5+ years as a daily update

Status
Not open for further replies.
Thanks Mr. motorheadmike . That's very nice work.

Which brings me to a question I have. I'll use the 5660 front spring for example...This spring uses a squared end and a tangential end. Which end is up(pocket end)and which is down(control arm). I am pretty sure it's the tangential end that is trimmed. What effect would having both ends tangential? I have a feeling some people just cut and stuff with little thought to this...Maybe not. Just curious.
On the rear spring pontiacgp uses open top spring 5661 which is a squared end. When cut, it becomes a tangential end. Does this matter? I guess using the isolator corrects the possible issue if any.

I cut the bottom end
 
Thanks for the Moog link, Mike.
I bookmarked it for future reference. That is one of the best Moog spring links that I've ever seen.

Charlie, you're going to OD on information. 🙂
I have a tendency to over think most things to the point of info OD🤔
 
  • Like
Reactions: Longroof79
Thanks Mr. motorheadmike . That's very nice work.

Which brings me to a question I have. I'll use the 5660 front spring for example...This spring uses a squared end and a tangential end. Which end is up(pocket end)and which is down(control arm). I am pretty sure it's the tangential end that is trimmed. What effect would having both ends tangential? I have a feeling some people just cut and stuff with little thought to this...Maybe not. Just curious.
On the rear spring pontiacgp uses open top spring 5661 which is a squared end. When cut, it becomes a tangential end. Does this matter? I guess using the isolator corrects the possible issue if any.

Square end goes up into the frame pocket, tangential down into the LCA notch. Trim the tangential end. If both ends are tangential you end up with a spring that is difficult to seat squarely. You can use isolators which will return the spring to "square"; I did this with the Matrix springs in my wagon using Trailblazer strut isolators.

I strongly recommend you go with at least the 5662s... especially if you have an iron block and heads. The 5660s with my all-aluminum LS1 are not up to the task.
 
Square end goes up into the frame pocket, tangential down into the LCA notch. Trim the tangential end. If both ends are tangential you end up with a spring that is difficult to seat squarely. You can use isolators which will return the spring to "square"; I did this with the Matrix springs in my wagon using Trailblazer strut isolators.

I strongly recommend you go with at least the 5662s... especially if you have an iron block and heads. The 5660s with my all-aluminum LS1 are not up to the task.
Thanks for the answers on the springs... I'll definitely consider those springs. If I find those springs to be too harsh, instead of changing the springs out, I'll find a pontiac 455 and shove that in to compensate.😀
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor