84' Cutlass pro touring build
- Thread starter Tony1968
- Start date
BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.
Blood, sweat, and...no tears
Finished up some small areas of filler and glaze. Sealed it with another coat of epoxy last night. Just put 3 coats of high build using a Summit 2.0 hvlp inexpensive gun. After first coat i waited about 20 minutes, filled gun, and began 2nd coat. Sputtering and popcorn. Stopped and had to clean cap and nozzle. The tiny air holes were almost totally clogged. Is this normal and should I just plan on cleaning between coats in future?
Or is it just the gun being junk?
Finished up some small areas of filler and glaze. Sealed it with another coat of epoxy last night. Just put 3 coats of high build using a Summit 2.0 hvlp inexpensive gun. After first coat i waited about 20 minutes, filled gun, and began 2nd coat. Sputtering and popcorn. Stopped and had to clean cap and nozzle. The tiny air holes were almost totally clogged. Is this normal and should I just plan on cleaning between coats in future?
Or is it just the gun being junk?
it's not normal and you shouldn't have to clean between coats.if i had to guess i'd say because of the large coat window along side the high build nature.good to see you're running the 2.0 though Tony.keep an eye on the vent on cup lid sometimes that gets clogged and make for strange results.
Do you have any recommendations for a better primer gun? I went the less expensive route. I hate when that happens. I believe you get what you pay for especially for tools. Just heard many times from people saying you don't need an expensive primer gun.
i wouldn't blame the gun per say and here's why-work with a guy that runs the cheap purple harbor freight gun,he uses it until he's either sick of cleaning it or forgets and the primer locks up in it and throws it away and buys another one for under $20.yes you can't push mud throught it but reducing the primer some it works.I'd look more towards the primer.maybe thin it out a little and watch your in between coat times.you don't have to spend a lot on one especally for the amount you're using one.
20 minutes flash time between coats sounds like a lot Tony. Like melloelky said, double check your flash times on your P sheet. Also what is the ambient air temperature you’re spraying at? It matters, the hotter it is the shorter the flash times will be between coats.
5-10 minutes sounds more acceptable for high build in my experience. And if that doesn’t work, like was also mentioned, worst case scenario you can thin it out slightly with reducer.
5-10 minutes sounds more acceptable for high build in my experience. And if that doesn’t work, like was also mentioned, worst case scenario you can thin it out slightly with reducer.
P sheet says minimum of 15 minutes flash time. I did use 10% medium reducer. It was 77 degrees when I started and 83 when I was done. Humidity was 44 to 36% I should have used slow reducer
Edit. Booth temps were slightly cooler actually due to air flow. I have remote sensors for outside air and separate one inside. I think it was 75 to 76 in booth mostly. I didn't have problems when I was doing front fenders but much smaller scale obviously
Edit. Booth temps were slightly cooler actually due to air flow. I have remote sensors for outside air and separate one inside. I think it was 75 to 76 in booth mostly. I didn't have problems when I was doing front fenders but much smaller scale obviously
Last edited:
I'd stick w/the medium @that temp but that's just me,again theres a lot of variables with these types things so whatever works better with xyz product/conditions.if it's flashed off inside the coat window I'm not watching the clock for the next coat.
BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL. Thru 12/2 Everything (Including Calendars!!) in the shop is 20% off. use code BLACKFRIDAY24.
Similar threads
