That's gonna be fun when your done with it that's for sure....You might want to call a reputable cam company such as Competetion cams or Howard's Cams, tell them what your looking for and they will take your specs and tell you what's the best cam for your needs.....Howard's Cam's delivers more bang for the buck imo of course..... I say stick with the hydrasulic cam, once you got it adjusted your done.....I have one of those now in my sbc and am thinking of hydraulic roller in the future... 8)
496 stroker build
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Yea im definatley going hydraulic flat tappet. I cant afford $500 for lifters alone for the rollers. After I get the heads done the cam will be next in line. Im trying to get the most expensive stuff out of the way now so I only have to get the smaller parts later when im in the building process. Can anyone tell me what to expect to pay to get new guides put in and seats installed and cut for bigger valves? Just ballparkJBreu said:
Last two sets of BBC heads I had done (-781's) were right at $400 a set. Vat/hot tank, chambers bead blasted, guides replaced if needed(both sets did), cut for 2.19/1.88 valves, bowls smoothed (lightly by hand) from cutting ports open for bigger valves, guides cut for valve lift/clearance, surfaced, three angle valve job, and whatever seals. I had mine cut for .800 lift cam with PC style seals (so I don't ever have to worry about any sorta' clearance issues). I supplied the valves at that price ($80 for a set of stainless from competitionproducts.com).
I don't know if that is high or cheap, been using the same guy most of my life, he does the level of work I require, we have no hassles, and I can get a bump in line 'if its an emergency'...
I don't know if that is high or cheap, been using the same guy most of my life, he does the level of work I require, we have no hassles, and I can get a bump in line 'if its an emergency'...
Ok thanks for the info. I was thinking about $400 to get them done. Now I just gotta get another paycheck and start calling around.Bar50 said:
I just called the local race shop and they quoted me at around $900 to do the heads!!! Thats seats, guides, oversized valves and just a general port job. I might just learn to do them myself and do it in class!
The porting you can probably handle yourself if its just a basic port job. As far as the other things go, you would obviously probably want a machine shop to do those. See how much for just the seats, guides, and oversized valves. If they still want an arm and a leg I'd keep looking for different shop.
They wanted $260 alone for a "refresher" which is grinding valves and cleaning everything up. Then $200 for valves and the rest was guides and overall labor. The heads dont have a touch of gunk or oil on them, have a fresh .010 cut on the deck, and have never had seats or guides cut. They have bronze liners in right now but need re-done because the valves the guy gave me with the heads wont even go in their guides. All they would need to do is push out the old bronze liners, put new ones in, cut for bigger seats and then the 3 angle valve job for the seats. The more I think about it the more im tempted to just do it myself. I have done several heads sbc, sbo, bbo but never a splayed valve head where the valves are angled.
Hey man, I find if you collect all the parts yourself, you get a better price. As you mentioned, you get charged to grind your old valves, then put new ones in. Parts are always a mark up. I had some ******* sell me an iron guide job, when all I wanted was larger valve seats cut in the head. I had the new valves too. Know what you want, and walk away when a bag of sh*t is on the table. AND those valves you said won't fit, look for burrs, or a "mushroom" effect on the valve tips. 8)
The valve guides are press fit. You can drive them out with a hammer and a punch or prefereably an air hammer.
Just build yourself a driving tool/punch that fits inside the I.D. of the valve guide but isn't larger than the O.D. of the valve guide and drive the old ones out from the valve bowl side. Check the height of the old guides before removing them and install your new ones to the same height/depth.
You can buy a tool to machine down the tops of the guides to accept pc seals. Chuck it up in a hand drill and cut the guides down yourself once installed in the head. It's an easy process. I've done both jobs myself with no problems.
Just build yourself a driving tool/punch that fits inside the I.D. of the valve guide but isn't larger than the O.D. of the valve guide and drive the old ones out from the valve bowl side. Check the height of the old guides before removing them and install your new ones to the same height/depth.
You can buy a tool to machine down the tops of the guides to accept pc seals. Chuck it up in a hand drill and cut the guides down yourself once installed in the head. It's an easy process. I've done both jobs myself with no problems.
Im gonna see if I can just put new bronze liners in. I have done it a million times I just wasnt sure if inserts or liners were better. Im hopefully gona have a buddy of mine put new oversized seats in and cut them then I will be done. After that I will begin contacting a few cam companies to get started on my custom grind.
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