85 Cutlass Brougham said:
My friend can't seem to find it.
And for a 350 swap what parts would be needed to make this happen. And would I need a different transmission or can I keep the stock one?
305 V8 what first...
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My friend can't seem to find it.
And for a 350 swap what parts would be needed to make this happen. And would I need a different transmission or can I keep the stock one?
You just need a 350, preferably from a 1980 or newer car or truck and everything else will bolt right up. If you get a 1987-99 engine, you will need the flexplate as well since the one piece seal engines use a different part. Likewise, if you use a engine before 1980, you can't use the flexplate that comes with it unless you use that engine's starter. This is because in 1980 Chevy switched from a 168 tooth flexplate/flywheel to a 153 tooth. However, all SBC flexplate/flywheels built before the switch to the one piece rear seal interchange with the exception of the 400, which is the only one which does not use a neutral balance flywheel/flexplate. So, you can just use the original 305 pieces to put in an older engine Also, if you get a 1996-99 truck engine, you will need a Vortec pattern intake manifold as they are different from a traditional SBC. Oh yeah, one other quirk is engines built before I believe it was 1969 or 1970 do not have the 3 accessory mounting holes in the ends of the cylinder heads because they used a different mounting system. However, all SBC heads are interchangeable so you can just put different heads on it if this is a problem-just don't use 305 heads. They suck.
As for the axle, there is another way to find the code. On the axle itself there are a series of numbers and letters stamped in the axle tube on the passenger's side. It is located on the tube facing the front of the car. So, you need to be looking at the axle tube by jacking up the car and viewing it from the driveshaft side of the axle, not from the rear which is the inspection cover side of the axle. It is a 7 digit code but the first 3 digits tell you what the ratio is. For example, 2AB would be a code. If you can find that ( may take some scraping or sanding) you can post that here and I will look it up for you in my GM service manuals.
As for the axle, there is another way to find the code. On the axle itself there are a series of numbers and letters stamped in the axle tube on the passenger's side. It is located on the tube facing the front of the car. So, you need to be looking at the axle tube by jacking up the car and viewing it from the driveshaft side of the axle, not from the rear which is the inspection cover side of the axle. It is a 7 digit code but the first 3 digits tell you what the ratio is. For example, 2AB would be a code. If you can find that ( may take some scraping or sanding) you can post that here and I will look it up for you in my GM service manuals.
Well everything that you could add to the 305 for performance would swap right on to any other small block chevy. So, I would go for
-headers
-exhaust
-open air element
-Performer or RPM intake
-600cfm carb
-underdrive pulleys
Thats about all you'll want to do to the 305 and it will all transfer over so you won't be wasting any money. You'll probably want a bigger carb for anything bigger though.
-headers
-exhaust
-open air element
-Performer or RPM intake
-600cfm carb
-underdrive pulleys
Thats about all you'll want to do to the 305 and it will all transfer over so you won't be wasting any money. You'll probably want a bigger carb for anything bigger though.
85 Cutlass Brougham when the weather gets warmer I'll look for the codes for the axle. It's starting to rain where I'm at. Hopefully it'll clear up tomorrow.
I was just thinking about that Ritter. Thanks.
Would I still be able to pass CA smog with those bolt ons?
Oh yea how can I tell if my stock carb is 2bbl or 4bbl? And how can I tell the difference between a 305 and 350 by looking at it?
I was just thinking about that Ritter. Thanks.
Would I still be able to pass CA smog with those bolt ons?
Oh yea how can I tell if my stock carb is 2bbl or 4bbl? And how can I tell the difference between a 305 and 350 by looking at it?
To tell the difference between the carbs just take the breather assembly off and there will either be 2 big holes or 4 big holes going down through the center of the carb.
The easiest way to determine what engine you have is to read the block casting number and look it up at http://www.mortec.com/ the number is located on the back side of the block where your transmission meets your block and its on the right side of the distributor.
The easiest way to determine what engine you have is to read the block casting number and look it up at http://www.mortec.com/ the number is located on the back side of the block where your transmission meets your block and its on the right side of the distributor.
If it is an 82, I believe it can be nothing but a 4 bbl carb on a 305. Only V6 applications got a 2 bbl when GM switched to the CCC computer system. I will post a pic of my non computer 1979 Quadrajet that I run ( I ditched the CCC setup). If it looks like this and does not say "Dualjet" on it, it's a 4 bbl.
If it looks like this and has a blue or black plug with 2 wires coming off the top ( MC solenoid wiring) and a white or black 3 wire connector on the front of the carb then you have an E4ME Quadrajet 4 bbl POS carburetor.
If it looks like this and has a blue or black plug with 2 wires coming off the top ( MC solenoid wiring) and a white or black 3 wire connector on the front of the carb then you have an E4ME Quadrajet 4 bbl POS carburetor.
you need to double check this (with cali dmv) but new york echos cali inspection and emissions laws. any car over 25 years old does not go through an emissions inspection. (NY has 2 different SI zones, in one cars pre 1996-25 years old get a visual check of emissions devices. in the other zone 95-20yrs old get dynoed and 20-25yrs old get an idle test.) also most inspectors don't look that hard at the emissions crap. if it looks close they'll pass it.
I think California has a set year of 1974 as the oldest it goes back to but am unsure. I remember it is in the 70's though. Thing is, I think they do not inspect everywhere in the state, only in major metropolitan areas. Also, since this is a non stock swap (SBC was not offered in the Cutlass that year in this country) the car would have to go through a "referee station" which would then certify the swap as having all of the correct parts for the donor vehicle and that all of the donor's systems are functioning properly, then they put a sticker on the car detailing what donor the car's smog system needs to conform to and it can be smogged for that vehicle normally from then on. I have never lived there, but have watched in horror from afar as to what they do so I could figure out how to circumvent an inspection program were we ever to get one where I live.
all 80 and up caprice/impala LG4 305 were 4 bbl
87 and 88 could be either carb or TBI 89 and up all were FI
i have owned many caprices and impalas 77-up
they are not that big they are only around 3300lbs i can get exact weight numbers i have original GM curb weight papers for these cars, its extremely amusing how big and heavy ppl think the B bodies were after 76, but in reality they were majorly lightened up for 77, ppl are skipping out on running because they mistakingly think they are heavy pigs, when they are actually nice lighter full frame car that are excellent as a G body and so forth for running fast
axle ratio was horrible in them 2.56-3.08 in almost all cases except when ordered optionally with performance ratio or 9C1/9C6 sometimes(8.5" axle, larger brakes, rear sway bar, 5 on 5" wheel bolt pattern)
the 305 can be easily made better by putting in an L69 or 350 camshaft and milling the heads down a little bit and putting 1.94 exhaust valves in the 4416 heads that it will have and that virtually all LG4 and L69 305 had
L69 were the HO 305 such as in the monte ss and Z28 camaro and trans ams, very common, they were an LG4 with the same exact heads but with a 350 cam of the year and 9.2 comrepression ratio due to different pistons through 1985, then in 1986 and up all 305 had the same pistons
the L69 were 190 horsepower
you can be very close to this by simply milling the heads a little and puttting a 350 cam in it
305 will run very strongly with minor changes
bene there done it many times
axle ratio is a huge thing
nothing will pull a vehicle very well with the crappy axle ratio they put in the 80s vehicles -except a very few G bodies, and many of the F bodies
they will just sit and burn off the right rear tire
as would a little four cylinder, with the horrible ratio
good luck
87 and 88 could be either carb or TBI 89 and up all were FI
i have owned many caprices and impalas 77-up
they are not that big they are only around 3300lbs i can get exact weight numbers i have original GM curb weight papers for these cars, its extremely amusing how big and heavy ppl think the B bodies were after 76, but in reality they were majorly lightened up for 77, ppl are skipping out on running because they mistakingly think they are heavy pigs, when they are actually nice lighter full frame car that are excellent as a G body and so forth for running fast
axle ratio was horrible in them 2.56-3.08 in almost all cases except when ordered optionally with performance ratio or 9C1/9C6 sometimes(8.5" axle, larger brakes, rear sway bar, 5 on 5" wheel bolt pattern)
the 305 can be easily made better by putting in an L69 or 350 camshaft and milling the heads down a little bit and putting 1.94 exhaust valves in the 4416 heads that it will have and that virtually all LG4 and L69 305 had
L69 were the HO 305 such as in the monte ss and Z28 camaro and trans ams, very common, they were an LG4 with the same exact heads but with a 350 cam of the year and 9.2 comrepression ratio due to different pistons through 1985, then in 1986 and up all 305 had the same pistons
the L69 were 190 horsepower
you can be very close to this by simply milling the heads a little and puttting a 350 cam in it
305 will run very strongly with minor changes
bene there done it many times
axle ratio is a huge thing
nothing will pull a vehicle very well with the crappy axle ratio they put in the 80s vehicles -except a very few G bodies, and many of the F bodies
they will just sit and burn off the right rear tire
as would a little four cylinder, with the horrible ratio
good luck
I'm still having a hard time to locate the Service identification sticker on my rear axle. does anyone have a picture on where its located?
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