5+ years as a daily update

[joesregalproject]

Sounds a lot like the situation I'm in with my BMW. It runs great, very reliable, I daily it maybe 50% of the time, sorta an extra car but I still depend on it sometimes. I would confidently drive across the country in it. Its starting to show its age and needs some work, some rust and rust bubbles, some minor mechanical stuff. I was gonna sell it but I'm starting to think it's not worth the aggravation. See my "Craigslist Leeches" thread. I don't want to dump a ton of money it, but I want to keep it mechanically sound and still a good 10 footer as far as looks. Good luck with your wagon.

 

[pontiacgp]

Another reason I hate my wheels lol. Feral cats rule the neighborhood. They piss all over all my cars rims. The aluminum doesn't do well in a piss environment. I just spent the better part of a day just removing my cat piss calcified center caps from the rims. What a pain. Got them off, wire wheeled the calcified pee off.
Had time to think about a logical direction...None of all the issues I posted would be such a big deal if I wasn't in the process of doing a headgasket job on my daily commuter car. I have the car at my mechanics shop now. It's costing me some serious cash for that job. That's why cash is a problem right now.
Anyhow, I have black plasti-dip I could do the rims in. Maybe leave a polished lip, or just the center caps, whatever. I think I could live with the rims.

I think right now would be the time to do stock Moog springs all around, control arm bushings and ball joints. I even have new stock size KYB shocks for it that I forgot I had. Then hope the tires hold for a while. It would be a high rider compared to the way it sits now, but it would be so much better off. Paint repair would have to be put on the back burner for sure.

I put all the bracing bar stuff on I got from timo. Just driving down my driveway I could tell the difference. Drove it around the block. It is definitely tighter in the frontend. Less rattles.

If you are thinking of changing your rims this system may be expensive but will keep the cats away...



The concept of "Man's Best Friend" applies only when Rover is romping in the backyard catching frisbees or keeping your feet warm at the end of the couch. As soon as Fido chews up your penny loafers or, heaven forbid, opens up his main drain on a prized possession, the extension of friendship between h* Sapien and canine is rescinded. BMW has invented a new system called Canine Repellent Alloy Protection (CRAP) that should prevent Lassie from leaking all over its owner's most prized possession, the Bimmer in the driveway. CRAP uses the existing EfficientDynamics Brake Energy Regeneration systems on many BMWs to store up electric energy known as Rim Impulse Power (RIP). When a poodle aims its peter at one of your Bimmer's shiny alloy wheels, a small electric charge will cross the stream and give Fluffy a tough lesson in respecting other people's property. Ingenious, really.

[Source: BMW, Metro.co.uk]

PRESS RELEASE

BMW's Canine Repellent Alloy Protection

The latest innovation to stop foul play on the street

BMW has announced the first details of the new Canine Repellent Alloy Protection system. Designed to stop dogs fouling against the sparkling alloys of new BMW cars, the innovative Canine Repellent Alloy Protection system (C.R.A.P.) is the latest offering in the BMW EfficientDynamics programme.

Using the EfficientDynamics Brake Energy Regeneration system, energy that would normally have been lost during engine over-run and during braking is harnessed as Rim Impulse Power (R.I.P.) and stored for future use. Whenever a dog tries to relieve itself on the wheel of a suitably-equipped BMW, a small and relatively painless electric shock is immediately administered to the animal, thus deterring it from future fouling.

Dr Hans Zoff, Head of Automotive Security from BMW AG, said; "Research shows that most BMW customers like to keep their cars clean and dog fouling is a constant irritant. Not only does the Canine Repellent Alloy Protection system support this aim, but it does so using energy created through the EfficientDynamics programme. Beauty through engineering perfection – our philosophy in a wheel nut."

 

[Csilvy2000]

One option to consider, spend the money on a complete suspension rebuild. Then find the old school look wheels and tires you want. Get the car at the stance you want. You should have enough left over for a can of red spray paint. Give the damaged spots a little touch up and continue driving the wheels off it. The stance and the wheels will turn heads. The damaged spots will make for one hell of a conversation starter.

 

[ssn696]

Does a female cat camp out in or on your car? Fido's looking for a snack, Tom's looking for a...snack.

 

[Longroof79]

I'd also concentrate on the suspension first...then look for a set of steelies. I got mine at the local U-Pull-It. They were cheap...like $10.00 per wheel. They came off of a few mid '80's B-body cars and were 15 x 7's. Many of them have 15 x 6's. There's a code stamped next to the valve stem. I'll see if I can find them. I got the info from Turna several years back. I'm sure if he sees this he'll chime in.
You can always sell the alloy wheels after finding what you want. I think a set of steelies with Pontiac dogdish caps would look killer on there...but again, I'm partial to the old school look.

 

[oranGekrate]

Sounds a lot like the situation I'm in with my BMW. It runs great, very reliable, I daily it maybe 50% of the time, sorta an extra car but I still depend on it sometimes. I would confidently drive across the country in it. Its starting to show its age and needs some work, some rust and rust bubbles, some minor mechanical stuff. I was gonna sell it but I'm starting to think it's not worth the aggravation. See my "Craigslist Leeches" thread. I don't want to dump a ton of money it, but I want to keep it mechanically sound and still a good 10 footer as far as looks. Good luck with your wagon.

Ah, you get me. And yes I read your CL thread, funny stuff. People can be odd.

One option to consider, spend the money on a complete suspension rebuild. Then find the old school look wheels and tires you want. Get the car at the stance you want. You should have enough left over for a can of red spray paint. Give the damaged spots a little touch up and continue driving the wheels off it. The stance and the wheels will turn heads. The damaged spots will make for one hell of a conversation starter.

This is a logical approach. The suspension definitely needs help more so than the paint issue. I just need to figure out the springs to use...I actually think the nose is a bit too low now. I'm thinking Moog 5660"s with a 1/4 coil cut out will drop it just right. Not sure about the back springs to get a 2in lower stance other than UMI springs. I'm researching options now.

Does a female cat camp out in or on your car? Fido's looking for a snack, Tom's looking for a...snack.

The day the dog attacked the pontiac I remember seeing a cat on the hood earlier. They like to lay on the warm hood. I really need garage space for this car.

 

[oranGekrate]

I'd also concentrate on the suspension first...then look for a set of steelies. I got mine at the local U-Pull-It. They were cheap...like $10.00 per wheel. They came off of a few mid '80's B-body cars and were 15 x 7's. Many of them have 15 x 6's. There's a code stamped next to the valve stem. I'll see if I can find them. I got the info from Turna several years back. I'm sure if he sees this he'll chime in.
You can always sell the alloy wheels after finding what you want. I think a set of steelies with Pontiac dogdish caps would look killer on there...but again, I'm partial to the old school look.

Hey Jack. I have a couple yards I could call or visit. Of course I'd prefer an 8in wheel out back. But I keep thinking a set of 7in would allow me to have all four corners running the same tire size so I can rotate...I think if 245/60/15 would fit up front it would make for a good muscular look even with a stock ride height.

 

[Longroof79]

If you're still interested, these are the types of cars that you'd be looking at.
'76-'90 Caprice
'82-'86 Pontiac Parisienne
'76-'81 Buick Century
'82-'85 Buick Estate wagon

Wheel codes for the 15 x 7's are AE, FN, TJ If I'm not mistaken, certain models have a 5 x 5 bolt pattern instead of the 4.75 x 5...but I think that would be on later B-bodys...and possibly some stationwagons and police cars.

 

[Longroof79]

Hey Jack. I have a couple yards I could call or visit. Of course I'd prefer an 8in wheel out back. But I keep thinking a set of 7in would allow me to have all four corners running the same tire size so I can rotate...I think if 245/60/15 would fit up front it would make for a good muscular look even with a stock ride height.

Charlie,
I was thinking the same thoughts. However, I did think of going with 8's in the rear. But again I was thinking of keeping the same size on all 4 corners for rotational purpose.
I'd be careful with 245's up front. I suppose you can try one when the time comes. In the back, I think they'd look great...even more so with an 8" rim.
There are companies that make steelies any size you want.

 

[Ribbedroof]

I repaired a Toyota Yaris about 8 years ago that had that same damage (bite marks all around the wheel opening) on the fenders. I'm guessing the dogs were like the ones down the road from me that are always trying to bite at the tires when you drive by. I guess dogs hate tires?