305 V8 what first...

Status
Not open for further replies.
That would be my guess. Just remember that newer 9C1's will have a TH700 R4 and the older car will likely have a shorter trans in it, making the driveshaft too short. I would measure the length from the yoke to the axle center line of both axles and see if it is the same. If it is, check the U joint cup to be sure it takes the same bearing shell size. If all this lines up, you can bolt it in and just switch to the 5x5 wheels. I would also swap the front to 9C1 stuff at the same time then swap the proportioning valve and master cylinder off the cop car to the 82 so that you can use the disc brakes and also have the right volume and pressure to actuate the brakes. It is important to swap the prop valve because the drum brake car will have a residual pressure valve built in to the rear part of the prop valve and you don't want it on a disc brake circuit.
 
9c1's with rear disc ...94-96 didn't use a differant valve , gm was too cheap. you can leave yours
that 93 9C1 rear will have drums and a 3.42 gear reatio. be sure to grab the speedo gear out of the side of the transmission.
 
a combination valve incorporates a proportioning valve in it's design along with a pressure differential valve and a metering valve. a proportioning valve limits the pressure to the rear brakes and can be a stand alone item.
 
It's usually just below the master cylinder and controls all that stuff on a older GM car. If you have it, swap it out. I did that when I put a factory disc rear in a Camaro along with the master and had no problems after that. It did have issues with the drum brake valve and the disc rear though. This is when I learned about the difference.
 
both the disc and drum proportioning valve look the same. at least in the 3rd gen, i assume you were not putting in a ABS system in from a 4th gen. If so then you are the man!
The best thing is to get one from summit, cheap and adjustable. 60% front, 40% back to start. Then go from there. Honestly there is no advantage to rear disc rather then looks. it's heaver and does not last as long unless you spend the extra buck and get cross drilled with ceramic pads.
 
Well, we got one with the PBR calipers, and the prop valve came with the used master cylinder we got from the donor car. It was off an 89 T/A with the Aussie 9 bolt axle and 3.25 gear. The rear was replaced because the cross pin fell out of the differential at speed and...uhh..yeah... Oooops!
 
Honestly there is no advantage to rear disc rather then looks. it's heaver and does not last as long unless you spend the extra buck and get cross drilled with ceramic pads.

you're not driving fast enough! brakes convert motion into heat, so the more heat a system can disperse the better the system can work. it's a proven fact that disc brakes disperse more heat, therefore brake better. also if you use an aluminum caliper than at worst you're the same weight as a drum brake system. there are some car whose rear pads only last as long as the front (subarus) but for the most part if you don't ride the pedal a little bit than the pads last 60k+. and they're always in adjustment unlike drums.
 
I agree that in most cases, cross drilled rotors are at the very least unnecessary. At worst, the holes become the location of cracks that form in the rotors over time. Super-hard pads are not a good idea on the street either. Sure, they wear more slowly, but they can eat rotors instead of pads! Also, hard pads can be somewhat dangerous on a street car. This is because they are not very effective without getting heated up first. In a road race situation, this is fine. The brakes are used with a vengeance and are always hot. On the street, however, you rarely get into a situation where the brakes always have enough heat in them to be at their best and this can cause sketchy brake performance that you may not be prepared for. I have only overheated brakes once on the street (In my Nissan Frontier) using regular pads but it was on a run of 7 pizza delivery orders-all of which were late, and I was rushing too much. ( I had 8 complaint calls on my driving in 15 min...) Consequently, I boiled the fluid out of the calipers and lost braking! At that moment, the harder pads may have been better as they would possibly not have been as stressed by the hard stops I was doing back to back and maybe not have built as much heat, but that's just speculation.

Anyhow, rear discs are nice, but your money is better spent on upgrading the fronts first rather than a swap to rear discs with stock fronts. The fronts do most of the braking and thus have more heat to dissipate. This is not to say there is nothing to gain with rear discs, just that they are not as critical as the fronts.

As far as rotors go, thicker rotors are better than thin ones, and larger diameter rotors are important for several reasons. Most importantly, larger diameter rotors have a greater mechanical advantage than smaller ones, thus multiplying the work the caliper does for a given amount of application pressure. Plus, they also have more surface area and dissipate heat better.

For the record, My Cutlass currently has stock brakes, but I am planning inexpensive upgrades in the future starting with the B body 12 in fronts and finishing with 4th gen F body rear discs. The fronts are easy, but the rears will require a little fabrication-nothing I am incapable of doing though. Yes, I am aware of the negatives and the other things I need to finish this so there is no need to post them.
 
I did not read the whole post b/c it was long but for daily driving the drums vs. PBR are about the same. Now go to LS1 rear disc and that is a whole different thing. The PBR was a good option, but the fronts make the bigger difference.

If you are (prob not) racing or street racing, speeding and need to stop FAST then upgrade the fronts first. And last time I checked I get a numb pedal (brake fade) b/c my stock FRONT rotors are too hot but the drums never fade. I run ceramics w/ stock rotors and the rotor gives out fast, too small and nowhere for the gases to go on the rotor. But they do look really nice!

9 Bolt huh? NICE! looking for one too. Getting parts suck though, might just build up my 7.5 28 spline. Cheaper. lol.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor