84' Cutlass pro touring build

melloelky

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 22, 2017
4,174
9,602
113
mass
I make mistakes, no doubt. But I'm pretty sure I've got not only chemical but mechanical adhesion also. 4 to 5 day adhesion with this epoxy.
From what I've learned lately and what kinda concerns me is that 2k primer surfacer can take a month or more to offgas and shrink. If you stack too much on. I didn't know that.
you've got all kinds of adhesion going for you,I was just reinforcing what Mr D had said.
You're not putting all That material on In large amounts and not standing it off very and painting over it.if you ground the surface down aggressively and then primed it excessively without blocking say every three or four coats you'd see shrinkage in time. Where you're actually going through the motions here correctly the shrinkage isn't what it used to be. By that I mean the early primers used to shrink a lot because they were put over poor products that sunk as well. It was the domino effect. You're putting a couple Coats and standing it flat etc.
products outgas to an extent but it's not the boggie man that it's made out to be.I don't know what your time frame is from primer to paint is but by the time most people get to the point where they ACTUALLY put color on its longer than anticipated.i wouldn't worry to much about it.
 
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,134
113
NW Indiana
you've got all kinds of adhesion going for you,I was just reinforcing what Mr D had said.
You're not putting all That material on In large amounts and not standing it off very and painting over it.if you ground the surface down aggressively and then primed it excessively without blocking say every three or four coats you'd see shrinkage in time. Where you're actually going through the motions here correctly the shrinkage isn't what it used to be. By that I mean the early primers used to shrink a lot because they were put over poor products that sunk as well. It was the domino effect. You're putting a couple Coats and standing it flat etc.
products outgas to an extent but it's not the boggie man that it's made out to be.I don't know what your time frame is from primer to paint is but by the time most people get to the point where they ACTUALLY put color on its longer than anticipated.i wouldn't worry to much about it.
Very good explanation. Thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,134
113
NW Indiana
Was able to knock out that tiny high spot using hammer off dolly. Laid down a nice coat of white epoxy this time then 3 medium wet coats of high build. I'll let her sit for awhile then putting back on car so I can attempt to get gap correct to rear quarter. Then same deal with passenger side door.
20220528_110216.jpg
20220528_110202.jpg
20220528_110151.jpg
 
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: 9 users

Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,134
113
NW Indiana
Very slight orange peel. What do you guys recommend to block sand with first? 180, 220 ???
I made many mistakes with front fenders where I used 80 after high build and now realize that isn't necessary.
 

scoti

Royal Smart Person
Sep 5, 2019
1,985
3,422
113
Texas
Very slight orange peel. What do you guys recommend to block sand with first? 180, 220 ???
I made many mistakes with front fenders where I used 80 after high build and now realize that isn't necessary.
I'm not a pro so I would approach it w/a less aggressive grit if I felt I'm nearing the 'as good as I'm going to get it' condition. If I think there will definitely be another round, 180 it would be.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 3 users

Streetbu

Know it all, that doesn't
Supporting Member
May 22, 2011
3,743
11,607
113
Central NY
180 or 220 IMO
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,177
23,955
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I finish my blocking of the filler work in 120 before high build, then start again with a light blocking in 120 again afterwards. If it all blocks out nicely with no obvious lows, I switch to 220, then 320 and 400. Wet sand in 600, and ready for paint as long as you haven’t broken through anywhere.
 
  • Like
  • Winner
Reactions: 2 users

Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,134
113
NW Indiana
I finish my blocking of the filler work in 120 before high build, then start again with a light blocking in 120 again afterwards. If it all blocks out nicely with no obvious lows, I switch to 220, then 320 and 400. Wet sand in 600, and ready for paint as long as you haven’t broken through anywhere.
You answered my question as I posted!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 users

Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,134
113
NW Indiana
Working on alignment. I started off terribly by dropping door. Lower front was folded over inside badly 😫 Hammer and dolly work and it's going to be a few hours re doing primer etc. So in pics I'm getting close (before having it better then losing it over and over again) . I have a question. I put striker back in and closing door i can push it about 3/16" in past quarter but pull out and it's flush. Does the weather stripping come into play here? A little confused
20220530_144010.jpg
20220530_144018.jpg
20220530_144103.jpg
20220530_144055.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 8 users

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor