84 Hurst/Olds New Project

[dogsht]

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[84clonewars]

Great points Vern, but I went ahead and purchased a 5.3 LS Truck Motor, Im gonna go through it a lil bit, have the heads ported and polished, carb intake with the msd controller, edelbrock cam and my 600 AVS carb. I will gather all needed swap parts a piece here piece there type of deal. If all goes well I should be able to have it all ready to be installed by the end of January. I was really interested in keeping an OLDS motor in it but I want to be the first of my friends to have the LSX swap so I'm taking the plunge so to speak. Thanks to all who have shared any input.

 

[84clonewars]

Its been quite a while since an update. I've been super busy at work lately. So i decided not to put the 5.3 LS motor in my Hurst and I bought a "72" Olds 350 from a 88 yesterday (rebuilt4 yrs ago maybe), i bought a second engine stand, wheel dollies, misc cleaning supplies and things of that nature. I plan on running it pretty much the way it is and bolting my aluminum intake and avs carb on it. Im gonna order the hedman long tubes sometime this week(unless there are better option for around 200$)

 

[84clonewars]

So numbers say my motor is a 73 block with #8 heads, it does look pretty clean and it probably was rebuilt a few yrs back. I've been dis-assembling the block today and cleaning as much as i could. Gonna get back on it after dinner tonight. I've made sime big purchases today spent about 1300$ on various items as followed...
Summit Racing

Part # Item Box Status Price Qty Line Total
ACF-R46SZ SPARK PLUG Ready to Ship $1.95 8 $15.60
DHB-H99291 REAR BRAKE LINE Ready to Ship $8.95 1 $8.95
HDA-126 OIL COOLER HOSE Ready to Ship $39.95 1 $39.95
HDA-3651 FAN CONTROL Ready to Ship $45.95 1 $45.95
HED-58070 (CA) HEADER Ready to Ship $195.95 1 $195.95
MIL-34045 FREEZE PLUG KIT BRASS OLDS Ready to Ship $15.95 1 $15.95
RNM-1113-90-P WIRE LOOM Expected Arrival on
1/30/2012 $56.95 1 $56.95
SUM-820311 PROTORQUE STARTER OLDS/PONTIAC Ready to Ship $169.95 1 $169.95

Total Charges $562.20

AutoZone.com

All new gaskets, rotors, pads, brake lines(front & rear),brake cable, rear shoes and spring kit, oil pump and screen, temp sensor and u joint - $352.39

Local Autozone

parts cleaner, engine paint, oil change kit, anti freeze, various permatex products, new ground strap - $94.51

Ebay

Champion 3 Row Aluminum Radiator - $209.99

Total Spent today a whopping $1219.09 woohoo and there is still plenty more to buy, yay my wallet 🙁

 

[84clonewars]

Next up on the need to buy list are the following...

Deep Trans Pan, hi-flo water pump, 195 thermostat, new hoses, belts, wire set, basic tune up parts, 140 amp alt, autometer trans temp and oil temp, engine oil cooler, oil pressure switch, a few parts from Brian @gbodyparts, install parts that I already have like LT1 dual fans, trans cooler, stereo, speaker panels, carpet etc...

If you guys have a stock rear sway bar for sale im buying if the price is right.......

 

[olds307 and 403]

Can you tell what pistons are in it? If it is the big dish pistons, consider the #2 heads you have. Keeping it Olds, much easier and cooler.

 

[84clonewars]

From the naked eye the dish on the pistons didn't seem large so idk, its like less than an 1/8". But every thing from that Regal is gone now the only thing powertrain wise I could save were the carb and old performer intake. 😳 That fire hydrant didnt like my car so much

Can you tell what pistons are in it? If it is the big dish pistons, consider the #2 heads you have. Keeping it Olds, much easier and cooler.

 

[84clonewars]

Sweet some of my parts showed up today. Here they go guys.
Headers, Rubber Trans Line, Freeze Plug Kit, Mini Starter, Spark Plugs And Rear Brake Line

 

[dogsht]

If you want the capability of 20 mpg stick with; 200-4r, lock up torque converter, Q-jet, and a cam with 230 @ 50 or less duration. Bigger than stock valves with bowl work and a performance valve job along with adjustable vacuum advance for optimal timing adjustments/curve will give you the power you want without needing to over cam it. Real nice strong crisp driver. 8) Well strong driver is a relative term but for what most people would consider as a strong driver.

I don't know what parts you have for what compression or what fuel you want to run on ie 87, 93, but most people are too conservative with compression. Naturally it has to match your cam & fuel but in general more compression is more fuel burning efficiency ie both fuel economy and power. Detonation resistance should primarily be handled (when building an engine as I believe you plan to) with proper quench, cam selection, timing curve. Sorry to ramble you cool project going.

 

[84clonewars]

If you want the capability of 20 mpg stick with; 200-4r, lock up torque converter, Q-jet, and a cam with 230 @ 50 or less duration. Bigger than stock valves with bowl work and a performance valve job along with adjustable vacuum advance for optimal timing adjustments/curve will give you the power you want without needing to over cam it. Real nice strong crisp driver. 8) Well strong driver is a relative term but for what most people would consider as a strong driver.

I don't know what parts you have for what compression or what fuel you want to run on ie 87, 93, but most people are too conservative with compression. Naturally it has to match your cam & fuel but in general more compression is more fuel burning efficiency ie both fuel economy and power. Detonation resistance should primarily be handled (when building an engine as I believe you plan to) with proper quench, cam selection, timing curve. Sorry to ramble you cool project going.

Wow Vern you brought the thunder with knowledge right there thanks man. The cam kit I want is this one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-OLDSMO...es&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb8da8015#ht_3144wt_1029

Now I know with the #8 heads this will more than likely not work properly, correct? There is a guy in Milwaukee with a set of #5 but i have no idea of what they are worth so I dont know what to offer him. I'd have to buy them, have them machined and buy new parts for them which means $$$, no that big of a deal. But if I could get by with the #8 for a while that would be awesome(unlikely though from what I read). At this point I just wanna drive the damn car lol I could care less about 20mpg, if I got 14mpg on the street I'd be happy. I refuse to use anything below 89 Shell Oil. I will be running my EDL AVS 650 for the time being until I can get a quality qjet rebuilt. I dont want a world beater but I do want some natural power to spin those tiny 15" wheels, I plan to run the 200r4 til she blows, so in the mean time she just gets a filter and gasket.(the extra 2qt pan is on the way along with the rebuild during late spring) I just know that even though this motor was recently rebuilt I'm sure I wont be happy with the perf factor even with my rpm intake, 1 3/4" headers, 3.73 gears(no posi).