a 14" air cleaner I used to have on my 455 and cut its center out.
Then I did a little grinding and fitting and pop riveted the two together. This is what I ended up with:
Combined with a 3" filter the hood now clears! If I need any more clearance, I have a much better selection of air filters for the 14" size. So Could drop another .5" or so if need be.
Picture of my driveshaft installed and my safety loop I welded together and installed:
My parking brake cable made up and adapted to the LS1 brakes. There's isn't any tension on it yet.
Getting much, much closer!
Re: 1987 Olds Pro-touring project build *LONG*
Also realized I didn't have much listed on the interior.
Dash is all stock except for the gauges. Front buckets are Procar Rally 1000 seats which are really comfortable and supportive as well. Rear seat is just the stock bench recovered in black vinyl to match the front buckets.
Picture of the front and rear seats:
Stereo system:
Stock UM6 tape deck. I opened it up and spliced into the wiring running between the tape deck and the amplifier then added a headphone jack. My tape deck has been broken for years but the radio worked fine other than that. So now with the headphone jack, I can plug in an MP3 player and if your listing to the radio, it will override the radio like the tape deck would if you inserted a tape. It allowed me to keep the look of the stock radio but have the much better sound quality of a new radio.
Front speakers:
JL Audio 6.5" woofer (1 per door)
MB Quart 4" mid-base (1 per door)
Pioneer 1" tweeter (1 per door)
Rear speakers:
MB Quart 5.25" biaxial (1 per door)
Subwoofer:
Kenwood 12"single voice coil 1200w peak
Amps:
(2) JBL P80.2 2 channel amp for front and rear speakers
(1) JBL P600.1 mono amplifier
I was originally going to use two 12" subs but after hooking all these up and testing it, one is enough for me. This system is by far the loudest and cleanest sounding I've ever had!
Picture of the trunk. Haven't finished upholstering yet.
Picture of the door speakers:
Also realized I didn't have much listed on the interior.
Dash is all stock except for the gauges. Front buckets are Procar Rally 1000 seats which are really comfortable and supportive as well. Rear seat is just the stock bench recovered in black vinyl to match the front buckets.
Picture of the front and rear seats:
Stereo system:
Stock UM6 tape deck. I opened it up and spliced into the wiring running between the tape deck and the amplifier then added a headphone jack. My tape deck has been broken for years but the radio worked fine other than that. So now with the headphone jack, I can plug in an MP3 player and if your listing to the radio, it will override the radio like the tape deck would if you inserted a tape. It allowed me to keep the look of the stock radio but have the much better sound quality of a new radio.
Front speakers:
JL Audio 6.5" woofer (1 per door)
MB Quart 4" mid-base (1 per door)
Pioneer 1" tweeter (1 per door)
Rear speakers:
MB Quart 5.25" biaxial (1 per door)
Subwoofer:
Kenwood 12"single voice coil 1200w peak
Amps:
(2) JBL P80.2 2 channel amp for front and rear speakers
(1) JBL P600.1 mono amplifier
I was originally going to use two 12" subs but after hooking all these up and testing it, one is enough for me. This system is by far the loudest and cleanest sounding I've ever had!
Picture of the trunk. Haven't finished upholstering yet.
Picture of the door speakers:
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