I'm working without a budget I'm just spending what I need to and doing what I want to it. I think its gonna cost abt 2k to get the motor done the way I need, suspension should run me abt 800$, brakes idk yet may just keep em stock for now and place all the parts again idk yet, trans rebuild it when I need to, rearend add a posi and replace parts while its open as needed, paint and body I will worry abt it when I get to that stage. And will be parts collecting as I go along. Did I mention everything works on this car? Heat, Lights, A/C, HORN LOL, but not the damn power seat hopefully I can rebuild it cheaply.
84 Hurst/Olds New Project
- Thread starter 84clonewars
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2k on the engine. Have you considered a LSX series of engine? In my area there is always lower milage 5.3's with the whole front accesory drive, exhaust manifolds, computer, ect... they usually go for way under a Grand, the 6.0's are a little more. you could spend the rest for a fuel system to run fuel injected, or get the carb intake that bolts on and go!!! 6bolt mains, cranks proven to 1000hp, throw a decent cam and the needed springs and your at hp goal 😀 Guess you would still need the motor mounts, and a addapter plate for your trans, or just get chevy bolt pattern TH350, 400, 700, blah blah blah.
gto nate said:
yea I actually have thought about that, when i get a new work van im gonna take my 6.0 out and rebuild it and put it in another project but with this one i really feel a need to keep it in the olds family idk why but its just begging me to drop a 350olds into it lol. I also have a 91 350tpi complete to put in another project was gonna go into my regal but thats gone now. And maybe I was a little high on the $$ with 2k, i can probably have it done for a lil lower, considering I have some use-able parts for it.
YOU'RE A JERK!!! Thanks to you I've been staring, reading and thinking abt an LS Motor you suck lol. There's a 5.3 truck motor with no harness or ecu. The carb setup is abt 700$, new cam and lifters and I'm ready to go.gto nate said:
84clonewars said:
The 455 is only 60 lbs heavier than the 307.
That can be cancelled out as easily as running an aluminum intake and losing the a/c.
With the mods I've done, my 442 is lighter with the 455 than it was when it rolled off the assembly line.
84clonewars said:
Ha Ha Ha, funny cause I get home, check some interwebz stuff, see this, imeadiatly hit up the CL and bam!!! http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/2712709353.html I need to go sell something, I want this one bad!!!
Blake442 said:
I have to admit that's interesting but not as interesting as a LS swap considering with a rebuild of a bbo or sbo its pretty much the same price as a complete ls swap, so many directions which way shall I travel hmmm
gto nate said:
exactly I'm looking at a 5.3 no ecu or wiring for 400$, if I get that and the carb kit I'm just over a 1k, I should be able to do the fuel pump, cam, oil pan, and mounts for under a 1k easy. Then just worry abt exhaust, trans and crossmember in the new yr way too many options this sucks I need to pick a lane like now.
She is still a special Olds. I would have to do an Olds 455 to honor her heritage so to speak. I would do it with a built 200-4R like Olds put in, an inexpensive higher stall lock up converter, moderate cam, and Q-jet for maximum streetability & reliability. Like these guys;
http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1381227/1 ... ss-supreme
Bob ran a best of 12.3 at 110 on pump premium drag radials through full exhaust still dialing her in when it was stolen, just like he drove it and got 15 mpg hwy. Bob would drive it out of state to races and car shows. No need to buy a truck and trailer.
Dwight also runs 12.30s at 110 mph on pump premium with drag radials through high flow exhaust and has gotten 20 mpg hwy! Notice current plates its daily driver capable. He later ran a 12.0 at 112 mph on slicks with a real mild cam. With a more aggressive but still very streetable cam he could do 11.50s say 115+ for sure.
On my own 87 442 I used a Cadillac 500 with an http://www.extremeautomatics.com built 200-4R, an inexpensive working lock up converter, moderate cam, and 800cfm Q-jet. It ran a 12.5 at 110 mph on pump premium without ever being track tuned. I got a best of 17.0 hwy but naturally big blocks will eat fuel when hot rodding it stock light to stop light. Big blocks and drag radials are so much fun on the street because you don't have to wind em up first they jump when you tap that thottle because they make great torque in your cruise rpm range. Plus no need for spray, sky high compression, radical cams, big stall converters, or un-highway friendly 4 series gears like it takes to make make little motors go with a bigger car.
IMO if you are sticking to say a high 11 or slower reliable real street car. A big block gbody car can be built to go fast again reliably at a pretty good bang for the buck because you don't need aftermarket heads, all light high end forged everything plus bullet proof valvetrain and the crutch parts mentioned above to make her live.
Click my photos button to see mine.
http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1381227/1 ... ss-supreme
Bob ran a best of 12.3 at 110 on pump premium drag radials through full exhaust still dialing her in when it was stolen, just like he drove it and got 15 mpg hwy. Bob would drive it out of state to races and car shows. No need to buy a truck and trailer.
Dwight also runs 12.30s at 110 mph on pump premium with drag radials through high flow exhaust and has gotten 20 mpg hwy! Notice current plates its daily driver capable. He later ran a 12.0 at 112 mph on slicks with a real mild cam. With a more aggressive but still very streetable cam he could do 11.50s say 115+ for sure.
On my own 87 442 I used a Cadillac 500 with an http://www.extremeautomatics.com built 200-4R, an inexpensive working lock up converter, moderate cam, and 800cfm Q-jet. It ran a 12.5 at 110 mph on pump premium without ever being track tuned. I got a best of 17.0 hwy but naturally big blocks will eat fuel when hot rodding it stock light to stop light. Big blocks and drag radials are so much fun on the street because you don't have to wind em up first they jump when you tap that thottle because they make great torque in your cruise rpm range. Plus no need for spray, sky high compression, radical cams, big stall converters, or un-highway friendly 4 series gears like it takes to make make little motors go with a bigger car.
IMO if you are sticking to say a high 11 or slower reliable real street car. A big block gbody car can be built to go fast again reliably at a pretty good bang for the buck because you don't need aftermarket heads, all light high end forged everything plus bullet proof valvetrain and the crutch parts mentioned above to make her live.
Click my photos button to see mine.
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