78 Grand Prix project

[G-Body_Vet]

[quote="G-Body_Vet]
Machine work on the block is my next endeavor. I hope the cost doesn't get out of control because I still have to buy pistons and rods. Those Poncho pistons aren't cheap! My block and crank look pretty good so we'll see.

Yea,I hear that. I think I'm up to about 7 grand in so far. The forged stroker kit was a big part of the cost, but I'm planning on a little nitrous, so I figured it's just extra insurance.[/quote][/quote]

Whoa!!!!! You aren't playing around huh? I'm just keeping the stock crank, but going with better pistons & rods. Then again I'm just trying to build a cruiser with some balls anyway. I'll be happy if I can squeeze 425-450hp out of it in the end. I'm really going for torque anyway so the 455 fits the bill nicely.

 

[67rstbkt]

Whoa!!!!! You aren't playing around huh? I'm just keeping the stock crank, but going with better pistons & rods. Then again I'm just trying to build a cruiser with some balls anyway. I'll be happy if I can squeeze 425-450hp out of it in the end. I'm really going for torque anyway so the 455 fits the bill nicely.

I'm shooting for the 500hp/600ft lb range on motor. Like I said, the forged stuff is really just extra insurance. There's almost no difference in cost between forged stock spec cranks and the stroker stuff, so I just went with the 461 combo on my 400. This is my first Poncho mill and the car it's going in is my most ambitous project yet, so I figured I should go big or go home, lol. I picked up a T56 out of a Viper for it, so that should be a good time. I was not going to go as far as I did with the motor at first, but every time I talked to the guys at the machine shop, I ended up adding stuff to the list. From all that I've read, getting to your goal should be a piece of cake. These motors were under rated in the 60's and the big difference when power dropped off in the 70's was head design and C/R. Put a nice set of heads on there and up the C/R and you're golden.

 

[G-Body_Vet]

Whoa!!!!! You aren't playing around huh? I'm just keeping the stock crank, but going with better pistons & rods. Then again I'm just trying to build a cruiser with some balls anyway. I'll be happy if I can squeeze 425-450hp out of it in the end. I'm really going for torque anyway so the 455 fits the bill nicely.

I'm shooting for the 500hp/600ft lb range on motor. Like I said, the forged stuff is really just extra insurance. There's almost no difference in cost between forged stock spec cranks and the stroker stuff, so I just went with the 461 combo on my 400. This is my first Poncho mill and the car it's going in is my most ambitous project yet, so I figured I should go big or go home, lol. I picked up a T56 out of a Viper for it, so that should be a good time. I was not going to go as far as I did with the motor at first, but every time I talked to the guys at the machine shop, I ended up adding stuff to the list. From all that I've read, getting to your goal should be a piece of cake. These motors were under rated in the 60's and the big difference when power dropped off in the 70's was head design and C/R. Put a nice set of heads on there and up the C/R and you're golden.

I'm feeling the snowball effect with my project too. I had a stock 400 with a 2bbl carb in an '80 Regal and I fell in love with the torque...which led me to hunt for a 455 this time around. In the beginning I bought my 455 as a runner, then I figured why not go through it and do it the right way. I'm going to contact Cliff for the proper Q-jet parts/set-up and probably CK performance when it comes to building my 200-4R. I haven't even considered paint or anything else yet.

What are you putting this in anyway?

 

[67rstbkt]

I'm feeling the snowball effect with my project too. I had a stock 400 with a 2bbl carb in an '80 Regal and I fell in love with the torque...which led me to hunt for a 455 this time around. In the beginning I bought my 455 as a runner, then I figured why not go through it and do it the right way. I'm going to contact Cliff for the proper Q-jet parts/set-up and probably CK performance when it comes to building my 200-4R. I haven't even considered paint or anything else yet.

What are you putting this in anyway?

It's hard to know when to stop, especially when it's $100 here and $150 there. It quickly adds up though; the plus side is that I should have a pretty nice setup. It's going into my 67 Firebird. When you get to your block, check out BOP engineering if you have not already. They have a nice rear main seal that's supposed to be pretty good. It's spendy, but it looks like a nice piece. They also have a one piece rubber oil pan gasket.
Have you done any work on the block yet? I removed all the casting flash in the lifter valley and deburred all the edges before taking it into the machine shop. It's real easy to do and it should help with oil drainback. I also worry about those little jagged edges breaking away and throwing shrapnel into the engine.

here's a few pics, I'm a little further along now.

 

[G-Body_Vet]

check out BOP engineering if you have not already. They have a nice rear main seal that's supposed to be pretty good. It's spendy, but it looks like a nice piece. They also have a one piece rubber oil pan gasket.

removed all the casting flash in the lifter valley and deburred all the edges

That's looking good. I can't wait until I get to that point.

As for the BOP seal I'll be buying one of those two. I've read all about the asbestos vs non-asbestos rope seals and won't be going that route. I haven't looked into the rubber pan gasket yet but I will when the time comes.

I removed casting flash from the lifter valley too. That was the easy part compared to removing the oil galley plugs. Those easy-outs are a life saver.

 

[67rstbkt]

That's looking good. I can't wait until I get to that point.

As for the BOP seal I'll be buying one of those two. I've read all about the asbestos vs non-asbestos rope seals and won't be going that route. I haven't looked into the rubber pan gasket yet but I will when the time comes.

I removed casting flash from the lifter valley too. That was the easy part compared to removing the oil galley plugs. Those easy-outs are a life saver.

Thanks, when you get that BOP seal, follow the instructions closely. You will have to do some measuring/trimming for it to fit the way they intend. I used a small file to do the job. I should have just ordered the oil pan gasket at the same time, so I don't have it yet to comment. I'm sure that it's as good quality-wise as the rear seal is. I hate oil leaks and these are supposed to be the best way to prevent rear main/oil pan leaks. I guess we'll see.

 

[pontiacgp]

I never heard of BOP so I goggled it...U.S. Federal Bureau of Prisons (BOP), seal.... :shock:

when I found the right place they do have some nice stuff there...

 

[G-Body_Vet]

I hate oil leaks

I'm with ya there. Yeah the seal is a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. A rear main leak would really piss on your parade with a fresh engine too!

 

[67rstbkt]

I never heard of BOP so I goggled it...U.S. Federal Bureau of Prisons (BOP), seal.... :shock:

when I found the right place they do have some nice stuff there...

LOL, yea I sould have said BOP engineering

 

[67rstbkt]

I'm with ya there. Yeah the seal is a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. A rear main leak would really piss on your parade with a fresh engine too!

Absolutely, I'll shell out the $30 or $40 to avoid ripping out the transmission and maybe the motor. Well worth the price, IMO