You have more guts than I do. That Scout is pretty cool. I thought Good Guys was next week end? Darn. Hope you got out of there before the rain.
BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
Seems like a lot of updates lately but the car is finally getting to the point where it's a serious daily driver.
Coming back from the goodguys show Saturday there was a huge storm. Was planning to camp in town Saturday night but about 5 inches into the rainfall total we decided to bail on that and drive the 130 miles home. Was at the center of the 10" area.
So, ended up trying to dodge the puddles and get outta town. Didn't want to sleep in the car.
Worse thing was I found my rear window leaked. Not a drip, like a steady stream. Spend most of the day yesterday pulling the rear seat out and drying the carpet. There was around a gallon of water at minimum back there. Not sure if the window seal finally opened from the autocross or what, but its the first time I drove the car through a serious rainfall.
On a more positive note- Got my cruise working! Super easy with DBW like I have. I had hooked it up about a year ago but never could get it to turn on. Probed my wires and it should have worked, but didn't. Ended up missing 1 wire and had incorrect resistance on 1 wire. It takes 6 wires. 3 for the cruise, 1 TCC lockup, 1 brake light signal (that needs to see resistance) and a ground. Did some reading and found the ECM requires a "not in park" ground signal on pin 32 blue to work. Would be fine if I had a 60e or 80e, need it for anything else.
Also, the light blue 3rd brake light wire that is claimed to be able to just be spliced in to the brake light wiring that sees 12V when the brakes are applied needs to see around 8 ohm. I only had 4 ohm and it would not turn on. I added a 4 ohm resistor and it worked. Had to ask my electrical engineering buddy to take a look at the wiring diagram off the 01 silverado to explain to me the logic of how it worked and where I could put the resistor. I will have to make a diagram of it sometime and make a how to. Took about 20 different internet links to find what it needs. Should apply to 99-07 DBC or DBW ls stuff.
Coming back from the goodguys show Saturday there was a huge storm. Was planning to camp in town Saturday night but about 5 inches into the rainfall total we decided to bail on that and drive the 130 miles home. Was at the center of the 10" area.
So, ended up trying to dodge the puddles and get outta town. Didn't want to sleep in the car.
Worse thing was I found my rear window leaked. Not a drip, like a steady stream. Spend most of the day yesterday pulling the rear seat out and drying the carpet. There was around a gallon of water at minimum back there. Not sure if the window seal finally opened from the autocross or what, but its the first time I drove the car through a serious rainfall.
On a more positive note- Got my cruise working! Super easy with DBW like I have. I had hooked it up about a year ago but never could get it to turn on. Probed my wires and it should have worked, but didn't. Ended up missing 1 wire and had incorrect resistance on 1 wire. It takes 6 wires. 3 for the cruise, 1 TCC lockup, 1 brake light signal (that needs to see resistance) and a ground. Did some reading and found the ECM requires a "not in park" ground signal on pin 32 blue to work. Would be fine if I had a 60e or 80e, need it for anything else.
Also, the light blue 3rd brake light wire that is claimed to be able to just be spliced in to the brake light wiring that sees 12V when the brakes are applied needs to see around 8 ohm. I only had 4 ohm and it would not turn on. I added a 4 ohm resistor and it worked. Had to ask my electrical engineering buddy to take a look at the wiring diagram off the 01 silverado to explain to me the logic of how it worked and where I could put the resistor. I will have to make a diagram of it sometime and make a how to. Took about 20 different internet links to find what it needs. Should apply to 99-07 DBC or DBW ls stuff.
I guess I got lucky on my cruise, then. It worked right off the bat, but I used the 4th gen F-body brake switch not the G.
Well I put 1000 miles on the car in the last week and 500 the week before that. As of yet no issues. Might need to take a look at strengthening my master cylinder, i have a tough time fully disengaging the clutch when it's hot. Doesnt like going into 1st from a stop and sometimes reverse.
Didn't overheat in the 90+ F weather, got 20.5mpg going 77 and being stuck in traffic for about an hr.
That being said, the car is HOT inside. I need to wrap the headers or insulate the floor because it PUMPS heat off the carpet. Like bare feet on the carpet uncomfortable hot. 90F outside going 65mph is barely sufficient to stay cool enough to be slightly comfortable. Suspension is firm but forgiving, exhaust is quiet, and cruise is awesome, but 20k BTU straight off the floor is BAD lol.
I ordered a summit electric speedometer last night, along with the beginning parts for my AC. Pumps in, just need to do lines and belt routing.
Obligatory dual G body photo. Was back in MN for the 4th and moved the cutlass from one storage spot to another. Poor car, never get to drive it with my project ADHD 🙁
Didn't overheat in the 90+ F weather, got 20.5mpg going 77 and being stuck in traffic for about an hr.
That being said, the car is HOT inside. I need to wrap the headers or insulate the floor because it PUMPS heat off the carpet. Like bare feet on the carpet uncomfortable hot. 90F outside going 65mph is barely sufficient to stay cool enough to be slightly comfortable. Suspension is firm but forgiving, exhaust is quiet, and cruise is awesome, but 20k BTU straight off the floor is BAD lol.
I ordered a summit electric speedometer last night, along with the beginning parts for my AC. Pumps in, just need to do lines and belt routing.
Obligatory dual G body photo. Was back in MN for the 4th and moved the cutlass from one storage spot to another. Poor car, never get to drive it with my project ADHD 🙁
You might want to look into something else for the heat first. Do you have a vacuum valve on the heater core hose? I thought I had the same issue then realized most, if not all, of the heat was actual from the heater even though it was "off" I don't have a heater valve and need to put one one.
Worked on changing the lower control arm bushings to poly Sunday night and finished it up last night. Also got the electric speedometer I bought hooked up but it reads 10 times too fast so i gotta look into getting hptuners to talk the right output. 11mph on my hptuners scanner is 100mph on the gage.
Good news is although not 100% gone, the wheelhop is 80% gone I would say. Pressed out the old ones they were in tough shape. The axle side was a lot worse in cracks than the frame side.
I guess from here on i will put poly in the lowers first thing and see if that helps. I found overall boxing the lowers didnt do anything, adjustable uppers maybe did something, but most of the improvement was just the lowers. That kinda aligns with what I got on my 4th gen (new shocks, 3" LCA drop brackets, and poly bushings). I bet when I lower the car after I put an oil pan that doesnt hang 3" below the crossmember and the rear goes 2" lower or so it will hop again and I will need to move my control arm pickup points down on the rear lower control arm axle side, but for now its OK.
Good news is although not 100% gone, the wheelhop is 80% gone I would say. Pressed out the old ones they were in tough shape. The axle side was a lot worse in cracks than the frame side.
I guess from here on i will put poly in the lowers first thing and see if that helps. I found overall boxing the lowers didnt do anything, adjustable uppers maybe did something, but most of the improvement was just the lowers. That kinda aligns with what I got on my 4th gen (new shocks, 3" LCA drop brackets, and poly bushings). I bet when I lower the car after I put an oil pan that doesnt hang 3" below the crossmember and the rear goes 2" lower or so it will hop again and I will need to move my control arm pickup points down on the rear lower control arm axle side, but for now its OK.
The Gear & Tire Wizard in HPT will hook you up assuming it's a GM cluster speedo. Aftermarkets usually program over a set distance counting VSS pulses.
So it turned out I was a moron and got it fixed real quick last night.
There is a ABS output wire thats 128k pulse/mile and the speedometer output thats 4000 pulse per mile. I planned ahead last summer when I cleaned my harness and did my cruise wiring and smartly pre-pinned the wire in my connectors. Well, I totally forgot that and somehow mis-read lt1swap and thought the speedometer needed the abs wire that I hadn't pinned. Just had to move the wire in the harness and program the PCM to output 16k pulse per mile for what the speedometer needs and it worked!
In other news, had the welder out to put another 02 bung in. I have been running open loop speed density so no self tuning correction. Bought a set of o2's and wired those up but I had my wideband in the bung on the header so i put another bung in the system. Be interested to see how my fuel mileage changes when I have the tune a bit more dialed in.
Also welded up the reinforcement rod going from my clutch pedal to the clutch master. I had the parts in place I just had to glue them together 🙂 Clutch is WAY more positive now, felt like I had a baloon under my foot before where half the throw was just taking the slop out. Not its a lot more firm and the clutch fully disengages in the first 2" of pedal movement. Was like pedal to the floor to disengage before. Should have done that a LONG time ago.
There is a ABS output wire thats 128k pulse/mile and the speedometer output thats 4000 pulse per mile. I planned ahead last summer when I cleaned my harness and did my cruise wiring and smartly pre-pinned the wire in my connectors. Well, I totally forgot that and somehow mis-read lt1swap and thought the speedometer needed the abs wire that I hadn't pinned. Just had to move the wire in the harness and program the PCM to output 16k pulse per mile for what the speedometer needs and it worked!
In other news, had the welder out to put another 02 bung in. I have been running open loop speed density so no self tuning correction. Bought a set of o2's and wired those up but I had my wideband in the bung on the header so i put another bung in the system. Be interested to see how my fuel mileage changes when I have the tune a bit more dialed in.
Also welded up the reinforcement rod going from my clutch pedal to the clutch master. I had the parts in place I just had to glue them together 🙂 Clutch is WAY more positive now, felt like I had a baloon under my foot before where half the throw was just taking the slop out. Not its a lot more firm and the clutch fully disengages in the first 2" of pedal movement. Was like pedal to the floor to disengage before. Should have done that a LONG time ago.
