84' Cutlass pro touring build

[Tony1968]

I have questions as to what I should do next. I have front and rear bumpers with facia (if that's what you call it) and hood that are left to strip, bodywork and paint. The hood may have to wait until spring because it's getting a little to cold for a project that may bring me to December to paint. But I may be able to knock out front and rear. What say the experts ???

 

[Streetbu]

You could do all the small stuff, filler panels, etc

 

[Rktpwrd]

I have questions as to what I should do next. I have front and rear bumpers with facia (if that's what you call it) and hood that are left to strip, bodywork and paint. The hood may have to wait until spring because it's getting a little to cold for a project that may bring me to December to paint. But I may be able to knock out front and rear. What say the experts ???

Without knowing what the ambient air temperatures are and how your shop is set up with regards to heat (radiant, forced air, electric etc), that’s pretty tough to answer. I haven’t and don’t hesitate to paint in The Skunkworks year round, but I’m also not stingy with the heat when I need to be. If I know I’m going to be painting or priming, I’ll usually turn the heat up as much as 24 hours ahead of time to make sure the entire shop is up to temperature, and keep it turned up for another 24 afterwards so the paint fully dries, cures, and doesn’t go into “temperature shock”. Then I’ll return it back to its usual room temperature setting.

I would say if you have the means as far as heat and ventilation are concerned, then go for it.

 

[Tony1968]

I'm going to have to back track quite a bit unfortunately 😕
After a brief moment of enlightenment I realized that the front of both doors are too far out and when lining up fenders (to match doors) the hood will have too large of a gap. Is there a better way to figure out spacing?
Does anyone know what the gap should be at the very top front of the door to the pillar running up the windshield (to the roof) ???
I've got around 3/8" on both sides and I believe it's got to tighten up considerably. I've searched and cannot find any specs.

 

[Rktpwrd]

I'm going to have to back track quite a bit unfortunately 😕
After a brief moment of enlightenment I realized that the front of both doors are too far out and when lining up fenders (to match doors) the hood will have too large of a gap. Is there a better way to figure out spacing?
Does anyone know what the gap should be at the very top front of the door to the pillar running up the windshield (to the roof) ???
I've got around 3/8" on both sides and I believe it's got to tighten up considerably. I've searched and cannot find any specs.

That’s because there are no hard and fast “specs”. Your target gap width should be somewhere between 1/8” - 3/16” after paint to avoid interference issues. When aligning the front end sheet metal, you actually need to start with the doors. Get them aligned in the openings with the quarters and the rocker panels first, then loosely assemble the fenders and hood.
The fenders and hood will all have to be aligned at the same time. Just work slowly and methodically, taking into account what each adjustment will have on the panel(s) ahead of time.

Oh, and bring a boatload of patience, you’re going to need it. In the event that you don’t have enough adjustment to get what you want, you’ll have to “split the difference” between panels and settle for a compromise. Not ideal, but when working within factory limitations, it is what it is.

 

[81cutlass]

Looking good! Optimistically do you plan/think it will be running in the spring? Or too much work still?

Panel alignment is a nightmare.

 

[Tony1968]

That’s because there are no hard and fast “specs”. Your target gap width should be somewhere between 1/8” - 3/16” after paint to avoid interference issues. When aligning the front end sheet metal, you actually need to start with the doors. Get them aligned in the openings with the quarters and the rocker panels first, then loosely assemble the fenders and hood.
The fenders and hood will all have to be aligned at the same time. Just work slowly and methodically, taking into account what each adjustment will have on the panel(s) ahead of time.

Oh, and bring a boatload of patience, you’re going to need it. In the event that you don’t have enough adjustment to get what you want, you’ll have to “split the difference” between panels and settle for a compromise. Not ideal, but when working within factory limitations, it is what it is.

Alright Alright Alright 👍 Hahaha
This changes my plan of attack but it is very useful and thank you 😊!!!
So I have to get the underside of hood prepped and ready for satin black (entire engine compartment is this) I can finish top side of hood while on the car. I really appreciate the heads up for this. Nothing I've ever read or watched has spoken about it.

 

[Tony1968]

Looking good! Optimistically do you plan/think it will be running in the spring? Or too much work still?

Panel alignment is a nightmare.

Thank you. It runs now but hasn't moved an inch under its own power since I drove it into my garage in 2018. Still have to decide on interior especially the seats. Spring may be too optimistic but hey... I can dream!!!

 

[Tony1968]

2 days of sanding and today laid 2 coats of epoxy then 3 coats of single stage satin black.

 

[Northernregal]

2 days of sanding and today laid 2 coats of epoxy then 3 coats of single stage satin black. View attachment 209553View attachment 209554View attachment 209555View attachment 209556