84' Cutlass pro touring build

[69hurstolds]

I wouldn't paint it. But that's me. The material shouldn't be that expensive. Just more of a PITA to replace if it's still new though. If you do want to paint it, get some good fabric paint and fog it on there to get it to the darkness you want. Maybe try that first and if it doesn't get you where you want to be, then replace it with the right stuff.

If it's a full hard top, with the back window out, you should be able to drop it, tilt it a bit, and slide it right out the back. I've never done it that way, but can't see why it wouldn't work. You may have to bow it a tad to clear but it should come out. You could also get it out the passenger side by laying down the passenger side seat and working it out carefully but it's a huge PITA. But can be done. Easiest way is remove/install it with the windshield out.

Remove any dome lights, sun visors, coat hooks, upper and side trim, along with their clips. I know they make repro clips for the sides now, but you can re-use your old ones if you're careful. The front and back garnish molding clips along the top usually get broken removing the garnish molding, so you may need to get new ones.

If it's original, it'll be a pressed foam-board backing. It'll be old, so it'll probably be brittle too, so be careful of that. If it cracks, you can usually get by with some duct tape on the top side of it to repair cracks.

As for removing the material, I've only done it on crusty ones where the fabric just tore off and the fabric foam backing crumbled. Then I used a stiff plastic brush like one for scrubbing tire sidewalls to scrub away the fabric foam bits. Obviously using it dry. Not sure about removing the new stuff that hasn't decayed.

 

[Tony1968]

I have questions about door gap. Driver side pictures included. Top driver side has .300 gap and tapers to .250 near the sill. 3/16 gap which i here talk about is .188
Can I loosen hinge mount to car and slide it over to tighten gaps?
Passenger side has skin replaced before I bought the car. Gap is between. 195 and. 200 from top to bottom. That's only a few hundredths from .188 so I can live with it. Measurements taken with dial gauge.
I have slight play up and down with driver door open, maybe an eighth of an inch up/down so I'll be rebuild hinge.
Can I do the rebuild with hinge/door mounted???
I have the tool to mount to jack to hold / lift door but I bought it before I was injured. I just don't know if I can do it myself even with the door caddy or whatever it's called.
If you guys tell me to remove door I will. I'll just wait for help from someone.
Long winded post. My apologies
So door gap and hinge questions remain. Any opinions are greatly appreciated. BTW thanks to Donavan for information on removing trim on drip rail. Spot on

 

[scoti]

Most upper end fabricators would add welding rod to close up gaps where needed. The size of material is dependent on gap requirements.
Once welded in, then it's grind to obtain the gap size desired.

 

[Rktpwrd]

Most upper end fabricators would add welding rod to close up gaps where needed. The size of material is dependent on gap requirements.
Once welded in, then it's grind to obtain the gap size desired.

True, although this is on the extreme end of the spectrum. I’ve done it on both my cars and on my buddies ‘57 Chevy, and for the work involved would only recommend it as a last resort. He should be able to get his gaps relatively acceptable with the basic panel adjustments afforded by the factory.

Tony, your gaps are absolutely able to be fine tuned, but be aware, you’ll need a boatload of patience and an extra set of hands to do it properly. To align any and all of the front end sheetmetal, it all has to start with the doors. You’ve already mentioned that you’re shooting for a gap of 3/16”, this is perfect. Get that 3/16” gap between the backs of the doors and to the rocker panels as best you can. This is critical to getting the rest of the sheetmetal to align properly. Don’t be surprised at seeing a wide variation in the measurements, these cars were hardly precision built machines even when new.

Once you’ve got the back of the doors/bottom of the doors gap set, then you can continue to work your way forward adjusting as required. The doors will be your biggest hurdle, they have a ton of adjustment in both the hinge to door and hinge to body, and times 2 on each side of course. This is where the patience will be needed, that and understanding how each adjustment affects the panel within the opening.

If, after you’ve exhausted all the possible adjustments and are still not happy with the end result, then (and only then) would I consider welding up gaps and reshaping them.

But before you consider any adjustments, get your hinges rebuilt or replaced. No amount of adjusting is going to compensate for a worn out hinge. Some guys have had success with rebuilding them on the car, I generally don’t bother. Mark it out extremely well on both sides of the door and car, pull them off and rebuild them on the bench, then reinstall in the exact spot it came off.
Just my preferred method.

Hope this answers your questions and helps.

 

[Tony1968]

You know I tease because I love.

True, although this is on the extreme end of the spectrum. I’ve done it on both my cars and on my buddies ‘57 Chevy, and for the work involved would only recommend it as a last resort. He should be able to get his gaps relatively acceptable with the basic panel adjustments afforded by the factory.

Tony, your gaps are absolutely able to be fine tuned, but be aware, you’ll need a boatload of patience and an extra set of hands to do it properly. To align any and all of the front end sheetmetal, it all has to start with the doors. You’ve already mentioned that you’re shooting for a gap of 3/16”, this is perfect. Get that 3/16” gap between the backs of the doors and to the rocker panels as best you can. This is critical to getting the rest of the sheetmetal to align properly. Don’t be surprised at seeing a wide variation in the measurements, these cars were hardly precision built machines even when new.

Once you’ve got the back of the doors/bottom of the doors gap set, then you can continue to work your way forward adjusting as required. The doors will be your biggest hurdle, they have a ton of adjustment in both the hinge to door and hinge to body, and times 2 on each side of course. This is where the patience will be needed, that and understanding how each adjustment affects the panel within the opening.

If, after you’ve exhausted all the possible adjustments and are still not happy with the end result, then (and only then) would I consider welding up gaps and reshaping them.

But before you consider any adjustments, get your hinges rebuilt or replaced. No amount of adjusting is going to compensate for a worn out hinge. Some guys have had success with rebuilding them on the car, I generally don’t bother. Mark it out extremely well on both sides of the door and car, pull them off and rebuild them on the bench, then reinstall in the exact spot it came off.
Just my preferred method.

Hope this answers your questions and helps.

Will do! What about using 1/8" drill bit and drilling through the hinge to have a location making it easier to reinstall? I've read about it many times but have never done it
BTW have hinge pin kit from Mike's Montes coming today

 

[melloelky]

it works well

 

[Tony1968]

it works well

Any pics on where to drill ?

 

[Streetbu]

Doesn't matter as long as you have room to put the drill bit thru and line the panels up.

 

[Tony1968]

I thought some of you guys said that G body doors were heavy 🤔

 

[Streetbu]

They are when they are assembled complete.