BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

[81cutlass]

Diddly squat interior update #92- the prequal to the sequal before the finale.

Grabbed some 1/8 rivets from the hardware store, fastened the trim, cleaned off the wheel and button and installed it back on the car.

Now I just need to recover my sun visors and sew up a shift boot!

 

[81cutlass]

Citing the imortal Red Green

I'm a man
And I can admit a mistake
If I have to
I guess

Charged the ac system Saturday and it wasn't blowing cold. Evaporator after the orifice tube was freezing up but the drier was still hot. Gave up and shut it off and found my leak. The crimp at the drier suction line was leaking.

I looked through the 4 seasons ac catalog and realized my problem. I ordered reduced OD burgeflex ac hose. It doesn't work with normal ac crimp fittings and I can't buy the reduced OD compatible fittings.

So I have to order the correct hose and all new fittings. The fittings amount to maybe $20 but the hose is another $100 so that's not overly expensive in terms of mistakes and easy to fix but still kinda sucks.

Ya win some and you loose some when you plan the internet shopping game!!

 

[Streetbu]

Happens to the best of us! Don't beat yourself up

 

[motorheadmike]

Dur, never mind. I forgot to check LT1 swap. Yep, thats easy.

View attachment 150306

Yeah, that's what I used... sorry, got distracted.

 

[81cutlass]

I've been relying on the dude at cruise night to take better photos of my car than I've ever done.

Saturday night wasn't as packed as it has been but there was still like 1000+ pictures to scroll through to find the 2+2.

Somebody in a convertible Miata hid behind me and looks like he's riding passenger.

Car is still a 20fter minus the obvious mismatched fender respray lol.

 

[81cutlass]

Ac lines take 2

Actually only ordered 1 of the same fittings as last time. Changed the other 3 up to improve routing.

The straight fitting into the condenser got replaced with one that had a r134 port on it and the 90 going into the compressor changed to one without a fitting, that way I don't need a r12 to r134 adapter and high side pressure is easy to get to.

Also replaced the 90 suction side in the compressor with a 45 and routed the line differently and took 12" of hose out of the system.

I'm happier with the routing and the crimp quality is much better than with the reduced OD hose I ordered wrong last time.

Here's hoping it doesn't leak!!!

 

[81cutlass]

Well I ordered another flex sensor off RA. Here's hoping this one works.

I tried getting a replacement through Pace Performance a while ago, but they needed the VIN for warranty work, the mileage, and all that jazz and were tough to get a solid answer from since I ordered it in February and it was months before I got to the project. The $50 new sensor wasn't worth the warranty paperwork and calling back and forth multiple times and delays when the new part will be here Monday.

I hooked up my battery charger directly to the sensor to eliminate any chassis noise and checked for frequency output from the signal wire to the ground on the battery charger and had 0hz. I had 160hz flashing to 120hz between signal and power on the sensor but the battery charger generated 120hz signal so it might have been from that.

I historically don't shotgun parts at issues but the sensor was yelling at me it's bad and I wasn't paying attention so I finally listened to it.

I also bought some new adjustable UCA's so I'll get those swapped next week and probably pull the driveshaft and bring it to the local driveline shop and get a new one made to try to chase down my driveline vibration.

Full speed ahead. Car needs to run 10.99's in 2 months and it ran 11.70 in '18 before it blew the axle. Hopefully there is 0.7 seconds in a good launch and some timing!

 

[81cutlass]

Fails- new flex sensor still doesn't work. I still get no frequency signal with the multimeter so either A) the multimeter is frying them, B) this one was dead too or C) the multimeter won't read frequency on this sensor. I am betting C. It seems straight forward to set up but I am failing hard. Still got a low frequency DTC in hptuners so it's not reading.

Wins- AC works great. I need to wire in a relay to trigger the electric fan when the AC is on, but honestly with it so hot the fan runs all the time anyways so I don't NEED it. Also need to fix a small issue in the tune where the PCM puts the engine into deceleration fuel cutoff mode when the clutch is depressed at low speed or I am coasting in neutral. I disabled the fuel side of things but never did the spark thing so it kinda studders at 400 rpm and it doesnt have the power to stay running with the compressor running so it does sometimes. The AC working however WAY overpowers those small things to do. 10/10 recommend. Will do again. I won't own a non AC car. Not worth it.

I had an exhaust tick noise and I ordered new GM MLS exhaust manifold gaskets hoping the set I had on were blown. Good news they were. They were the graphite crappy style I got when I ordered the long tubes. They went in super easy and got rid of the noise. Another small win.

Cruised the car 2 hours today through some curvy roads around lakes country with 2 of my high school buddies. One has a 5th gen SS camaro and the other one has a stick coyote 5.0 mustang. Grabbed a pizza and some beer at the best mexian/italian lake restaurant MN has to offer and drove the 2 hour trip back home.

 

[Texas82GP]

I won't own a non AC car. Not worth it.

It is the way. Edit: that's a nerdy Mandalorian reference that probably few will get. It means I agree completely. If it doesn't have A/C, I'm not interested in owning it, at least here in Houston.

 

[81cutlass]

Well the car is down for a week or two.

Pulled the driveshaft Tuesday and brought to the driveline shop to get a new one made. The shaft i have in it I bought off ebay for $60 when I first got the t56 in the car. It's a hodgepodge of a good sonnax 1350 slip yoke going into the ex nascar winston cup car 1330 driveshaft going back into 1350 rear input yoke. The shaft has always had a little vibration but its been getting worse and now that I have AC and can cruise with my windows up at highway speed, its really noticeable and makes a droning sound. Going to go to a 48.5" length to get a bit more tailshaft in the trans as it is 48" now. Driveshaft guy said once they start going out of balance they pull themself out of balance worse especially with the conversion 1330/1350 joints.

Hopefully he will get the shaft made next week. He said parts delivery have been TERRIBLE lately and stuff is randomly out of stock with all the plants being out from covid stuff a few months ago inventories havn't restocked.

I also got my set of adjustable UCA's in the mail early this week that I am going to work on getting in the car next week and out for an alignment.

It's OK though I can cruise the wagon 🙂