2004r CZF shift firmness?

[83MonteCarloSS]

Are you getting full pull at full throttle?

Yes, I am. I have a Edelbrock carb on it and I bought the adapter for the correct geometry. I set the cable by setting the TV cable loose, going full throttle on carb, and then adjusting the TV cable for no slack.

 

[64nailhead]

Yes, I am. I have a Edelbrock carb on it and I bought the adapter for the correct geometry. I set the cable by setting the TV cable loose, going full throttle on carb, and then adjusting the TV cable for no slack.

That's not the correct way to adjust it. There's an excellent chance that is your issue. Do you know how what you're looking for in the gauge readings? Can you supply a pic of your cable bracket on your throttle and of the cable also?

Line pressure being in the correct range is the key to this transmission's longevity, and I'd guess your's is low from your description of how you set it. I would not recommend driving it until you get it set correctly.

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

That's not the correct way to adjust it. There's an excellent chance that is your issue. Do you know how what you're looking for in the gauge readings? Can you supply a pic of your cable bracket on your throttle and of the cable also?

Line pressure being in the correct range is the key to this transmission's longevity, and I'd guess your's is low from your description of how you set it. I would not recommend driving it until you get it set correctly.

So how do you adjust it? I will try to post the pics you asked for later tonight.

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

You don't say what you swapped it into other than it is behind a 305 so I'm guessing it went into the 83 MCSS. You don't say how far into the trans you want to go so I'll start with some stuff that requires dropping the pan. First as suggested above make sure the tv cable is pulling the vb tv valve all the way out when your helper applies the throttle WOT. Make sure you have the CZ in paint on the vb.

If you are wanting more and aren't afraid to drop the vb you might do some research on which hole(s) to drill larger in the vb plate. with this you should be careful and only enlarge them a little bit as it is easy to go bigger. Making the hole smaller not near *ss easy. Also as menetioned a larger boost and reverse boost valves and a 700r4 spring in the pump will get the internal pressures up. While you have the vb out you can do some spring swapping to help with shift firmness.

I have some links I send to people who are interested. Let me know and Ill pm them to you.
If you have more questions I'm happy to try to answer them. Let me know and i will pm you my number. I text or if I have time am glad to try and talk about it. That said I'm not a guru, just a diy guy that did an inordinate amount of research before I assembled a 2004r for my ride.

Let us know how you do.

It did go into an 83 MCSS with a 87 MCSS 3.73 rear.

I've done a shift kit in a TH350 and replaced frictions and seals in another one so I don't have a problem getting into it but if I don't have to, that would great.

I'll double check the VB from the pics I took when I dropped the pan.

I would be interested in talking with you and checking out the links. PM me your # and a good time to reach you.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Assuming the geometry is right, I like light tension at idle and movement all the way to full throttle and full pull. With the factory cable, open the throttle by hand all the way and push the button on the TV cable and release the button. That should provide the proper TV setting.

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

Assuming the geometry is right, I like light tension at idle and movement all the way to full throttle and full pull. With the factory cable, open the throttle by hand all the way and push the button on the TV cable and release the button. That should provide the proper TV setting.

Thanks, I believe that's the way I have it set. I also tried slight adjustments tight and loose.

From my experience if this isn't pretty darn close it will have severe problems shifting.

 

[64nailhead]

Assuming the geometry is right, I like light tension at idle and movement all the way to full throttle and full pull. With the factory cable, open the throttle by hand all the way and push the button on the TV cable and release the button. That should provide the proper TV setting.

If he's running a stock cable and the geometry is correct.

OP : http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

This is a great read explaining how the TV system should work. The section under the subheading 'Once the factory set procedure has been followed...' identifies if you have it set correctly. Basically you want full TV pull at WOT and then confirm that you have it set correctly at idle as identified in the link in the section I referenced. If you don't have this, then you have one of three things occurring (or a combination of the three) - you have a stretched cable, bad TV spring (too long or too short) or bad geometry at the throttle bracket on your carb. But line pressure will confirm all of this. Unfortunately, it's a pretty unforgiving system. If you have low line pressure on a high HP motor, then you'll know pretty quick that you messed it up at the expense of some trans hard parts and usually some blood red (ATF) bleeding on the ground or no locomotion.If it's a stock HP build, then it'll take a little longer to cause a problem.

I'm anal retentive about this and I check it a couple of times a season because we're making well over 500 WHP and using a pretty high dollar (in our terms anyway) 200-4R. We are running almost 280 psi of line pressure at WOT. The 1st -2nd shift is bone jarring at light throttle, but at WOT we don't feel a thing and it's the definition of 'lightning fast'. But even in a stock motor build, if you aren't seeing 175-180 psi at WOT, then you can expect your trans lifespan to be shortened dramatically. If you get this set correctly, then you can expect years and tens of thousands of miles of flawless service on a stock build.

 

[olds307 and 403]

That 280 psi sounds right with 500 whp. I had 185 psi and shifts were pretty soft at full throttle. Since my 70 S is a driver and have maybe 325 HP and 350 TQ, my 215 psi pressure should be fine. I just don't want neck snapping shifts.

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

If he's running a stock cable and the geometry is correct.

OP : http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

This is a great read explaining how the TV system should work. The section under the subheading 'Once the factory set procedure has been followed...' identifies if you have it set correctly. Basically you want full TV pull at WOT and then confirm that you have it set correctly at idle as identified in the link in the section I referenced. If you don't have this, then you have one of three things occurring (or a combination of the three) - you have a stretched cable, bad TV spring (too long or too short) or bad geometry at the throttle bracket on your carb. But line pressure will confirm all of this. Unfortunately, it's a pretty unforgiving system. If you have low line pressure on a high HP motor, then you'll know pretty quick that you messed it up at the expense of some trans hard parts and usually some blood red (ATF) bleeding on the ground or no locomotion.If it's a stock HP build, then it'll take a little longer to cause a problem.

I'm anal retentive about this and I check it a couple of times a season because we're making well over 500 WHP and using a pretty high dollar (in our terms anyway) 200-4R. We are running almost 280 psi of line pressure at WOT. The 1st -2nd shift is bone jarring at light throttle, but at WOT we don't feel a thing and it's the definition of 'lightning fast'. But even in a stock motor build, if you aren't seeing 175-180 psi at WOT, then you can expect your trans lifespan to be shortened dramatically. If you get this set correctly, then you can expect years and tens of thousands of miles of flawless service on a stock build.

Thanks for the link, that is very detailed.

It's also the way mine is set. Full TV cable pull at WOT.

I also talked with Chris at CK Performance. He wants me to verify I have a 2 to 1 downshift. If I do, he told me to do the shift kit only.

I will update the thread when I verify line pressure and the 2 to 1 downshift.

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

Can you supply a pic of your cable bracket on your throttle and of the cable also?