If you get done before me let me know what cam you went with and how you like it :lol:spillidge said:
496 stroker build
- Thread starter -83MONTESS-
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Little update: I got my 2.19"-1.88" valves so all I need to do is install some bronze liners and do some port work to the heads and im done with them. I also decided to ditch the overdrive transmission idea and use the money to rebuild my TH400 and do the 12 bolt swap. I figure with the huge amount of torque I should have I can get away with 3.42-3.55 gears to keep the highway RPMs low. I do have a question though: Can anybody give me any pointers as to how to clean an engine block after getting it shotblasted? I opened up all the oil galleries and I have gotten all of it out that I can see with my rifle cleaning kit and long magnet but just to be safe is there anymore ways to ensure I get all of it out?
-83MONTESS- said:
When I clean a block I remove all the plugs and wash it with hot soapy water. I use long handled bristle brushes similar to this kit:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ENGINE-CL ... T,595.html
to scrub out all the passages and bolt holes. Then I spray it down with WD40 paying special attention to coat all machined surfaces. Sure you might use the whole can or two, but its worth it to ensure the block stays rust free.
Thanks for the link. I already used 2 cans of WD40 on it and the side still rusted a little. I plan on getting a kit like in the link, hitting it with compressed air good, then hot tanking it to make damn sure its all out and I can use the hot tank anytime I wantdrogg1 said:
Before I do all this I gotta do some clearancing for the stroker crank though.
I havent made any real progress besides doing some more homework and I have contacted 3 cam companies. Neither Comp Cams or Lunati have gotten back to me like they said they would but I got the chance to spend some time talking to a guy at Howard's Cams and he recomended me this cam:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-1 ... /chevrolet
I asked him if he thought it would be too small for a 496 and he said with the heads I have and the goals of my engine it would be perfect and with some 1.8 roller rockers the engine should be happier. The same cam based on the 110LSA is their most popular for big blocks but I asked for a cam on a 108LSA. So it looks like I will be getting my cam, lifters, and possibly springs from Howard's. Next week I should be able to start some porting on my heads to clean up the ports and open them up alittle bit. I also went ahead and bought a Holley 750 DP from a fellow member on here so im getting closer but being only December im in no rush because I have all winter.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-1 ... /chevrolet
I asked him if he thought it would be too small for a 496 and he said with the heads I have and the goals of my engine it would be perfect and with some 1.8 roller rockers the engine should be happier. The same cam based on the 110LSA is their most popular for big blocks but I asked for a cam on a 108LSA. So it looks like I will be getting my cam, lifters, and possibly springs from Howard's. Next week I should be able to start some porting on my heads to clean up the ports and open them up alittle bit. I also went ahead and bought a Holley 750 DP from a fellow member on here so im getting closer but being only December im in no rush because I have all winter.
I finally figured out what im doing for the cam. After talking to a tech at COMP Cams for a week I made a decision. The cam will be a custom ground hydraulic flat tappet from the xtreme energy line. Its pretty much the XE284H-10 but cut on a 108 lsa instead of 110. The specs are
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,300-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 240
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 246
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 240 int./246 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 284
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 296
Advertised Duration: 284 int./296 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.574 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.578 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.574 int./0.578 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 108
Computer-Controlled Compatible: No
After I order this I will be getting the matching lifters and 1.7 Comp roller rockers. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of cam in a big block?
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,300-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 240
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 246
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 240 int./246 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 284
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 296
Advertised Duration: 284 int./296 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.574 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.578 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.574 int./0.578 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 108
Computer-Controlled Compatible: No
After I order this I will be getting the matching lifters and 1.7 Comp roller rockers. Does anyone have any experience with this kind of cam in a big block?
Been a minute since I messed with the big block. I got the block in the shop on wednesday to start work on it. I was gonna post this in the other thread I had regarding machining but figured its better here. I managed to magnaflux the block and install my ARP main studs so I can start align honing it. I got a few pics from when I magnafluxed it just to give everyone an idea of what goes on and what to look for. The first pic is a deep scratch that looked like a crack between cylinders 2 and 4.
This is the area during the crack checking. No yellow/green means no cracks 😀
Since the block is so big I had to do 1 side at a time. Heres the mains---keep in mind the crank that came out of this block was bent. I was expecting any damage to be here but everything looked fine. The pics arent that great but I spent alot of time looking everything over and everything checked out good.
I dont have any pics of the main studs installed but after I installed them and torqued them down I measured the bores with a dial bore gauge. The 454 main specs are 2.9370-2.9380". All the bores were under spec by .0001-.0002" with the second main being .0005" tighter than the rest. I would have thought the bores would be larger because of wear and the condition of the bearings that came out of it but im assuming the ARP stud upgrade is the reason for the tighter bores. It looks like I dont have to cut the caps since they are all under spec.
This is the area during the crack checking. No yellow/green means no cracks 😀
Since the block is so big I had to do 1 side at a time. Heres the mains---keep in mind the crank that came out of this block was bent. I was expecting any damage to be here but everything looked fine. The pics arent that great but I spent alot of time looking everything over and everything checked out good.
I dont have any pics of the main studs installed but after I installed them and torqued them down I measured the bores with a dial bore gauge. The 454 main specs are 2.9370-2.9380". All the bores were under spec by .0001-.0002" with the second main being .0005" tighter than the rest. I would have thought the bores would be larger because of wear and the condition of the bearings that came out of it but im assuming the ARP stud upgrade is the reason for the tighter bores. It looks like I dont have to cut the caps since they are all under spec.
I forgot to update this but unfortunatley I couldnt get anything done after the line hone. The boring bar we have in shop began cutting inconsistently more than you set it for so I decided not to risk it on my block. By time the parts come in to fix the boring bar im out of that class anyway. The good news is that I have gotten my roller rockers and oil with matching sump so im that much closer. I will use a portion of my tax return to get the block bored, honed, decked, and cam bearings installed. After that its time for assembly 8)
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