BUILD THREAD 86 GP 2+2~Blown 6.0

[64nailhead]

The TPI was the best thing GM ever did as far as I’m concerned until someone designed cathedral port heads with 220+ intake runners that outperform EVERYTHING. The TPI grocery getter performance is absolutely silly as compared to what our G’s were getting equipped with - and getting better mileage as well.

I think the 7.5 rear was just a product of a bean counter. Same as how an H-body came stick with a 6.5” rear for almost a decade.

Obviously, someone at GM put it together that Performance and durability was more valuable than saving $12 a car by using a weaker part. But they didn’t figure it out until the 21st Century.

81cutlass - are you going to get your car going before the end of the season?

 

[fleming442]

The only reason the G body had any "performance" models.is because if Nascar and their rules mandating production cars. IE, Monte SS and the 2+2

Yep, and now they have pony cars.

 

[81cutlass]

The TPI was the best thing GM ever did as far as I’m concerned until someone designed cathedral port heads with 220+ intake runners that outperform EVERYTHING. The TPI grocery getter performance is absolutely silly as compared to what our G’s were getting equipped with - and getting better mileage as well.

I think the 7.5 rear was just a product of a bean counter. Same as how an H-body came stick with a 6.5” rear for almost a decade.

Obviously, someone at GM put it together that Performance and durability was more valuable than saving $12 a car by using a weaker part. But they didn’t figure it out until the 21st Century.

81cutlass - are you going to get your car going before the end of the season?

No kidding on the TPI stuff. My cousin owned a TPI 350 l98 swapped 88 formula firebird as a cheap summer fun car probably 10 years ago. I was at the track and he ripped off like a 13.8 with a chipped ECM and a cat back, otherwise stock. I saw that and was like damn, too bad GM never introduced that in 84, I understand it wasn't worth developing for the MCSS in 87 when they made it into F bodies but GM really missed the boat there.

As far as will the car get going before the end of the season? I hope and plan to. I got my correct bearings Wednesday but am busy this weekend so probably going to be next weekend before I get time to put it back together. This fall has been warm but we got the first sign of winter today with some snow flakes so I'm a bit concerned I will get it ready and then salt will get spread down.

TBD. Tracks are all shut down now though so it's just street driving now.

 

[81cutlass]

Was planning to travel this weekend but had some stuff come up and was home today and put the rear together.

Bolted the ring gear on and pressed the bearings on.

Put the carrier in with the shims that were in it before and it was really tight and didn't fit. Dug through my shim box and found one that was 0.012" thinner and stuck it in. .015 backlash, ish.

Fiddled with different combos and ended up with .010" backlash so good enough.

I've gotten lucky in the past, this is the first diff I've needed to adjust shims when I swap carriers so it took another 2 hrs of fiddling.

Pulled the carrier out 10 times finding a good fit and man that trutrac is heavier than the Yukon clutch posi for sure.

Back on the ground and good to go again!

 

[81cutlass]

Good news, took the car for a short cruise.

With 35F iat's this thing rips. I've never street driven the car on the 'hot' e85 tune with this low of air temp and it feels like it's got a 50hp bonus.

Bad thing is 35F temps mean the summer tires just don't grip like they usually do and it blows the tires off with a slight tip in of the throttle. It doesn't have the DR's on so traction is usually moderately low but it's a different level of spin city.

 

[81cutlass]

Breaks car in late September
Fixes car in mid October
Lives in Minnesnowta
Plans to drive car until Thanksgiving then put in storage for winter
3 days after fixing car. Eff.

 

[Turbo Zach]

Breaks car in late September
Fixes car in mid October
Lives in Minnesnowta
Plans to drive car until Thanksgiving then put in storage for winter
3 days after fixing car. Eff. View attachment 160003

Jacob came from here yesterday and said they got 7 inches. We got about a inch and was gone by 2:00. You need to move further east. Either way I think driving our classic car days are done.😢

 

[81cutlass]

Well kinda at a stuck point of what do I do next. I thrashed to get the car put back on the road but it snowed 3 days later and the DOT decided to make a salty margarita out of the roads so basically done for the year unless it gets above 40 and we get a good shot of rain. Had planned to drive it until Thanksgiving and then put it in storage and work on other stuff over the winter but now I lost 1 month of driving and added a month of time to work.

Planned to put the 15x10 pontiac rally wheel vintique wheels on the rear this winter and notch the frame as needed, but Summit only has one in stock and they are on backorder until January.

I'd like to pull the trans and put a steel bellhousing in but Quick Time gets $750 effing dollars for a bellhousing. I might wait to see if that goes on sale on Holley Days.

Plan to put adjustable shocks on it (probably viking) but that's an expensive project and only takes an hour so that can happen in the spring.

Really the only thing I want/can do is put in some aftercooler temperature sensors in and figure out a clutch pressure and fuel pressure transducer reading through the PCM.

Of course there is always paint the thing...

 

[fleming442]

How about bootlegging a hit-tamer setup for us? If I get the Olds back in tact within reasonable cost, I'd buy one.

 

[81cutlass]

How about bootlegging a hit-tamer setup for us? If I get the Olds back in tact within reasonable cost, I'd buy one.

You got me.

I already have it half concepted in my mind. I like his idea but not 100% a fan of some of the components and think there is a big improvement for the timer & user interface system.

I 100% think this system needs a clutch pressure sensor and display to actually see what the clutch line pressure is doing. I don't see much success by just turning the valve until it works. I want to know how many seconds it takes to fully clamp the clutch. For me with EFI i have a computer display but for you without an input, you really need a display so you can see how fast the clutch is coupling (compare 0.2 second or 0.7 seconds to whatever setting on the valve) which this system doesn't have. 10 years ago this was hard but not it's doable with hobby electronics. That way if you bog the launch with a known 0.2s clamp time, you can turn the dial on the valve a bit and test in the staging lanes by just releasing the clutch when the car is in neutral and see how much dial adjustment gets a desired clutch apply time. Then long term if you are at a sticky track you know 0.2 second release time will spin, 0.5s will bog, and 0.7s will work well. Then if you go to a greasy track where it always spins, it takes 0.9 seconds for it to not spin, or spin moderately.

Basically I need a 2 position, 2 way, normally open, 12V solenoid controlled poppet valve that is controlled by some type of proximity switch to 1st gear to turn the system on or off. If the valve is normally open (not active) flow goes from the master directly to the TOB and bypasses the control valve (literally just a needle valve). Having a switch that is closed when the shifter is in 1st gear that interfaces with the shifter somehow would be ideal, that way you would not need to do any timers or switches to activate the system like they use to deactivate the system for 2nd gear. There also needs to be a check valve in the master cylinder to TOB line so when you push the clutch down the needle valve never has an effect regardless the valve position.

If the switch is active (in 1st gear) flow is routed through the needle valve, (what they call the 1st stage control valve). Theirs looks pretty but could be easily done with a simple smaller valve.

Basically launch procedure would be pull into the beams, shift to neutral with the clutch pedal released, flip an 'arm' switch on the dash to active the system, push the clutch pedal down which puts pressure in the TOB, put the trans in 1st which would close the activate button and reroute clutch flow through the valve and through the control or needle valve, side step the clutch (dialing in the bleed off rate for the track), push clutch and shift to second, shifter is now out of 1st gear so the system is deactivated and all other shifts are non dampened.

Model SV10A2NC4P43 Solenoid Valve

The Circle Seal model SV10A2NC4P43 solenoid valve is constructed in Aluminum with Nylatron seat(s) and Buna-N seals, and has a 24/28 VDC coil.

fluidprocess.com